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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G
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| Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 2:00 pm Post subject: |
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| CasetheCorvetteman wrote: | Computers are easy, its a 5 minute job, i want to see this 10PG up and running by the end of next week  |
You need a new handle: CasetheBallBuster 
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Tech support for nothing
CRT.
HD done right!
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gjaky
Joined: 05 Jun 2010
Posts: 2802
Location: Budapest, Hungary
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| Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 2:46 pm Post subject: |
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Oh, I don't know if I will be the 'bad' guy, but there 'ya go, here is a definitive troubleshooting chart for PG plain, and PG+ projectors, one should tap where arrows pointing with an oscilloscope and can follow the signal path, so it would be easy to find out where is the signal lost.
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projectors in the past : NEC 6-9PG xtra, Electrohome Marquee 6-7500, NEC XG 1351 LC ( with super modified Electrohome VNB neckboard !!!)
current: VDC Marquee 9500LC
The MOD: VNB-DB, VIM-DB
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 3:12 pm Post subject: |
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| CasetheCorvetteman wrote: | | Computers are easy, its a 5 minute job, i want to see this 10PG up and running by the end of next week |
I will have to get a replacement gain board from curt so I don't how long that will take
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crt king of black
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 8:19 pm Post subject: |
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| CasetheCorvetteman wrote: | | Computers are easy, its a 5 minute job, i want to see this 10PG up and running by the end of next week |
Case I emailed curt and he said he was going to part out some or pg sets this weekend but I don't know when I will get the board afterwards
I asked for both a gain board and a output board(green tube shows the raster when muted but the no video problem is the gain board)
I have been thinking of getting an Xg if the pg ever fully dies(as in a part curt may not have)
I am going to have to set a memory for 4:3 as I have one for 16:9 and the video/s video inputs)
I am going to try both my marquee and nec side by side once I convert it over to 9inch tubes and see for myself which can really out do the other(I have room to have multiple setups if I wanted)
I am going to leave my marquee where its at and do a separate screen for the pg so I don't have to worry about moving both sets around and don't get dropped by accident during moving and damage the tubes in the set(suckers heavy as f*ck)
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crt king of black
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 12:14 am Post subject: |
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| AnalogRocks wrote: | | CasetheCorvetteman wrote: | | Computers are easy, its a 5 minute job, i want to see this 10PG up and running by the end of next week |
You need a new handle: CasetheBallBuster |
Hahahaha!!!
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 12:16 am Post subject: |
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| AnalogRocks wrote: | | CasetheCorvetteman wrote: | | Computers are easy, its a 5 minute job, i want to see this 10PG up and running by the end of next week |
You need a new handle: CasetheBallBuster |
I second that sheesh
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 12:18 am Post subject: |
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| gjaky wrote: | | Oh, I don't know if I will be the 'bad' guy, but there 'ya go, here is a definitive troubleshooting chart for PG plain, and PG+ projectors, one should tap where arrows pointing with an oscilloscope and can follow the signal path, so it would be easy to find out where is the signal lost. |
One problem I don't have a o scope so the charts won't do me no good thanks for them though
I have a service manual for my Ecp and there is certain things I can't check due to not haveing a o scope 
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 12:21 am Post subject: |
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Update I am finely getting part of tinmans fan mod done(power supply fans) then I will see if I need to slow the other fans in the set
Makes me wish every company made they're machine like dwin did quiet with a minimalist approach on the fans
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 12:22 am Post subject: |
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Update I am finely getting part of tinmans fan mod done(power supply fans) then I will see if I need to slow the other fans in the set
Makes me wish every company made they're machine like dwin did quiet with a minimalist approach on the fans
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 3:14 am Post subject: |
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What are you doing posting such long posts here when you could be fixing that 10PG??
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 3:16 am Post subject: |
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| CasetheCorvetteman wrote: | | What are you doing posting such long posts here when you could be fixing that 10PG?? |
I check and update on my iPhone as I do the work case
Plus I already done the fan mod to the power supply(the thing was heck to work with) but that's all I can do for now till I get the replacement board from curt unless tinman cares to post the resititors he used to slow the other fans in the set as I can still get stuff like that at my local radio shack
Don't worry about me case I will post a pic of the set working once its fixed
Sucks that I will get it fixed before I can get my second screen up(not sure if I am going to have it a large as the one I have now or not)
Right now I am done with it for now till I get the board from curt(hopefully he has one that works)
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Tinman
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1326
Location: Carson City Nevada
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| Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 5:25 pm Post subject: |
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I don't recall what value Resistor I used. I just cut the red wire and tried a few out of my resistor kit until I was satisfied. There already IS a dropping resistor on the main board, but I wasn't going to take the entire cage out again. Plus wiring one in-line makes it much simpler to change or undo later.
Try a 33ohm to start with. You only want to slow them down enough to take the "noise" down. You can't make it silent.
Picture wise I think the PG10 will beat any un-modded Marquee. The NEC's color corrected optics are the reason for this. The 9" Marquee has to be corrected to hit SMPTE-C specs. Go find colored C-elements and it won't matter.
BTW, there is a simple way to correct the "raster" in pic mute on the PG10, but get it running right first WITHOUT changing the V-out board and pm me.
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 6:10 pm Post subject: |
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| Tinman wrote: | I don't recall what value Resistor I used. I just cut the red wire and tried a few out of my resistor kit until I was satisfied. There already IS a dropping resistor on the main board, but I wasn't going to take the entire cage out again. Plus wiring one in-line makes it much simpler to change or undo later.
