CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[uncletom]

Oh yes. I also noticed, by the first digits in the phone number, that the company is, or at least was, located in Helsingborg. A small swedish town where I spent most of my time growing up.

Well. It looks as I will be disassembling the hole thing piece by piece, first determining the voltage outputs from the PSU. I'll take it from there. My guess is I'll be needing to replace every electrolyte cap in there to start with.

Anybody here serviced a projector like this one? Any of you guys ever serviced a projector PSU? I've never even seen one.

And, as a side question, is there a CRT projector made weighing less than 40 kg that can be handled by one person? Please advise.

[AnalogRocks]

Might be bad caps but start with the fuse. The smallest CRT was a DWIN

[AnalogRocks]

Might be bad caps but start with the fuse. The smallest CRT was a DWIN

[uncletom]

Thanks. I guess for my purposes the DWIN 500 would be best. Weight is 29 kg, great! And 28-65 kHz H-frequency is awesome.

hmm.. Now I want a DWIN 500.

What would one cost today?

The DWIN seems much simpler in its internal design, easier to fix and maintain.

[Curt Palme]

No, you don't want a 500. Despite being EM focusing tubes, they are very soft. you want the later DWIN 700. Should be had for $100-200 on ebay, but they are 110 volts only, so you need a stepdown transformer. I have a couple of near mint ones with no tube wear for $500, but I also have brand new tubes in the box, that I'd retube a set for $800 with all new tubes.

[Curt Palme]

No, you don't want a 500. Despite being EM focusing tubes, they are very soft. you want the later DWIN 700. Should be had for $100-200 on ebay, but they are 110 volts only, so you need a stepdown transformer. I have a couple of near mint ones with no tube wear for $500, but I also have brand new tubes in the box, that I'd retube a set for $800 with all new tubes.

[uncletom]

I understand. Thanks Curt.

Well, I was looking at the input frequencies, the 700 has from 30kHz and up, the 500 had 15 kHz scan rate which is what I'm using mostly. 25kHz at some times, and also 31kHz.

Would you please care to explain the "soft" picture of the 500?

[CasetheCorvetteman]

Yeah its not real sharp, as in beam focus is not as good as other machines, and the image is not razor sharp.

[uncletom]

Oh that. Thanks.

I am very grateful for your consideration for image quality, and in particular the sharpness. However, my demands for higher resolutions stop about the 31kHz limit, any additional sharpness would be surplus to me. I understand that most of you use your projectors for home cinema and HD movies. But my speciality is focused on systems that display low-res, like 15-31 khz. I have very few systems that output higher resolutions that this.

Should I be worried about sufficient sharpness while displaying a 15kHz image?
What about the Lumen/brightness of the DWIN 500?
Ok, just checked and my Sony here has 650, the DWIN has 1100. I guess higher is better?

[CasetheCorvetteman]

No, youre missing the point here.

Just cause its a lower rez does not mean you dont need the sharpness.

Look here:


That is a close up, razor sharp, pretty near as good as it gets, in 15.7kHz 240p. You could cut your arm off with that sharpness.

You wont get anything like that from a machine that is soft, itll look abit blured.

[uncletom]

Hahah.. You could use these scan lines as a bookshelf! Or at least they will fit a complete smurf collection.

I totally understand. But do you really want that well defined scan lines? Wouldn't it be easier on the eyes watching a somewhat smoother picture? Ofcourse it also depends on the size of the picture, but let's say for argument that we'd like a 70" image on a white wall, playing let's say the classic game Out Run from 1987. It is a 240p at 15 Khz.

I mean even though CRT monitors are basically gone from the amusement market today, many of the gamers and fans of old school arcades want scan lines. On PC you can even emulate the CRT's raster with all the classic arcade games.

I once bought a nice 29" monitor from SEGA, the japanese brand Nanao modell MS-2931. It can take from 15-31 khz input which made it a "tri-synk monitor". Most games then were 15-25 or 31 khz. But the 15 khz mode was so sharp it really cut my eyes. Playing low-res games on that 29" screen was not possible for very long due to it causing splitting headaches.

That's why, since then, I always say that for 15k games a 20" CRT monitor is optimal. Many gamers who bought these japanese game cabinets equipped with 29" nanaos still play many 15k games. I guess it takes getting used to.

So why do I need a projector?
That's thing; I don't. But I'm kind of stuck with this one here. Fate or not, now I'm curious how some of my favourite games would play on such a big screen, and coolest of all - it is CRT.

[CasetheCorvetteman]

That is a genuine NEO-GEO home console that created that image you see above, and yep, you do want that sharpness

It is super smooth and very nice to look at and play on. No headaches here unless youre drinking cheap alcohol. Screen size from the above image is 125", but that was take pretty close up. See below for some others shots.

I fitted an MS-29 I rebuilt to a CPS2 cab for a guy a couple months ago ( along with some new 30mm Seimitsu buttons and brand new Rotterdam made SUZO sticks ), HUGE step up from the Kortek, razor sharp and super smooth. But not as sharp as an XG

Obvious what game it is, 576i, Sega Saturn RGB:


Point Blank on the PS1, 288p, RGB

[uncletom]

You have a really nice setup there. I see that you're a gamer as well. Using you projector in low-res?

What projector do you have? "XG" ? Weight?

CRT projectors work with light-guns?

Well, if you're standing a fair distance away from your screen then ofcourse any super sharp scan lines will not bother you that much. When interlacing you instantly have double resolution, somewhat flickering if noticed, but since it's CRT it's also phosphor which has a cartain afterglow.

[CasetheCorvetteman]

There is no noticable flicker at 50 or 60Hz for me.

NEC XG is around 65kg. The Namco lightguns work perfectly with it as well as a few other projectors ive used them on.

Im sitting 4 meters back from the screen.

[Curt Palme]

[Curt Palme]

[uncletom]

I was thinking about the line doubler. But I use exclusively RGB inputs. And another thing that worries me slightly is will there be any lag when using a line doubler? I've hear some bad things about modern scalers and LCD-monitor adapters from china.

Typically my game systems/PCBs output RGB TTL level signals, and a negative composite sync. Reading the specs about the RGB input of CRT-projectors it is usually 0,7Vpp RGB, which means I need to dampen my RGB some with resistors.

Later tonight I hope to open my Sony again to clean and have a good look at the PSU. I supposed I should try to fix it, but in any case I will not be keeping it. It is such a heavy beast, I just don't know where to install it!? My ceiling is only 2,45 meters high. I mean, the thing is like a small boat.

[CasetheCorvetteman]

All arcade boards work fine on RGB, run the RGB lines through a 220 ohm resistor, connect sync directly.

I used quite alot of arcade boards here.

Forget the bloody line doubler, real gamers dont use those.

[AnalogRocks]

[AnalogRocks]

[uncletom]

Thanks, Case. 220 Ohms will be perfect.

Rocks, and once in a while when I switch it on, a cloud of dust will create the perfect setting for The Road Warrior.

I think there are at least 5 fans in there.

[uncletom]

As it seems that my 1251 has been tampered with some, I'd like to please ask Curt if there's a "BA" board available as spare part, and how much such a board would be today.

It's one of the insert-PCBs at the rear left side just above the video and audio inputs. That one seems to have been patched around quite a bit. I don't know if it is repair work or some factory final mod.

[CasetheCorvetteman]

Thats not uncommon really, parts glued onto the board with jumper wires running all over the backs of them, ive got a few NEC boards here like that.

Ive never tried any other value, i figured on 220 ohm and when i tested it, i was very happy with the result ( ive done a few NEO MVS, NEO Hyper 64, Konami Lethal Enforcers, and Capcom CPS2 ). I usually use a 470uF capacitor and a 75 ohm resistor in a home console if theyre not there allready, some seem to have used other values, or just left them out altogether...

[uncletom]

Well, unless the brighter colors bleed you're ok, some systems output a stronger RGB so they need higher value resistors when connecting to a TV or a projector like this. I use to check with an RGB color scale, I think the neo geo should have good test screens for it.