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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 2:09 am Post subject: |
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| stefuel wrote: | | Nashou66 wrote: | For desoldering I tried everything and the best is to just use soldering wick. I dip it in flux then slop it on the solder I want to remove. then just clean the board with de natured alcohol when done.
Drags has a brand of wick he likes but for convenience I just use radio shack stuff.
Athanasios |
The rat shack stuff is pre-fluxed. You should be able to use it right off the roll. I do with no problems. |
I like the added flux for a super flow. 
Nashou
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jask
Joined: 17 Mar 2006
Posts: 10187
Location: kamloops BC
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| Posted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 5:56 am Post subject: |
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and the aroma... 
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stefuel
Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3353
Location: Green Harbor MA USA
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| Posted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 1:06 am Post subject: |
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| jask wrote: | | and the aroma... |
Speaking of aroma, I was at a customers house for a odor complaint from the A/C. Asked the customer what the smell seemed like to him. He said it was a strange smell. Nothing burning or a mold smell or a dead animal smell. So I start taking things apart and found some funky oil substance that had leaked down onto the evaporator coil. So I take more covers off and discovered that the blowers run capacitor had leaked out all it's fluid. In that state the blower motor usually won't function. I have a meter for checking those big beer can size caps and S.O.B., it tested perfect. Don't know how. So I changed it, cleaned up the mess and the smell was gone.
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 1:20 am Post subject: |
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| stefuel wrote: | | jask wrote: | | and the aroma... |
Speaking of aroma, I was at a customers house for a odor complaint from the A/C. Asked the customer what the smell seemed like to him. He said it was a strange smell. Nothing burning or a mold smell or a dead animal smell. So I start taking things apart and found some funky oil substance that had leaked down onto the evaporator coil. So I take more covers off and discovered that the blowers run capacitor had leaked out all it's fluid. In that state the blower motor usually won't function. I have a meter for checking those big beer can size caps and S.O.B., it tested perfect. Don't know how. So I changed it, cleaned up the mess and the smell was gone. |
I seen one of those almost pop its top (it did cause the compressor can to not function right)
I still have it somewhere if it didn't get carted off for scrap metal
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 9:27 am Post subject: |
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| stefuel wrote: | | jask wrote: | | and the aroma... |
Speaking of aroma, I was at a customers house for a odor complaint from the A/C. Asked the customer what the smell seemed like to him. He said it was a strange smell. Nothing burning or a mold smell or a dead animal smell. So I start taking things apart and found some funky oil substance that had leaked down onto the evaporator coil. So I take more covers off and discovered that the blowers run capacitor had leaked out all it's fluid. In that state the blower motor usually won't function. I have a meter for checking those big beer can size caps and S.O.B., it tested perfect. Don't know how. So I changed it, cleaned up the mess and the smell was gone. |
Ive seen that a lot of times, sometimes the item continued to function, others it failed. Ive seen them burst and spill their guts all over the place, the smell is somewhat different... Sometimes the motor ran very rough, others it stalled and burned out. They almost all ran at normal speed if they did run, but ran very hot ( usually taking out their internal thermal overload ) and very slow to build up to speed.
You probably already know, but some others wont, so ill post it anyway. The capacitor in this case is there to create a rotating magnetic field, by putting the capacitor in series with the second winding it causes the current on that winding to lead the voltage, where as on the other winding the current will be lagging the voltage, hence making the magnetic flux density peak at different times in each winding. You can reverse the direction of those motors easily by placing the capacitor on the first winding instead of second.
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mc86
Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 767
Location: pittsburgh, pa
TV/Projector: ECP 4500 (Vidikron box), ECP4500+, wanting 07MS/07MTS, evaluating pc soft-blend
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| Posted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 12:05 pm Post subject: |
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chip/case - Neat stuff.
So I am guessing that the choice of wire pairs one ties together (as per motor faceplate instructions) "sets" the rotation direction by simply changing which winding the cap is on?
I have a "lab" oven with a blower in it and that motor just failed for the second time in 2 years -- having seen only light duty. As the heat from the oven has come into the compartment with the motor (it conducts down the shaft), I've chalked the short lifetime up to heat. The original motor had fins on the shaft to cool it, the replacement didn't. Anyway, now that I think about it, it did start slow, clearly ran hot AND I didn't replace the cap with the last motor...hmm, bad cap? I am going to add a little cooling fan to the motor compartment, too.
cheers,
Matt
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 1:00 pm Post subject: |
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The cap probably killed the motor by not offsetting the phase angle enough, less speed = less back emf = more current flow = more heat in the windings.
