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BD808s: Blue shifts randomly to the right
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DolbySR



Joined: 08 Jun 2011
Posts: 47
Location: Switzerland

Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 7:36 pm    Post subject: BD808s: Blue shifts randomly to the right

Hi there!

Glad to see this forum is still alive and kicking!

There's something that began to behave quite odd lately with my BD808s. The blue image shifts suddenly to the right by two, three inches on the screen and wanders around a bit. It happens when the PJ is warming up, only and starts suddenly. When the PJ is warm, let's say after 20...30 minutes, I perform autoconvergence and everything is ok until i fire it up the next time. This shift only happens to the right - it never shifts left - but when it does shift the image, the image convergence itself, or rather the geometry, does not change, nor does it affect the other colours.

Any clue, what's going wrong? Bad soldering somewhere? Convergence board failing?

Thanks in advance,
Patrick

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CasetheCorvetteman



Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia

Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 11:51 pm    Post subject:

Clean the yoke connections.
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 1:34 am    Post subject:

You need a new H shift board. I've got lots. $50 plus shipping.
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DolbySR



Joined: 08 Jun 2011
Posts: 47
Location: Switzerland

Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 8:23 am    Post subject:

Hi there

Cleaning the yoke-connector and the horizontal boards and their connectors did the trick. Problem is: After half an hour of perfect operation, this happened:



That's the only image output I get. The image pattern itself is random, but static, so no noise or something. During a movie, the image went black and after a short while, came up like this. The PJ turns on, displays this image, then power-cycles a few times until it remains off. There are no permanent red fail-leds on, all voltage-leds are on as well. When the PJ finally stays off, the LEDs "ERROR" and, for a short while, "RCU" are on. Bad input board? Communication problem somewhere?

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zxh398



Joined: 05 Nov 2009
Posts: 55
Location: china guangzhou

Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 8:19 am    Post subject:

Replace the Bad input board capacitor
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barclay66



Joined: 27 Jun 2011
Posts: 1304
Location: Germany

TV/Projector: Marquee 9500 Ultra

Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 8:34 am    Post subject:

DolbySR wrote:
When the PJ finally stays off, the LEDs "ERROR" and, for a short while, "RCU" are on. Bad input board? Communication problem somewhere?

Hi,

Behaviour of the LEDs and the type of garbage on the screen look to me like a controller board gone wild. I would try with a spare if available...

Regards,
barclay66
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DolbySR



Joined: 08 Jun 2011
Posts: 47
Location: Switzerland

Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 8:43 am    Post subject:

Is there some sort of Service Manual for this PJ, BD808s? Or video signal block diagram, which board is where in the signal path?
Since I don't have any spares for this PJ, I would try to go step by step and follow the video signal path until it gets wrong.

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barclay66



Joined: 27 Jun 2011
Posts: 1304
Location: Germany

TV/Projector: Marquee 9500 Ultra

Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 10:51 am    Post subject:

Hi,

You will have to search for this. I once found some documents on the Barco Data 808 but those may be different as it isn't the 808s. This is what I know about the signal path (from the BD 808):

Boards involved:
RGB Input&Switching (R7617481)
Decoder (R7621745)
RGB Driver (R762174S Daughter Board on Decoder)
2nd RGB Input (R7621055)
RGB Output (3 x R7621735)

Signal Path:

Port 1 (Composite Video) -> RGB Input&Switching -> Decoder -> RGB Input&Switching -> RGB Driver -> RGB Output -> Tubes

Port 2 (S Video) -> RGB Input&Switching -> Decoder -> RGB Input&Switching -> RGB Driver -> RGB Output -> Tubes

Port 3 (2nd RGB) -> 2nd RGB Input -> RGB Input&Switching -> RGB Driver -> RGB Output -> Tubes

Port 4/5 (RGB Input) -> RGB Input&Switching -> RGB Driver -> RGB Output -> Tubes

RGB Insert (From Controller) -> RGB Input&Switching -> RGB Driver -> RGB Output -> Tubes

At the moment it looks like controller issue to me (scrambled picture & locking up). I'd first check the controller's supply voltages and the outputs of the on-board voltage regulators (there are 4 of them)...

Regards,
barclay66
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DolbySR



Joined: 08 Jun 2011
Posts: 47
Location: Switzerland

Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 1:20 pm    Post subject:

Hi

I checked the boards and noticed some differences. I added the board numbers for the BD808s to your BD808 example.

barclay66 wrote:

Boards involved (on BD808s):
RGB Input & Switching (R762719)
Decoder (R762745) - on back of RGB Switching Board
RGB Driver (R762720)
2nd RGB Input (R7621055)


Interesting, that the decoder on the 808s version is only a small, tiny card, compared to the 808 decoder.
Does anyone know, what this larger board is for next to the controller board in the cover? The one with many shielded cables from and to the RGB Switcher board.
>> It's the Linedoubler, apparently ( http://www.barco.com/en/products-solutions/options-accessories/other/lido.aspx ). Not really necessary, is it? I'm feeding the PJ with RGB/HV only.

barclay66 wrote:
At the moment it looks like controller issue to me (scrambled picture & locking up). I'd first check the controller's supply voltages and the outputs of the on-board voltage regulators (there are 4 of them)...


