CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 1:43 am Post subject:

Oh yes. I forgot to add the shut down happens more when first powered up from cold.

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 2:30 am Post subject:

Ok, run the set with all three HV leads connected, but the focus leads off and CRT sockets off. Run that for a bit and see if we get 191.

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 3:26 am Post subject:

You mean the 2nd set of lead comming off the HV power supply right? Not the orange wires to the sockets?

tse · Joined: 03 May 2006 Posts: 1014 Location: Sweatbucket, Fl.

This is curious. Let me explain the HV restart sequence. The CPU card turns on the HV shortly after turn on (/enable input goes to 0V). It monitors an Overvoltage signal from the HV. Normal state is 0V. If this signal goes high, +2.8 to +5V, it indicates the HV is in a overvoltage condition. The CPU will try to reset the supply by placing 0V on the /OVP reset input. That should bring up the HV and the Overvoltage signal should go back to 0V. If the Overvoltage signal goes high again the CPU will try to reset the HV. This will happen three or four times. After several tries the CPU takes the /enable signal high and displays the HVPS RESTART error message.

The CPU also monitors a Voltage Monitor signal from the HV. This signal is normally a high level when there is HV output present. If this signal goes low it indicates no HV output. When this happens the CPU generates the HVPS SHUTDOWN message. I don't know if the CPU tries to start the supply again or not. It might only try when projector is turned off then turned back on.

Scott

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 6:59 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the info Scott.

That's what I hate about diagnosing intermittant problems.

The CPU seems to be doing exactly what it was designed to do. I got the HVPS RESTART message last night when this happened. I had just hit the power button on the remote and turned around when I heard it so I didn't get a chance to see where the sound came from.

I did not get the HVPS SHUTDOWN message. The projector came up as normal and everything ran fine for the 10 minutes I tested it.

To answer your question. Once the CPU has displayed the HVPS SHUTDOWN you have to push the power button on the remote to make it restart. This is what my first power supply was doing.

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 5:46 am Post subject:

BUMP

EDIT:
Was going to test the neck cards tonight. Changed my mind. Tiredness and HV don't do well together. I'll do it tomorow

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 10:13 pm Post subject:

Just an update on the cards you sent back.

1) LVPS- Main MOSFET transistor shorted- can happen from time to time.
2) HVPS #1- HV restarts- haven't opened it, but I'm suspecting bad solder joints.
3) HVPS #2- checks fine so far, has run ice cold for an hour or so.
4) Video card- works, but very green in tint, so something's up with it as well.

Funny, a customer traded in a 2000 that was a HEAVY smoker. The amount of nicotine crap I pulled out of the set, reminded me of a bar projector. The damn thing had a few failures over time, and the blue tube fungussed out which is why he upgraded to a MArquee 8000, but man, the fact that this 2000 was still running at all was amazing. His set fired right up after I blew the crap out of it. It's what I'm testing your boards in.

Why is it that his worked and yours is flaking out???

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 11:43 pm Post subject:

I think it's the way the stars are aligned to the southern face of my building at this particular height and the humidity level in Toronto every second Tuesday of the 3rd month that the moon's in the new phase. This particular longitude and the way the coaxial TV cable with the Analog feed bisects the projector at a 33 1/3 deg angle. Thus making the magnetic field in the red tube flutter but only on the top half of the immage BUT only on every alternate tusday when the humidity is between 62.3 and 62.35% RH and the air temperature hovers between 24-24.0002 deg C.

I mean. What else could it be?

Wink

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 11:46 pm Post subject:

Oh yes and while I'm remembering I got an add today from a company in BC the specializes in switching power supply repairs. I don't have it handy just now but I'll fire it off to you later. Maybe he can fix some of the potted supplies. I'll call again next week and find out.

The company is called JR Electronics.

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 1:12 am Post subject:

Ok I'm testing the neck boards. I've pulled them off the tubes and disconnected the focusing leads. THey have run for the last 5 hours with no snap crackle or boom.

I'll test them with the focus leads attached next.

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 11:49 pm Post subject:

Ok did a 20 hour test with the focus leads disconected. It was from a cold start and no problems.

Next with the focus leads attached.

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2007 2:56 pm Post subject:

Ran it with the focus leads attached and the neck boards off the tubes. No problem. Did it from a cold start too.
Hmmmmm.....

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 8:42 pm Post subject:

I have the 4000 neck cards out for swapping. I noticed one of the heat sink screws wasn't tightened down. I'll post a pic. I'm just wondering if this wouuld cause problems? Probably.

Pic to follow

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 9:32 pm Post subject:

Ok First here's the pic of the heat sink

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 9:49 pm Post subject:

But I found a bigger problem. Two of the neck boards are of the same design. The Red and the Blue. They both have resistor R22 blown. The Green board is different. No R22 that I can see.

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 9:51 pm Post subject:

Looks like I need two neck boards. Is there anything else I should look at? I've got it all apart now anyways. So any sugestions?

papalek · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 1536 Location: Longs SC

The boards in my 4200 look like the ones with the R22,your red and blue.

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 10:24 pm Post subject:

Hmmm so I wonder which ones were the origional 4000 model neck board?

tse · Joined: 03 May 2006 Posts: 1014 Location: Sweatbucket, Fl.

R22 fries when there is a cathode to heater short inside the tube. A major problem with Sony tubes. Later revision cards have a fix that consists of a diode and resistor put in series with the cathode. Most of the shorts were intermittant and would only happen for a few seconds then clear out and the tube would work ok. I'm pretty sure that the only thing blown on the CRT card was R22 and could be fixed by replacing.

Scott

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 3:05 am Post subject:

Since my tubes apear to be fine and working ok then I shouldn't be worried?

Would this cause the power supply behaviour that I have been seeing? Either the R22 blown out or the tubes shorting for a few seconds?