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erikjohn



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 636
Location: Florida

Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 1:44 pm    Post subject:

I just found a piece of copper stranded wire that I had laying around and the guage was roughly the thickness of the pin out as you can see in the photo.

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EJ
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madpoet



Joined: 30 Mar 2006
Posts: 851


Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 1:49 pm    Post subject:

Ok! Smile
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9500LC + MP Mods V2 + HD10F lenses + Frankenyoke V2 = Something nice... I hope I get to actually watch it sometime!
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Mark_A_W



Joined: 15 Mar 2006
Posts: 3068
Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia

Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2007 11:44 pm    Post subject:

You shouldn't tie them together, you should connect KH to ground via a 1M to 10M resistor.

The KH grid reduces the cathode capacitance, allowing it to be swung black to white faster = better bandwidth.

NEC uses it on the P16LJE07s on an XG (with a 3M3 resistor), while the P16LJE08 in a G70 doesn't.

I'm running a mixed bag in my XG and I don't see a huge difference, but the correct way to do it is what the specsheet says - ground KH through a resistor.

Whoever said to tie G1 and G2 together is JUST WRONG.

And tieing KH to G1 eliminates the bandwidth advantage of the final generation of tubes - yeah it'll work, but it's not how it's supposed to be.
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madpoet



Joined: 30 Mar 2006
Posts: 851


Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 12:51 pm    Post subject:

Gah, just when I was going to do this this weekend I'm told not to do it that way Wink *sigh* I hate soldering.
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Gino



Joined: 22 Apr 2006
Posts: 1363
Location: Trinity Beach, AUSTRALIA

Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 7:09 am    Post subject:

So which way did you end up doing it madpoet?
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madpoet



Joined: 30 Mar 2006
Posts: 851


Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:35 am    Post subject:

The way Mark said to. It wasn't that hard, the worst part for me was drilling out the hole Smile
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erikjohn



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 636
Location: Florida

Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 11:14 am    Post subject:

I still have mine tied with the wire I guess I will have to locate the resistor redo the mod. I haven't had any issues though with I would say getting up on 800hrs.
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Gino



Joined: 22 Apr 2006
Posts: 1363
Location: Trinity Beach, AUSTRALIA

Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 11:54 am    Post subject:

madpoet wrote:
The way Mark said to. It wasn't that hard, the worst part for me was drilling out the hole Smile

That will be the method I'll have to try then.

btw, I drill holes for a living Wink

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madpoet



Joined: 30 Mar 2006
Posts: 851


Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 12:28 pm    Post subject:

Male prostitute? Smile

Seriously though, it's not hard... just a bit nerve wracking for me. Start small with the bit and gradually go up in size to the final size you want.

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Chuchuf



Joined: 11 Mar 2006
Posts: 548


Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 12:37 pm    Post subject:

Gino,

Tying pin 7 (grid 3) via a 10M ohm resistor to ground is the way that Sony ties in Grid 3 (KH) on the G90 so I believe this is the proper way to do this.

Terry
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Gino



Joined: 22 Apr 2006
Posts: 1363
Location: Trinity Beach, AUSTRALIA

Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 1:15 pm    Post subject:

madpoet wrote:
Seriously though, it's not hard... just a bit nerve wracking for me. Start small with the bit and gradually go up in size to the final size you want.


I was thinking of maybe using the diamond burs in the surgery under the microscope?

So did you remove resistor R38 also?

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madpoet



Joined: 30 Mar 2006
Posts: 851


Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 1:25 pm    Post subject:

I removed R38, drilled pin 6, and grounded pin7. I wasn't sure on R37, it wasn't in the original instructions so I've left it alone for now. Maybe someone else can comment.

I'm sure your drills are more than up to the task Wink

Edit... not sure where my brain was, I was thinking of something else. I did remove R37 also.

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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 1:49 pm    Post subject:

Gino wrote:


I was thinking of maybe using the diamond burs in the surgery under the microscope?


Let me be the next one in surgery:

"Dr, there's a PC board and solder joint in my crown. Can you explain how it got there?" Mr. Green Thumbs Up
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NewbieDAN



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 319
Location: Bunbury Western Australia

Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 2:52 pm    Post subject:

Gino wrote:
madpoet wrote:
Seriously though, it's not hard... just a bit nerve wracking for me. Start small with the bit and gradually go up in size to the final size you want.


I was thinking of maybe using the diamond burs in the surgery under the microscope?

So did you remove resistor R38 also?


Ahhh....... had this crazy picture in my mind, of your neck boards proped up in the chair with those saftey spec's on, big adjustable light beaming down, Dr Gino, mask on, with the high-pitched whizzzzzzzz.....sit still, this won't hurt a bit.......

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jantje112



Joined: 17 Jul 2006
Posts: 328


Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 9:22 pm    Post subject:

I tried a green lug in my 9500lc, it's a "mix" with 2 rebuild's LCP. I removed r37 and r38 and soldered a 1M resistor from ground to pin7.

The Green tubes start blooming around 45 contrast. Way before blue and green..

Did I do something wrong?
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nuttall_chris



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 832
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 10:23 pm    Post subject:

jantje112 wrote:
I tried a green lug in my 9500lc, it's a "mix" with 2 rebuild's LCP. I removed r37 and r38 and soldered a 1M resistor from ground to pin7.

The Green tubes start blooming around 45 contrast. Way before blue and green..

Did I do something wrong?


You may need to adjust the G2 on the LUG. I am using LUGs in my 9500 and the G2 values are all around 45. With the LCP tubes I expect your G2 values are likely around 65.

Chris.
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-Pjackso



Joined: 31 Mar 2006
Posts: 791
Location: Oklahoma

Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 4:29 am    Post subject:

Is there a consensus on what resistor value to install on pin 7?
1M to 10M is tossed around (and I'm sure either will work) - but which is recommended?

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jantje112



Joined: 17 Jul 2006
Posts: 328


Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 1:14 pm    Post subject:

nuttall_chris wrote:
jantje112 wrote:
I tried a green lug in my 9500lc, it's a "mix" with 2 rebuild's LCP. I removed r37 and r38 and soldered a 1M resistor from ground to pin7.

The Green tubes start blooming around 45 contrast. Way before blue and green..

Did I do something wrong?


You may need to adjust the G2 on the LUG. I am using LUGs in my 9500 and the G2 values are all around 45. With the LCP tubes I expect your G2 values are likely around 65.

Chris.


I already did the G2 procedure. Indeed it's way lower than LCP. But that isn't the course of the problem.
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CRT_Ben



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 1684
Location: Northern Virginia

Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 12:50 am    Post subject:

jantje112 wrote:
I tried a green lug in my 9500lc, it's a "mix" with 2 rebuild's LCP. I removed r37 and r38 and soldered a 1M resistor from ground to pin7.

The Green tubes start blooming around 45 contrast. Way before blue and green..

Did I do something wrong?


I'm having the exact same problem (I'm running all LUGs). I see a substantial sharpness increase (read: focuses like a 9"er should) if I drop the contrast from 50 to 30, but I'm not willing to go that dim. If I pump contrast to 65 or 70 my focus goes to all hell, even my Sony 1041 can focus sharper. Sad

Also I have tried frankenyokes, with limited success...it seems like they don't have the same effect on lugs?
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nuttall_chris



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 832
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:38 am    Post subject:

I have Frankenyokes on my LUGs and I can run my contrast up to 60 or 70 with only minimal loss of focus.

Chris.
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