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squallgage
Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 21
Location: Netherlands
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| Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 9:40 pm Post subject: |
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Ik opend the lid and put a raster on, but before that i setup the blue and Red paralel on green.
so i just had to use the Horizontal on the H-board for red en it was perfect with just a few tweeks. , only blue needed a little extra tuning.
and it looks like this now :
and like this with tv on is , via a digital decoden , Not HD. 
it was right in the middle of a transition. ! .
But now there are 2 problems , not every time but some times i hear a loud tick! it sounds like arching of electricity.
but i did not see any flash. could it be inside a component ,
and the 2nd is that when there is a lot of white the screen turn blurry i had this with my old lenses also.
is it a setting fault ?, Contrast is : 50 and Brightness is : 50. normaly it was on 45 - 55. the higher the contrast the less focused the image is. ( i thought that was normal , is it ? )
just now the arching sound came up and the image turned black and after a second of 5 the image came back.
i thing this has something to do with the blurry white !?
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 9:44 pm Post subject: |
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| squallgage wrote: | Ik opend the lid and put a raster on, but before that i setup the blue and Red paralel on green.
so i just had to use the Horizontal on the H-board on red en it was perfect , only blue needed a little extra tuning.
and it looks like this now :
and like this with tv on is , via a digital decoden , Not HD.
it was right in the middle of a transition. ! .
But now there are 2 problems , not every time but some times i hear a loud tick! it sounds like arching of electricity.
but i did not see any flash. could it be inside a component ,
and the 2nd is that when there is a lot of white the screen turn blurry i had this with my old lenses also.
is it a setting fault ?, Contrast is : 50 and Brightness is : 50. normaly it was on 45 - 55. the higher the contrast the less focused the image is. ( i thought that was normal , is it ? ) |
The ticking noise means there is a high voltage leak somewhere in the set
Possible culprits
Anode wire or hv block(I had the later one fail on my Ecp not fun tracking it down)
Possible bad flyback/high voltage power supply
The blurryness I don't know for sure unless the electronic focus is needing adjusting
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crt king of black
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squallgage
Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 21
Location: Netherlands
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| Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 9:56 pm Post subject: |
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is the HV block the big block on the top right in the picture on my first post. i looked to replace it with the one on my
replacement beamer , because it looked like brand new. but there is a cable that goes under the big motherboard.
meaning i had to take the whole beamer apart and get the other beamer down from the celing.
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 10:00 pm Post subject: |
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| squallgage wrote: | is the HV block the big block on the top right in the picture on my first post. i looked to replace it with the one on my
replacement beamer , because it looked like brand new. but there is a cable that goes under the big motherboard.
meaning i had to take the whole beamer apart and get the other beamer down from the celing. |
Yep it is
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crt king of black
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squallgage
Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 21
Location: Netherlands
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| Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 10:04 pm Post subject: |
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| the big E wrote: | | squallgage wrote: | is the HV block the big block on the top right in the picture on my first post. i looked to replace it with the one on my
replacement beamer , because it looked like brand new. but there is a cable that goes under the big motherboard.
meaning i had to take the whole beamer apart and get the other beamer down from the celing. |
Yep it is |
is it possible to cut the wire connected to the main board and reconnecting it with a high Voltage coupling ?
or does it has to be one continues wire ?
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 10:23 pm Post subject: |
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| squallgage wrote: | | the big E wrote: | | squallgage wrote: | is the HV block the big block on the top right in the picture on my first post. i looked to replace it with the one on my
replacement beamer , because it looked like brand new. but there is a cable that goes under the big motherboard.
meaning i had to take the whole beamer apart and get the other beamer down from the celing. |
Yep it is |
is it possible to cut the wire connected to the main board and reconnecting it with a high Voltage coupling ?
or does it has to be one continues wire ? |
Given that its a ground wire it may be ok to splice but I wouldn't risk if I could remove it as a whole
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crt king of black
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barclay66
Joined: 27 Jun 2011
Posts: 1304
Location: Germany
TV/Projector: Marquee 9500 Ultra
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| Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 11:17 pm Post subject: |
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| squallgage wrote: | is it possible to cut the wire connected to the main board and reconnecting it with a high Voltage coupling ?
or does it has to be one continues wire ? |
Hi,
Don't cut the white wire going from the Chassis to the HV Splitter. It is a coaxial cable that is very difficult to solder. Better try a good cleaning first. Shut the the PJ off and let it sit overnight in order to discharge the tubes. Take isopropylic alcohol and clean the HV-Splitter, the HV cables and the HV Connectors.
Regarding the blurryness: It is typical for ES focused PJs that they loose some of the Focus ability when the picture gets brighter.
Regards,
barclay66
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squallgage
Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 21
Location: Netherlands
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| Posted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 10:11 am Post subject: |
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I know that the beamer is less sharp in bright screens , but its much worse than it was,.
for example watch tv , low res. and many commercials have a bright white ending with a logo and the brand name,
but when het whole screen i s white , the logo and the letters are really blurry.
it never was perfect  , but not as bad as this, ik am going to test this later , for every color apart.
to see it the problem comes for 1 tube or that that they all are blurry.
it was the first reason for me to replace the tubes for replacements, the 2nd was that blue and red had a
piece of phosfor chipped away (how this is possible i don't know, )
and now the problem is still here, the overal image is much better. maybe setting the brightness lower from the beamer and a hight brightness via the pc. or the other way around.
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 12:26 pm Post subject: |
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You need to change the video output boards over the CRT sockets. If you fail to change those with tested good ones, you will burn holes into the replacement tubes as well.
