Return to the CurtPalme.com main site CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum
A forum with a sense of fun and community for Home Theater enthusiasts!
Products for Sale ] [ FAQ: Hooking it all up ] [ CRT Primer/FAQ ] [ Best/Worst CRT Projectors List ] [ Setup Tips & Manuals ] [ Advanced Procedures ] [ Newsletter ]
 

Blu-ray disc release list and must-have titles. Buy the latest and best Blu-ray titles to show off in your home theater!

 As this forum is rarely used anymore, we've locked it. Feel free to browse and read. Questions? Please reach out to us directly. Cheers! 

Got a 1292, evidence of small, slow glycol leak from blue

 
This forum is locked: you cannot post, reply to, or edit topics.   This topic is locked: you cannot edit posts or make replies.    CurtPalme.com Forum Index -> CRT Projectors
Author Message
crtsrcool



Joined: 05 May 2012
Posts: 20


Posted: Tue May 22, 2012 11:34 am    Post subject: Got a 1292, evidence of small, slow glycol leak from blue

Hi, thanks for reading!

I've not had a lot of experience with fixing CRT's, only with setting them up and running them.
The glycol didn't damage anything apart from some limited corrosion to the chassis, but what I want to make sure of is that the unit is all ready to be started, configured and used. What do I need to do to make sure any problems with the glycol leak are resolved?
It hasn't been leaking for a while as it was just sitting in storage, for whatever that's worth. I just want to make sure it doesn't leak any more after this. I'll be floor mounting instead of ceiling, so if there's any further leakage it won't drain harmlessly away from the boards.

Thanks!
Back to top
noos@xp37+



Joined: 17 Jun 2008
Posts: 464
Location: Berlin/Munich

Posted: Tue May 22, 2012 4:43 pm    Post subject:

Hello,

I am sorry that I do not have a 1292 in my collection yet. But I can give you some general bla bla on that.

I have a Ultra Marquee, that leaks like crazy when the chamber is getting warm and the glycol is expanding. I just took some glycol out, so that there is a small air bubble in the chamber, and the problem was done. If the Marquee bellow would start to leak again, I would try to seal the complete bellow with a layer of that new type of silicone stuff (that is free of silicone, some kind of polymer - it is in the home improvement store right beside the silicone, but five times that expensive ~ 10$). With that stuff I was able the form LC chamber, layer by layer, when a rare chamber was to small for G70 Elements. Still no leak.
So that could be an idea, if you do not want to take out a tube like I did...because I have a Sony HDIH here, that from the chamber should be more identical to a 1292, than a Marquee. That HDIH was missing some glycol on blue when I bought it standing on the floor, after it was ceiling mounted. As there are no glycol leaks, I expect it to leak only when ceiling mounted. So if I ever use it on the ceiling, I will use a layer of "non silicone" silicone around the chambers screw (the silicone seal was broken on one blue screw), and if this will not work, a layer around the complete chamber.

Best regards from Munich

Marc
Back to top
cmjohnson



Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 5180
Location: Buried under G90s

Posted: Tue May 22, 2012 7:52 pm    Post subject:

Contact TSE, who works at VDC Display Systems. They rebuild all kinds of CRT assemblies for every manufacturer, and he can probably tell you something
useful about how to address the leak.

CJ
Back to top
mc86



Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 767
Location: pittsburgh, pa

TV/Projector: ECP 4500 (Vidikron box), ECP4500+, wanting 07MS/07MTS, evaluating pc soft-blend

Posted: Wed May 23, 2012 12:34 am    Post subject:

Could you do a floor mount with the unit inverted and just a little higher off the ground - that way leaks would be like as if on ceiling...? Can this work or would the screen's bottom need to be too close to the floor for most setups? Somehow I never thought about this...

I actually like this idea as one thing I don't like about my setup is how close to the ceiling my screen is...looks like I need to go visit the screen/setup basics for centerline of screen wrt eye height from the ground...

Matt
Back to top
noos@xp37+



Joined: 17 Jun 2008
Posts: 464
Location: Berlin/Munich

Posted: Wed May 23, 2012 7:16 am    Post subject:

mc86 wrote:
Could you do a floor mount with the unit inverted and just a little higher off the ground - that way leaks would be like as if on ceiling...? Can this work or would the screen's bottom need to be too close to the floor for most setups? Somehow I never thought about this...

I actually like this idea as one thing I don't like about my setup is how close to the ceiling my screen is...looks like I need to go visit the screen/setup basics for centerline of screen wrt eye height from the ground...

Matt



You can put the projector where you want to, and then use a projector tilt to bring the picture centered on the screen. But you need to be in the range for your Scheimpflug, and you will lose phosphor area because of keystone correction. But you also can maximize phosphor usage, by doing 0 axis projection. Then, the projector is in the center of the screen horizontally and vertically, but you have to find a place to sit without blocking the light of the CRT. 0 axis can be used for rear projection. If the center of the screen is high enough with front projection, you can sit on the floor. Like in the old hippie era.
Back to top
noos@xp37+



Joined: 17 Jun 2008
Posts: 464
Location: Berlin/Munich

Posted: Wed May 23, 2012 7:48 am    Post subject:

mc86 wrote:
Could you do a floor mount with the unit inverted and just a little higher off the ground - that way leaks would be like as if on ceiling...? Can this work or would the screen's bottom need to be too close to the floor for most setups? Somehow I never thought about this...

I actually like this idea as one thing I don't like about my setup is how close to the ceiling my screen is...looks like I need to go visit the screen/setup basics for centerline of screen wrt eye height from the ground...

Matt



forgot: If you want to achieve more of a simulation look, than a cinema look, the screen should be closer to the floor. You have to get as much cover of the vertical and horizontal field of view as you can, to become immersed. I achieved best results with a screen starting at the floor and going up to the ceiling (80"), sitting 80" away! On a 4:3 you will have good brightness, bit with 16:9, you need more width and lose light output. But you do not need such a big screen, just try to cover as much filed of view in all dircetions, when your head is relaxed straight. Starting with the screen from close above the floor, and only using 70 percent of height can be impressive too. Or you use a curve screen (or torus/dome), that wraps around your seating position, to get more field of view from the same screen size.
My 140"x80" screen received the nickname "the portal" from guests. And even in non stereoscopic use with a crt, it looked so much 3d and like a extension of the room. I was able to get anyone out of the room within 30 seconds. I just need to throw a bumpy rally game, or something with fast short movements, and the people left within seconds because of simulator sickness: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motion_sickness#Simulation_sickness
I sometimes miss this setup....but I now do rear projection with smaller screens, but closer seating position. That results in an even better cover of the filed of view, and greater brightness.
Back to top
This forum is locked: you cannot post, reply to, or edit topics.   This topic is locked: you cannot edit posts or make replies.    CurtPalme.com Forum Index -> CRT Projectors All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum