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Denon AVR-2307CI - Turns on then goes into protection
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Jeremy112



Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 2649
Location: Fond du Lac, WI

Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 2:57 pm    Post subject:

mac,

The board I cooked the parts on, it has 7 sections, I suppose you could say channels, each sections parts has the amp they go for in the number, for example the transistor I cooked, Q504SBL for surround back left...

could that indicate since TP102 was about 1" away, that the surround back left channel is whats having issues?

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macgyver655



Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508


Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 3:09 pm    Post subject:

Jeremy112 wrote:
Also, after cooking those 2 parts on the CNT PCB 7020-06488-201-S1, I removed it, which allowed me to test TP102, it did not affect functionality even when it cooked.

I can replace the resistor on that board, but I need the number for Q504SBL since the face of it blew off :S


What do you mean "it did not affect functionality"? Did you still test 114v on TP102?
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Jeremy112



Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 2649
Location: Fond du Lac, WI

Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 3:13 pm    Post subject:

macgyver655 wrote:
Jeremy112 wrote:
Also, after cooking those 2 parts on the CNT PCB 7020-06488-201-S1, I removed it, which allowed me to test TP102, it did not affect functionality even when it cooked.

I can replace the resistor on that board, but I need the number for Q504SBL since the face of it blew off :S


What do you mean "it did not affect functionality"? Did you still test 114v on TP102?


When I removed the CNT PCB from the receiver it did not affect power on and the protection shutdown, it behaved how its been working.

Yes TP102 still read 114vdc

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macgyver655



Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508


Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 3:23 pm    Post subject:

Q504SBL and R511SBL are on the pre amp board. Q504 is a KSC1845F and R511 is a 47 ohm, 1/4w metal film.

TP102 is for the FR channel. So on the main board you need to test Q101FR, Q102FR, Q103FR, Q104FR, D102, D102FR, D101FR, ZD101FR, and ZD102FR.

Further testing may be required depending on what you find.
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macgyver655



Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508


Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 3:34 pm    Post subject:

Looks like it may have sent a charge back through the B- line to that preamp board from that FR channel. On the main board you also need to check Q184, R184(4.7 ohm) and R189(100 ohm).

More testing maybe required on that preamp board but lets see what we have from this. Make a list of the parts to test that I gave you and respond good or bad in your post.
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Jeremy112



Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 2649
Location: Fond du Lac, WI

Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 4:02 pm    Post subject:

I'll do that right now and get back to you mac, sorry for the delay in reply, I had to go to the gas station and waited for 2 trains for 40 minutes.

Anyway, back to testing!

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Jeremy112



Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 2649
Location: Fond du Lac, WI

Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 5:52 pm    Post subject:

Mac,

I've been testing the parts, the ones I can locate. I guess I should have asked what you want me to test for on Q101FR-Q104FR, voltage I assume?

Also I cannot for the life of me find D101FR or D102FR, all I can find close is D101 and D102 (of which I checked and both read 590 one way and open the other way on diode test)

I have D102, ZD101FR, ZD102FR, I also have Q184, R184, which from what I can find, is right next to Q184, only the number for it is '-BR184' I will wait until you reply to check any further, plus I must make a run to the store and get some 9V batteries since the lithium ion one I was using just died.

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macgyver655



Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508


Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 6:06 pm    Post subject:

Not checking for voltage. Your testing for a short between any legs. DMM on diode scale for testing all parts i gave you.

If your not sure of the readings you should be getting just compare Q101FR with Q101FL, and compare Q102FR with Q102FL.

D101FR and D102FR are connect in series with ZD101FR and ZD102FR.
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Jeremy112



Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 2649
Location: Fond du Lac, WI

Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 6:49 pm    Post subject:

macgyver655 wrote:
Not checking for voltage. Your testing for a short between any legs. DMM on diode scale for testing all parts i gave you.

If your not sure of the readings you should be getting just compare Q101FR with Q101FL, and compare Q102FR with Q102FL.

D101FR and D102FR are connect in series with ZD101FR and ZD102FR.