Try a 33ohm to start with. You only want to slow them down enough to take the "noise" down. You can't make it silent.
Picture wise I think the PG10 will beat any un-modded Marquee. The NEC's color corrected optics are the reason for this. The 9" Marquee has to be corrected to hit SMPTE-C specs. Go find colored C-elements and it won't matter.
BTW, there is a simple way to correct the "raster" in pic mute on the PG10, but get it running right first WITHOUT changing the V-out board and pm me. |
Ok I will try a 33ohm first and see if it makes it slient enough to make me happy
I haven't swapped out the video out board and it just started the raster on picture mute(its wierd)
As soon as I get the replacement gain board from curt I will update(hopefully he has one that works)
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Tinman
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1326
Location: Carson City Nevada
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| Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 11:57 pm Post subject: |
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You want to try and avoid swapping the V-out board because all the alignments for THAT set of CRT's is with IT. I've never seen a bad gain board, so I'm very curious how this will play out. But if that's it and everything works, then I'll give you some pointers on getting the tubes back into alignment.
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 12:04 am Post subject: |
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| Tinman wrote: | | You want to try and avoid swapping the V-out board because all the alignments for THAT set of CRT's is with IT. I've never seen a bad gain board, so I'm very curious how this will play out. But if that's it and everything works, then I'll give you some pointers on getting the tubes back into alignment. |
Great now I am sure its the gain board for sure but I don't have a different output board as the spare I got was damaged in shipping
It sucks to have stuff get damaged in shipping or my pg would be working
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Tinman
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1326
Location: Carson City Nevada
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| Posted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 2:24 am Post subject: |
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So you DID try swapping the coax cables ON the gain board? Not on the V-out? Did you also try swapping the coax INPUT cables TO the gain board?
I never fully understood if you did both, to eliminate the V-out board itself and test the cables from the front jacks TO the gain board. The connectors suck ass for lack of a better word. It's REALLY easy to bend or break off the center pin of the cables when pushing them back into their tiny little sockets. This has been an issue far more often than a bad board. I'd just like to be SURE you aren't running down the wrong path, get a board and the same thing happens because of a bent or broken center conductor.
Marc
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 2:27 am Post subject: |
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| Tinman wrote: | So you DID try swapping the coax cables ON the gain board? Not on the V-out? Did you also try swapping the coax INPUT cables TO the gain board?
I never fully understood if you did both, to eliminate the V-out board itself and test the cables from the front jacks TO the gain board. The connectors suck ass for lack of a better word. It's REALLY easy to bend or break off the center pin of the cables when pushing them back into their tiny little sockets. This has been an issue far more often than a bad board. I'd just like to be SURE you aren't running down the wrong path, get a board and the same thing happens because of a bent or broken center conductor.
Marc |
I didn't swap around the inputs connections on the gain board just the output connections from the gain board to the output board
I can try swapping around the connections on the input side of the gain board and see what happens if you want me to
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Tinman
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1326
Location: Carson City Nevada
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| Posted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 4:54 pm Post subject: |
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| the big E wrote: | | Tinman wrote: | So you DID try swapping the coax cables ON the gain board? Not on the V-out? Did you also try swapping the coax INPUT cables TO the gain board?
I never fully understood if you did both, to eliminate the V-out board itself and test the cables from the front jacks TO the gain board. The connectors suck ass for lack of a better word. It's REALLY easy to bend or break off the center pin of the cables when pushing them back into their tiny little sockets. This has been an issue far more often than a bad board. I'd just like to be SURE you aren't running down the wrong path, get a board and the same thing happens because of a bent or broken center conductor.
Marc |
I didn't swap around the inputs connections on the gain board just the output connections from the gain board to the output board
I can try swapping around the connections on the input side of the gain board and see what happens if you want me to |
Yes I do. Make sure it's not a cable all along. Pay close attention to the connections themselves.
Marc
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 5:03 pm Post subject: |
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| Tinman wrote: | | the big E wrote: | | Tinman wrote: | So you DID try swapping the coax cables ON the gain board? Not on the V-out? Did you also try swapping the coax INPUT cables TO the gain board?
I never fully understood if you did both, to eliminate the V-out board itself and test the cables from the front jacks TO the gain board. The connectors suck ass for lack of a better word. It's REALLY easy to bend or break off the center pin of the cables when pushing them back into their tiny little sockets. This has been an issue far more often than a bad board. I'd just like to be SURE you aren't running down the wrong path, get a board and the same thing happens because of a bent or broken center conductor.
Marc |
I didn't swap around the inputs connections on the gain board just the output connections from the gain board to the output board
I can try swapping around the connections on the input side of the gain board and see what happens if you want me to |
Yes I do. Make sure it's not a cable all along. Pay close attention to the connections themselves.
Marc |
Ok I will check today since I do want to rule out it being a cable
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 10:15 pm Post subject: |
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Update I went to swap them around and can't due to different connector sizes
I am thinking of swapping around the neck boards and see what happens(will this hurt the set?!?)
Also I just tried this (don't grouch at me) I slightly turned the g2 up for the green tube and can see a negitive of the source (playing a video on it as I type this) same for the test grids and setup grids
I have the g2 back to where it was before I did the test so that's ok
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