Just checked the regulators on the RGB Switcher and Controller board and all seem to be ok. Without the connection to the RGB Driver board (via 3 shielded cables over the top edge of the boards), the tubes remain black. Connected to the Switcher, red and blue (green stays black now) display static but random images. Source selection is not possible anymore, it remains on "C.VID" as indicated on the Switcher board. The only thing the PJ reacts to is turning it on via the remote control. Nothing else.

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Patrick
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Ile



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland

Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 2:01 pm    Post subject:

DolbySR wrote:
Does anyone know, what this larger board is for next to the controller board in the cover? The one with many shielded cables from and to the RGB Switcher board.

Could be limo.
http://www.curtpalme.com/docs/R5976225_00_Installation.pdf

DolbySR wrote:
Just checked the regulators on the RGB Switcher and Controller board and all seem to be ok. Without the connection to the RGB Driver board (via 3 shielded cables over the top edge of the boards), the tubes remain black. Connected to the Switcher, red and blue (green stays black now) display static but random images. Source selection is not possible anymore, it remains on "C.VID" as indicated on the Switcher board. The only thing the PJ reacts to is turning it on via the remote control. Nothing else.

Hard to say what's wrong, because there is so many symptoms.
Wild raster movement -> Hsift board
weird noise -> switcher board?
rest problems-> controller?

I'd first remove limo card from signal chain and see what happens. Then I'd replace controller board, because I guess it would be only one that can cause all those symptoms.
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DolbySR



Joined: 08 Jun 2011
Posts: 47
Location: Switzerland

Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 2:25 pm    Post subject:

Just noticed something: Shouldn't the "PROCESSOR CYCLES" LED be flashing at ALL times? When I turn on the PJ, this LED stops flashing and starts doing so when the PJ shuts off again.
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 2:29 pm    Post subject:

Yes, it should be flashing all the time. Sounds like a controller board issue to me. I wonder, did you clean the module contacts with any kind of cleaner, and if so, I wonder if some of the HV pulses on the H board got into the sensitive I2C data lines due to the cleaning fluid? If you just reseated the boards, then that shouldn't be a possible cause.
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DolbySR



Joined: 08 Jun 2011
Posts: 47
Location: Switzerland

Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 2:33 pm    Post subject:

Curt Palme wrote:
Yes, it should be flashing all the time. Sounds like a controller board issue to me. I wonder, did you clean the module contacts with any kind of cleaner, and if so, I wonder if some of the HV pulses on the H board got into the sensitive I2C data lines due to the cleaning fluid? If you just reseated the boards, then that shouldn't be a possible cause.


Well, I cleaned them with pressurized air out a Airbrush Can. You know, those large cans with some sort of propellant inside... But, yeah, there's a possibility, that some of the propellant might have made contact with the board. Although, the PJ started to behave like that an hour or so after I cleaned it and after it was in operation for about 20 minutes.

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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
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TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 2:51 pm    Post subject:

I don't think that would have done anything. Thing is, the Barcos aren't known for bad module connections like the Marquees are. I'd reseat all modules again, check for bent pins on the connectors, that happens once in a while, but I'd change the controller board to start with. Weird though that the controller still responds to on/off commands.. I've got lots of controllers for cheap.
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DolbySR



Joined: 08 Jun 2011
Posts: 47
Location: Switzerland

Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 3:08 pm    Post subject:

Ha! Got it! Well, most of it...

There was a blown 100 Ohm Resistor right next to the I2C Bus on the Controller board. Repalced it with one from the Line Doubler Board, now picture is back. Ok, 2/3 of it is back. Green is missing now... Examining it right now...

Video Signal present at the in and outputs of the RGB "Driver" Board, but the green tube does not seem to be "glowing" like the others do. The LED on this small board right above the tube neck is on always, too. The other two for blue and green are off. Filament broken?

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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 3:26 pm    Post subject:

THE LED is the G2 setup light. Ignore that right now. Yes, chase the filament voltage, if it's missing, or the tube filament is open (unlikely), then you'll get nothing out of the green tube.

What DID you do to your set? Smile 3 failures in a really short time is unheard of.
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DolbySR



Joined: 08 Jun 2011
Posts: 47
Location: Switzerland

Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 3:31 pm    Post subject:

I'm innocent, I didn't do anything immoral to my set =P

I'll track down the filament voltage later on. What's a regular voltage range for it? 100V?

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DolbySR



Joined: 08 Jun 2011
Posts: 47
Location: Switzerland

Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 5:15 pm    Post subject:

Well, note to myself: Do not yank out cables without checking, if something else got unhooked... The neck board was not connected to the mainboard anymore. Plug it back it, thing works like a charm. Just watched 20 minutes of a live concert (Jennifer Rostock, if anyone's interested to know...) and no fading, no fancy chaos...

Yay for that and thanks to all of you Smile

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jrushing



Joined: 16 Apr 2007
Posts: 4
Location: Oregon

Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 7:09 pm    Post subject: similar issue

I have a Sony 1252 that is doing something similar but the blue shifts and does not settle back. Are we dealing with the same issues
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 7:43 pm    Post subject:

o, on the 1252, the V output board/convergence board is bad. I can repair it, but you'd have to take the board out and send it to me.
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