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squallgage
Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 21
Location: Netherlands
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| Posted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 1:02 pm Post subject: |
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| Curt Palme wrote: | | You need to change the video output boards over the CRT sockets. If you fail to change those with tested good ones, you will burn holes into the replacement tubes as well. |
I am guessing that the video output boards are the 3 little boards bolted to the chassis.
i still have those in very good condition in my spare beamer.
while changing the tube i wanted to change them to but did not , there is also al little tweek pot on the 3 boards.
what do they do ?
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 1:05 pm Post subject: |
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It's well documented that the boards go bad over time. Saying that you have three 'in good conditoin' means nothing, as parts break down internally, while still looking fine on the outside. Failure of those boards causes a spot burn at turnoff, and you instantly kill the tube(s).
DO NOT adjust those controls on the board. Doing so with a weak or bad board almost guarantees that you destroy a tube.
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the big E
Joined: 20 Apr 2013
Posts: 1928
Location: speedwell Tn.
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| Posted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 1:58 pm Post subject: |
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| squallgage wrote: | | Curt Palme wrote: | | You need to change the video output boards over the CRT sockets. If you fail to change those with tested good ones, you will burn holes into the replacement tubes as well. |
I am guessing that the video output boards are the 3 little boards bolted to the chassis.
i still have those in very good condition in my spare beamer.
while changing the tube i wanted to change them to but did not , there is also al little tweek pot on the 3 boards.
what do they do ? |
Those knobs are the g2 adjustment don't touch those or it will throw the color balance of the set off(been there done that)
I agree with curt on the spare parts possibly being bad as I am having this with my nec 10pg as some of the boards need new capicatiors
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crt king of black
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squallgage
Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 21
Location: Netherlands
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| Posted: Sun Jul 21, 2013 8:10 pm Post subject: |
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i changed the out boards over green first. and cleaned the other 2 on red and bleu.
the green image is much much sharper now. i also cleaned all connection for the high voltage cables.
the blurrieness is also allot less in the bright area's .
i'am running it now for 5min , so i am going to leave it to run a little bit more tv source.
to see if anything comes up. and if the arching is still going on.
if every thing works out i can begin setting the beamer up for the HTPC again.
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squallgage
Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 21
Location: Netherlands
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| Posted: Sun Jul 21, 2013 8:54 pm Post subject: |
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it ran for 1 and a half hour. after that the hard tick came again. screen got black and came back. so i turned it off completely.
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km987654
Joined: 25 Jul 2007
Posts: 2874
Location: Australia
TV/Projector: Barco BG809s
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| Posted: Sun Jul 21, 2013 10:38 pm Post subject: |
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| squallgage wrote: | | it ran for 1 and a half hour. after that the hard tick came again. screen got black and came back. so i turned it off completely. |
The arcing could be inside the splitter or quad in which case you would not see it. If you can't find the arcing anywhere else I would replace the quad and splitter. In a completely dark room with the cover removed you should be able to see any arcing from anywhere other than inside the splitter or quad. Do you have any spares?
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squallgage
Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 21
Location: Netherlands
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| Posted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 10:28 am Post subject: |
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Yes i have both.
But i am guessing that it is probably the Quad, i am going to change it with the replacement one,
and go back to testing. and if not i has to be the Splitter,
An other question about te splitter , about the coax cable. the are 2 solder points where the inner
and an outer cable's connected. because a am stuck with a beamer to te sealing.
and i have a fair steady hand for soldering if desoldering the cable and resoldering it to replacement unit.
( cutting makes it to short and impossible to strip right ! .
this way its an easy switch. ! (if possible )
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squallgage
Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 21
Location: Netherlands
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| Posted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 10:51 am Post subject: |
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For cleaning i am using , Spiritus or Ethylalcohol. very good for cleaning electrical units, no damage to plastic parts.
it vaporizes fast and it does not dry the parts out.
The beamer is off for an hour of 13. is that enough to completely drain the quad ?
because of the 34.7Kv and warning for radiation in the metal shield.
what is the minimum waiting time to be able to remove these parts without killing yourself by accident ?
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km987654
Joined: 25 Jul 2007
Posts: 2874
Location: Australia
TV/Projector: Barco BG809s
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| Posted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 10:55 am Post subject: |
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| squallgage wrote: | Yes i have both.
But i am guessing that it is probably the Quad, i am going to change it with the replacement one,
and go back to testing. and if not i has to be the Splitter,
An other question about te splitter , about the coax cable. the are 2 solder points where the inner
and an outer cable's connected. because a am stuck with a beamer to te sealing.
and i have a fair steady hand for soldering if desoldering the cable and resoldering it to replacement unit.
( cutting makes it to short and impossible to strip right ! .
this way its an easy switch. ! (if possible ) |
You should be able to de-solder and then re-solder that cable. I have done it just be careful.
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km987654
Joined: 25 Jul 2007
Posts: 2874
Location: Australia
TV/Projector: Barco BG809s
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| Posted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 10:57 am Post subject: |
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| squallgage wrote: | For cleaning i am using , Spiritus or Ethylalcohol. very good for cleaning electrical units, no damage to plastic parts.
it vaporizes fast and it does not dry the parts out.
The beamer is off for an hour of 13. is that enough to completely drain the quad ?
because of the 34.7Kv and warning for radiation in the metal shield.
what is the minimum waiting time to be able to remove these parts without killing yourself by accident ? |
If its been off for 13 hours there should be no risk. Has it been disconnected from main power?? Make sure it was not on standby. I would have the power cord removed from the projector.
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squallgage
Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 21
Location: Netherlands
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| Posted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 11:02 am Post subject: |
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and a picture for the quad, the new one !
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