CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

Zolzar · Joined: 26 Jun 2009 Posts: 252

How about the Rubycon power supply under the tubes? Should I start replacing any of these caps? Some of these look as if they are application specific. The service manual parts list did not cover any of the parts in here. Other than the caps I did not have on hand I have a feeling I should leave the power supply alone and enjoy the projector.

John

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

Zolzar · Joined: 26 Jun 2009 Posts: 252

I just did the HV power supply. Ill have to compile a list for the big PS. I did domthe resistor mod formthe HVPS in my Marquee. I dont recall swapping any caps . Thanks Anathansios! Much appreciated!

John

Tinman · Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 11:08 pm Post subject:

The power supply tends to leak the small caps. Replace as needed. You can usually smell it, though.

Zolzar · Joined: 26 Jun 2009 Posts: 252

Thanks Timnan. I ordered the last batch of caps last night.

Overall the PJ is doing well with the exception of the red and blue focus. I can't get the red to focus very well with the pot on the deflection board. Blue is by far the worst. Even with the defocus switch turned off the blue is really out. I'm in the prints now trying to see what caps are in the circuit to check my work. Is there anywhere else I should look at to address the focus issue?

John

CasetheCorvetteman · Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia

Have you done the astig rings?

Set the electronic center focus to minus 10, edges the zero, then adjust pots for best electronic focus. With blue, turn defocus off, get it perfect on the whole screen, then turn defocus back on. If you dont do the whole screen with blue, youll have uneven levels of blue brightness in differerent areas of the screen.

When you adjust the optical focus, display one colour at a time, full electronic defocus, then using binoculars looking at the center adjust til you see the grain of the phosphor sharp on the screen.

Zolzar · Joined: 26 Jun 2009 Posts: 252

Doh! Case! The Astig is exactly what the problem was. Of course I got a little ahead of myself based on the cap job potential for error. I did do a rough Astig adjustment and we are back in business with the focus. I did spend some time with the prints and found no reason to the focus to be off. There were five caps on the F-Drive board that I changed which I checked and were good. I still have six non polarized to change on that board. They will arive for next weekend from digikey. Apparently 300 caps in and I have made no mistakes so far. Thanks for keeping my motivation alive and well while I get through this project. I will go through the power supply at a later date. I have a few other hobbies that demand my attention after I finish this PJ.

John

CasetheCorvetteman · Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia

No problem Wink

Zolzar · Joined: 26 Jun 2009 Posts: 252

Project complete. I think I replaced somewhere in the neighborhood of 350 caps. I did do a full mechanical setup and a rough electrical setup but apparently did not fully understand saving the settings and all was lost. Once I have it set I wil surely be enjoying my long list if movies I have been waiting to see during the two month down period.

John

gjaky · Joined: 05 Jun 2010 Posts: 2802 Location: Budapest, Hungary

Good work!
To save your settings you have to create a new signal entry first (Adjust->signal entry-> new entry)

Jeremy112 · Joined: 28 Sep 2006 Posts: 2649 Location: Fond du Lac, WI

Reading all this is getting me wanting to recap my XG, it needs stabilization. New caps can make a world of difference for any machine, and I am sure my XG could use some new ones. It was heavily used before I owned it (I think it came from a school in illinois) and I had to replace the tubes which helped, but I can tell it could use some internal upgrades.

By the way, does anyone know what the HELL the buzzing noise in the power supply is caused by when on a full white or very bright screen? Its annoying as hell, I could live with the fans if the buzzing was gone. I thought I read somewhere that it was an underrated capacitor in the PSU?

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

Zolzar · Joined: 26 Jun 2009 Posts: 252

I had the buzzing sound as well. It seemed to originate from the HV splitter but disappeared after changing the caps on the HV power supply. I know in the PG series it could be related to a cap in the keystone circuit but I'm not sure about the XG's.

John

CxTurbo · Joined: 13 Oct 2008 Posts: 425 Location: Ontario, Canada

My 9PG buzzed pretty good as well.

The sound I heard came from the HV board on the back side of the projector. I never touched the board to see the caps on it if any. The buzz would decrease and increase based on the amplitude of the picture white/bright images being the worst as one would expect. It only bothered me if I had the cover open, other then that the fans were louder then the buzzing most of the time.

James

CasetheCorvetteman · Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia

Funny cause ive never had these buzzing sounds from either!! Ive been lucky. My 9PG has a 10uF where it has been recomended to change the 47uF to a 470uF, no issues with 10uF, so it can stay there Wink

Im using almost no keystone on it now anyway since its moved to the bedroom, image is way up on the wall and projector is on a much lower part of ceiling.

Zolzar · Joined: 26 Jun 2009 Posts: 252

The projector is working well after grayscale calibration. I very pleased with the image projected. I did however have problem while adjusting the grayscale when I called up the kelvin menu. Anytime when the blue white drive was adjusted above 48 the blue tube would start flashing. It appears that the drive control was lost and the cut off would kick in. I did manage to get it calibrated but it was an extremely daunting task dealing with the flashing. Any ideas as to why this is occurring would be welcome.

gjaky · Joined: 05 Jun 2010 Posts: 2802 Location: Budapest, Hungary

It can be a problem with the AKB circuit. You can veryfy this by setting the contrast up and down without AKB, then with AKG engaged, if it starts to flash only with AKB then there's the problem, if it starts to flash anyway, then it's a more general problem, if it doesn't start to flicker at all, then I don't know Smile

CasetheCorvetteman · Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia

Turn the AKB off i reckon, it comes on automatically when you go into KELVIN, but i always left it off all other times.

CasetheCorvetteman · Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia

If you need it brighter on blue you can defocus it abit more which may improve it, just make sure you try real hard to get the focus on blue as even as possible, flip the defocus back on, then defocus a touch more.

Zolzar · Joined: 26 Jun 2009 Posts: 252

I turned off the AKB in the menu and it did not eliminate the issue with the blue drive. Forgive my ignorance but is there a physical cutoff switch anywhere? Since it is only a problem with the blue drive what board should I examine? Video PWB? There is the distinct possibility this loss of control is due to an error while changing out the caps.

Thanks,

John