CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[CIR Engineering]

Generally you want the gap between the edge of the image and the edged of the tube to be between 5~8mm. I personally usually make it more lik3 3~5mm on my own machines. It doesn't have to be perfect, but the closer you get it to even, the better. The advantage to this system is that it is pretty easy to tell 5~8mm by eye because it is such a small distance that it is easy to see. Determining the center of the tube (traditional method) is really a lot harder to spot by eye.

If all this is too confusing, just do your setup by referencing the center as you were going to. The way you were going to do the setup is the traditional way as described in the manual. The edge weighted method is just better for those who want to squeeze out every last bit of performance, and is a noticeable improvement. The edge weighted system is also easier to perform once you understand it.

When you do the setup based on the edges of the tube, you can make your image square to the edges of the tube to start. Of course, when you match the image to the screen, you will need to use some keystone and the image will become something close to an isosceles trapezoid on the tube face (16x9 on screen). At that point, you want to be sure that the two corners of the trapezoid closest to the tube edge are around 5mm from the edge.

Just start playing, you'll see.

craigr

[bachiano]

Hi Craigr

Been playing all day

I've returned all to 128 using P2.
Took the lenses off.
Maxed out both V and H .

Below are pics of the Crosshair and Crosshatch pattern.
After I took the lenses off and was trying to center the Crosshatch on the green I noticed four little tabs.
I hope you can see the little tabs @ 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock.
Can I presume these tabs indicate the true V and H center of the CRT ?

1) If true, then when I center the Crosshatch on the tube face I will no longer be at 128 H - Is that ok?

2) in the Crosshair it is obvious that the H is too far north, in relation to the tabs @ 9 and 3 o'clock, even at 128.
It is also obvious on the top and bottom cross in relation to the tube's edge.

Although it is hard to see from the pic, the H is also a little skewed in relation to the tabs @ 9 and 3 o'clock.
- originally I did the DY angle adjustment on the blue and Red to match the Greens H.
But now I think I need to true up the green's H to the tabs @ 9 and 3 o'clock and redo R and B.

3) If that makes sense, then after that, I will center the crosshatch of all the tubes
and then rotate the R and B to match the periphery of the Green crosshatch.


I'm probably over thinking this but I'd rather get it right, right now, before my wife says "enough is enough"

Thanks for all your help !
Greatly appreciated !!!

P.S. I definitely want to "squeeze out every last bit of performance" as this PJ is practically new
and I want to eventually play with 1080p.
Right now, with my setup, 1080p is definitely not possible.

[AFryia]

[bachiano]

Hi Afryia.

I did a little more work this afternoon using the edge method and indeed the tabs are close but not perfectly centered.

The H skew on the green however, is a little off, I think.
It's a little lower on the left than on the right?
What do you think?
Can you see it in the pics?

I'm getting close

Thanks

[CIR Engineering]