Thanks Mac, Ill report my results back to you in a bit

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Jeremy112



Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 2649
Location: Fond du Lac, WI

Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 10:00 pm    Post subject:

Mac sorry for the delay yet again, the batteries for my meter werent the issue, it took a dump in the middle of testing! I'm waiting for a friend to bring one over, I ordered a decent one finally, bit more advanced than the $10 hardware store one. Ill get those parts checked out tonight yet.
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macgyver655



Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508


Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 12:01 am    Post subject:

Roger that. Don't wait to long. The weather has been bad here for a few days which is why I have been available. Only a day or 2 left and I wont be on as much again.
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Jeremy112



Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 2649
Location: Fond du Lac, WI

Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 7:41 pm    Post subject:

Mac,

Finally got a meter to use, I tested Q101FR-Q104FR as well as the diodes and resistors you told me to check (after finding them all Smile ) and the only part that had an issue was Q101FR, it reads a dead short on all 3 pins, and voltage on it reads 56.7vdc on all 3 pins.

My guess would be that that transistor 2SD2560 is blown and thats the issue?

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Jeremy112



Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 2649
Location: Fond du Lac, WI

Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 7:50 pm    Post subject:

Also, forgot to add, Q103 is pretty much shorted, best reading on it was 006, so those 2 are bad I assume? Could that be all thats bad?
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macgyver655



Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508


Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 8:06 pm    Post subject:

Jeremy112 wrote:
Also, forgot to add, Q103 is pretty much shorted, best reading on it was 006, so those 2 are bad I assume? Could that be all thats bad?


is that Q103FR?
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Jeremy112



Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 2649
Location: Fond du Lac, WI

Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 8:08 pm    Post subject:

macgyver655 wrote:
Jeremy112 wrote:
Also, forgot to add, Q103 is pretty much shorted, best reading on it was 006, so those 2 are bad I assume? Could that be all thats bad?


is that Q103FR?


Yes Q103FR, sorry about that

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macgyver655



Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508


Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 8:14 pm    Post subject:

As far as that being all, thats a tough call. That Q504SBL and resistor has me a little concerned. If it was a spike back through the B- then it may have taken out all the Q504's, (1 for each channel).

I would remove all the bad parts and also remove Q102FR and see if the receiver powers up normally. You should be able to also test TP102 again and have 0 volts. let me know what you get.
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Jeremy112



Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 2649
Location: Fond du Lac, WI

Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 8:26 pm    Post subject:

macgyver655 wrote:
As far as that being all, thats a tough call. That Q504SBL and resistor has me a little concerned. If it was a spike back through the B- then it may have taken out all the Q504's, (1 for each channel).

I would remove all the bad parts and also remove Q102FR and see if the receiver powers up normally. You should be able to also test TP102 again and have 0 volts. let me know what you get.


Mac, I checked the Q504s on the preamp board, all appear fine except the one that I fried. The SR channel (Q504SL of which I cooked) is right next to the FR channel... sooooo its possible that i let one of the testing leads (cant think of exact word at the moment) slip and it hit something on the SR channel

So yeah all the Q504s except the SR of course, read fine, I have the flameproof resistors, ill have to order a new transistor for the SR channel in the preamp though.

For the time being though, I assume replacing the 2 resistors, removing the bad transistor, and removing Q103FR and Q101FR will be all thats required?

Ill begin removing the bad parts right now.

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Jeremy112



Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 2649
Location: Fond du Lac, WI

Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 9:04 pm    Post subject:

Mac,

I have the unit out of the chassis, I managed to actually find the D101FR and D102FR (they were on the bottom, which I figured). I re checked everything since I now have easy access to it.

These are the parts I found defective:

Q101FR
Q102FR
Q103FR
Checked these against the FL channel to confirm

D102FR is blown open, I can see the copper inside so its obviously bad.
Q184 that you told me to check earlier I rechecked on diode test, and its best reading was 019, other was 003

So these are the 5 I can confirm bad (as long as you agree Q184 is bad). Are there any resistors I should check for? I know when a channel blows it can take a lot of stuff out with it

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macgyver655



Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508


Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 9:46 pm    Post subject:

Yes, Q184 is bad. Have you tried turning it on with all those parts removed?

I'll post an image in a little bit of what all should be checked.
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macgyver655



Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508


Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 10:19 pm    Post subject:

Here's the resistors that need to be checked.


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