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two new projector projects
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dkap



Joined: 14 Aug 2008
Posts: 109


Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 12:51 am    Post subject:

AnalogRocks wrote:
The flash tends to hide the wear. Do you have a lamp you can put near by?


The only thing I can think of to try is a work light. Nothing else will get down close enough to the ground to help, and I can't lift that beast without assistance. (Trust me, though, there's no sign of wear whatsoever. The posted pics aren't hiding anything. Of course, if I were advertising them for sale, I'd see what I could do about showing it clearer. Smile )

Dan
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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G

Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 1:01 am    Post subject:

dkap wrote:
AnalogRocks wrote:
The flash tends to hide the wear. Do you have a lamp you can put near by?


The only thing I can think of to try is a work light. Nothing else will get down close enough to the ground to help, and I can't lift that beast without assistance. (Trust me, though, there's no sign of wear whatsoever. The posted pics aren't hiding anything. Of course, if I were advertising them for sale, I'd see what I could do about showing it clearer. Smile )

Dan


I only ask because I thought I could see a wear pattern in the flash picture.

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dkap



Joined: 14 Aug 2008
Posts: 109


Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 1:13 am    Post subject:

AnalogRocks wrote:
I only ask because I thought I could see a wear pattern in the flash picture.


Probably just the halo effect from the flash, but I can try again with the work light to ease your concerns. Smile

Dan
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draganm



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado

Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 1:25 am    Post subject:

tubes look great, time for "Curt the magnificent" to step in Mr. Green
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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G

Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 1:26 am    Post subject:

dkap wrote:
AnalogRocks wrote:
I only ask because I thought I could see a wear pattern in the flash picture.


Probably just the halo effect from the flash, but I can try again with the work light to ease your concerns. Smile

Dan


Hey it's up to you. Your toy, your rules.

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dkap



Joined: 14 Aug 2008
Posts: 109


Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 1:31 am    Post subject:

draganm wrote:
tubes look great, time for "Curt the magnificent" to step in Mr. Green


That's what I'm waiting for! (I know, I didn't follow your PM advice... But, I did just look on eBay out of curiosity and there's some real value in the RCVDS, remotes, and manuals; at least in terms of asking prices.) I'm hoping the price for a repaired/swapped SMPS makes it worth fixing up the unit. I'm also looking over this page, thinking it may be worth doing some fuse testing myself:

http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco500_Layout6.shtm

Dan
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 3:24 am    Post subject:

Pay no attention to eBay prices. Heck, there was a moron last week wanting $8500 for a Runco DTV 1200. Very Happy

The RCVDS are worthless, I threw out 5 of them last year after hanging onto them for years. the large remote that emulates the keypad in the back of the set will be your remote for the projector. If there's very light wear over a large area of the tube, then you're OK. Just compare your wear to the chart here:

http://www.curtpalme.com/TubeCondition_RatingChart.shtm

Sounds like you might be at an 8-9 or so, so fugettaboutit, you're good to go. So it comes down to you sending in the power supply for repair...
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dkap



Joined: 14 Aug 2008
Posts: 109


Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 3:40 am    Post subject:

Curt Palme wrote:
Pay no attention to eBay prices. Heck, there was a moron last week wanting $8500 for a Runco DTV 1200. Very Happy


I sort of figured as much, which is why I hadn't bothered to look at completed listings yet. However, selling on eBay is all about the quality of the ad. I've been helping a friend recently clear out some of his collection, and items that typically sell for $5-10 I've been able to get $20-30 for. But, if you're seeing zero value in the RCVDS', that's not a good starting point...

Quote:
the large remote that emulates the keypad in the back of the set will be your remote for the projector.


I have that and the IR remote.

Quote:
If there's very light wear over a large area of the tube, then you're OK. Just compare your wear to the chart here:

http://www.curtpalme.com/TubeCondition_RatingChart.shtm

Sounds like you might be at an 8-9 or so, so fugettaboutit, you're good to go. So it comes down to you sending in the power supply for repair...


Already looked at that page. Smile Easily better than an 8, by my eye. I can barely see the difference between a 9 and a 10 in those pics, so either of those seems right to me. I guess I should email you about repair costs and if there's anything else to send in, or steps to take first in chasing down all the possible problems? Since I now have the 800 and 708s in need of repair, I need to decide which is more cost effect and will be more satisfying long-term. The 708s is eight years newer, higher lumens (not a big issue in a fully darkened room), and a smaller chassis, but the 800 is higher resolution. Any other considerations?

Dan
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 3:44 am    Post subject:

Send both supplies in, and I'll give you a discount. THe 708s fail more due to the close proximity of everything internally. I've had worse luck selling the 70X chassis than any other set, period, but when they work, they can fun for 30,000 hours without issue, go figure. Still, a dead CRT projector is worth zero at this point. The 708 outperforms the 800 unless it has significant tube wear overall.
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draganm



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado

Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 5:30 pm    Post subject:

dkap wrote:
(I know, I didn't follow your PM advice... Dan
it was just advice, not the last word on anything. With the 800, even if it was working, you would still want Curt to do some things on it. For 60 bucks however, it's not like your rolling the dice Vegas style.
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dkap



Joined: 14 Aug 2008
Posts: 109


Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 7:01 pm    Post subject:

draganm wrote:
With the 800, even if it was working, you would still want Curt to do some things on it. For 60 bucks however, it's not like your rolling the dice Vegas style.


Good point. Curt, I'll send you an email in a bit. I'm playing around with the Vidikron to determine: a) if its s-video picture is significantly enough better than the Sony 1040Q's composite to be worth taking the Sony down and mounting the Vidikron as a temporary solution hooked up to the DVD player, and b) get a better idea of its capabilities in case I decide to sell it to recoup the Barco 800 costs. I've got to think I can get $50 out of it...

Curt, did you ever figure out a manual or general setup instructions for Vidikron's? I know you were looking for a manual a while back. Opening the cover, the controls are all straight forward, but I don't see anything obvious for flipping the picture (ceiling vs. table mount). It's set up for ceiling mount, which makes basic calibration a bit tougher. Smile I'm guessing it's some combination of the 4 dip switches.

Dan
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 3:53 am    Post subject:

I've got nothing, sorry! Check around the wires running from the main board to the yokes. Usually there's a jumper or second set of connectors to invert the image on the older smaller sets like that.
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dkap



Joined: 14 Aug 2008
Posts: 109


Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 9:00 am    Post subject:

Curt Palme wrote:
I've got nothing, sorry! Check around the wires running from the main board to the yokes. Usually there's a jumper or second set of connectors to invert the image on the older smaller sets like that.


No worries. I decided to build a lift this evening to take the Sony down and put the Vidikron up. Took a while, but I managed it single-handedly. The Vidikron could use a bit more adjustment, but even with some convergence issues, its s-video picture is looking a fair bit better than I ever got out of the Sony's composite. Still doesn't solve the HTPC connectivity problem, of course. Now to turn my attention back to that and the Barcos...

Dan
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dkap



Joined: 14 Aug 2008
Posts: 109


Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 6:28 am    Post subject:

I've been browsing through Curt's troubleshooting steps for the Barco 800, and I think I may have found the reason it won't power up.

http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco500_Layout6.shtm

I tested the 125 mA standby fuse and 5 of the 8 SMPS main power supply fuses (all but the three covered up by the SMPS, which I didn't try removing) and they all appear to be functional. Then I noticed what looks to be a broken connection on the metal bracket leaving the top of the grey thingie (I don't know electrical terms so well Smile ) labeled "212-7 4K7 10%x", just above the main input fuse to the power supply.

Is that one of the common power supply failure items, and is it something I can try replacing myself? I don't see any obvious way to remove it.

The last pic on this page shows it from above, but the connection is difficult to make out:

http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco500_Layout7.shtm

It almost looks like on mine, I could bend the disconnected metal back in and solder the two pieces together, although I can't remember if I have a soldering gun. Confused

One other big item worth mentioning: The previous owner had a bit of a mouse problem and one apparently set up shop in the Barco... I've removed all the boards and vacuumed it out, and more importantly looked stuff over to make sure no wiring was sabotaged. The pics below are the only thing I found of significance. I haven't dug in under the tubes, though.

Dan



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