To change direction of rotation, you must change which winding the capacitor it on.
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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| CasetheCorvetteman wrote: | The cap probably killed the motor by not offsetting the phase angle enough, less speed = less back emf = more current flow = more heat in the windings.
To change direction of rotation, you must change which winding the capacitor it on. |
That is true as the ac cap I mentioned in my previous post ran both the compressor and its cooling fan(thank goodness we didn't run it long when the cap failed) the hvac repair guy said had we ran it longer with the bad cap it would have took out the compressor and its cooling fan(the first one would meant a new unit)
But it did take more current to power the both of them
Kinda makes me glad the power inline cap I have on the audio setup in my car is easy to replace
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 12:19 am Post subject: |
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Audio inline cap is not the same, its DC not AC, and half of what you said made no sense. A capacitor does not run a motor, let alone two motors. If it was connected to both motors, it may be there for the purpose of power factor correction, but that is not required for correct or safe operation and will not cause a compressor and fan motor to fail. The run capacitor is connected in series with ONE of the windings in ONE motor, never both windings, and never both motors.
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 12:26 am Post subject: |
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| CasetheCorvetteman wrote: | | Audio inline cap is not the same, its DC not AC, and half of what you said made no sense. A capacitor does not run a motor, let alone two motors. If it was connected to both motors, it may be there for the purpose of power factor correction, but that is not required for correct or safe operation and will not cause a compressor and fan motor to fail. The run capacitor is connected in series with ONE of the windings in ONE motor, never both windings, and never both motors. |
I know the difference but I know what I seen the day the cap failed in our home hvac unit and yes it hender the operation of the ac section of the unit and it was inline with both the compressor cooling fan and the compressor
So your telling me the hvac repair guy was wrong?
Also about the inline cap on my cars audio setup I have seen reports of them popping they're top(really loud from most I have read about)
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 3:44 am Post subject: |
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No im telling you i believe youre wrong. You can feel free to attepmt to prove me wrong if you like, but i know abit about AC power characteristics, i also service and repair more than 40 HVAC and around as many or more refridgeration compressors at my place of employment.
1 capacitor installed in parallel with two motors serves for power factor correction only. There is no other purpose it can serve while connected that way. Connecting it in series with both motors would require both motors to be in series with each other, how do you reckon that would go with an AC compressor and a condensor fan motor in series with each other?
The fact the car audio cap can pop its top is totally irrelevant, any capacitor can do that, and those capacitors serve a totally different purpose to an AC capacitor on a mains power circuit.
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 4:30 am Post subject: |
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| CasetheCorvetteman wrote: | No im telling you i believe youre wrong. You can feel free to attepmt to prove me wrong if you like, but i know abit about AC power characteristics, i also service and repair more than 40 HVAC and around as many or more refridgeration compressors at my place of employment.
1 capacitor installed in parallel with two motors serves for power factor correction only. There is no other purpose it can serve while connected that way. Connecting it in series with both motors would require both motors to be in series with each other, how do you reckon that would go with an AC compressor and a condensor fan motor in series with each other?
The fact the car audio cap can pop its top is totally irrelevant, any capacitor can do that, and those capacitors serve a totally different purpose to an AC capacitor on a mains power circuit. |
I am just teing like I seen it at the time I don't feel like arguing
I have seen caps explode and this cap I mention has the top puffed up(not sure if it had a smell to it or not)
Not sure how it was wired up but I know it was between the power supply and the fan and compressor(its been awhile since I have seen inside the unit)I think it was on the hot side(again its been awhile) but there is a different cap in place now
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 5:22 am Post subject: |
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Youre not sure now?
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 5:23 am Post subject: |
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| CasetheCorvetteman wrote: | | Youre not sure now? |
Its been a good 10-12 years since its been replaced(and my memory ain't that good)
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km987654
Joined: 25 Jul 2007
Posts: 2874
Location: Australia
TV/Projector: Barco BG809s
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| Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 9:45 am Post subject: |
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My Head hurts
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 12:02 pm Post subject: |
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| km987654 wrote: | | My Head hurts |
Yours too eh?
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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G
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| Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 1:54 pm Post subject: |
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| CasetheCorvetteman wrote: | | km987654 wrote: | | My Head hurts |
Yours too eh? |
That's cause you guys are always hanging up-side-down. 
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