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diezzler
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 38 Location: Potomac, MD
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| Posted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 3:15 am Post subject: |
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So the holidays are over, and I finally got the projector ceiling mounted and have been working on getting everything setup. Quick question, is it normal for the test pattern to show on the screen and in an area slightly more to the left and smaller of where an image is projector when I'm inputing video to it? It's kind of annoying when I try to do convergence on the screen with the test pattern, and find it not the same when regular video is playing. Is there a way to align the test grid with the video? I did adjust the phase under convergence.
Also, is there a menu for raster centering that includes horizontal, and not just vertical?
Thanks!
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 3:39 am Post subject: |
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your suppose to use an external pattern for final set up. Like the one on DVE disc or the free AVC-HD 709 disc over in the calibration forums on AVS.
The reason is that the source has different timings than the internal patterns, and not all sources are the same. So you may have to make separate memories for each source used.
Athanasios
_________________ Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher
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A Rogers
Joined: 14 Feb 2011 Posts: 133 Location: Toronto On
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| Posted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 5:01 am Post subject: |
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for Raster centering
Adjust /REF. Adjust / Raster position
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diezzler
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 38 Location: Potomac, MD
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| Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 10:51 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for all the help. Yea, I was using different timings that I was spitting out with my vp50, but couldn't get the raster to get where I wanted. I realized that I was using my password, and then used the 315151 and finally got the horizontal raster adjustment that helped me start everything out.
I have now got everything about 90% where I want them. I may redo a few scanrates with their own memory banks, but for the most part, the nec xg setup menu is so well designed and gives so much control, that it was a breeze to get everything setup, and I'm now enjoying a great picture.
The only thing that is bothering me right now is when in 720p (any scan rate) I get a perfect picture, but when in 1080i (any scan rate) I get a faint vertical line/ dark strip down the whole screen. Its about on the grid around 3/100th (from the left) on the screen position and about 2/100th (of the whole image) thick, and I just can seem to get it to go away. It almost appears as if I stuck a transparent ruler vertically on the screen (really faint, which the gf didn't see till I pointed it out, but driving me nuts!). I've tried to play with scanrates, change the porches, adjust the raster (outside the screen to see if it moves with it, which it does), shift the image around, play with amplitude, reset all convergence, etc. Just can't seem to get rid of the sucker. Although, I did notice that if I shifted the image to right with the vp50, the line stayed where it was as the picture moved to the right. But, once I readjusted the picture with shift in the xg menu, it was right there again.
I also tried different sources, and took the vp50 out of the video chain, no luck. The only thing I haven't done yet, is get rid of this "can't live without" hdfury (thinking about getting a moome card).
All this makes me believe it is either the cables from the sources to the projector (Maybe bandwidth/crappy cable? - which I will check tomorrow), the hdfury device (increased strain from the increased resolution), or the projector itself (boards, or maybe card).
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. And as always, thanks for taking the time to read the posts and your time.
cliff
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 2:40 pm Post subject: |
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Adjust blanking on the side where the stripe is.
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diezzler
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 38 Location: Potomac, MD
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| Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 9:22 pm Post subject: |
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Blanking isn't causing the problem, as I have it completely "off", or all edges to 100%.
Although, I can see how it could, in some cases, create a similar problem, as it did on my seleco. I could use blanking to cover the area, but that would be a pretty big area, not to mention I would be cutting off the image.
Also, I'd like to get everyone's opinion on which moome card I should get. I have an opportunity to get an ext-fullhd v3 or the xg-fullhd. Which one would you get? I know the v3 has alot of revisions and mods applied to it, but would be external and still require the rgbhv card in the video chain. The xg-fullhd would be a more direct route to the projector's video, but would lack those mods.
Thanks again
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 9:34 pm Post subject: |
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Just move the blanking in a little bit on that side. Not enough to blank out any active image. Just bring it to the edge of the image and see if that stripe goes away.
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diezzler
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 38 Location: Potomac, MD
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| Posted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 6:22 pm Post subject: |
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I've concluded it's the vp50 in conjunction with the projector itself. I only get the problem with the vp50, and when out of the chain, isn't there. It doesn't matter weather I use the rgbhv output from the processor or the hdmi out with the hdfury. Looks like it's time to get a moome card. Thanks for all the suggestions.
macgyver655: it didn't work, although I could see how if the raster was too maximized it could be hitting the side, or could have been "noise" from outside the viewable image. Thanks for the tip
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diezzler
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 38 Location: Potomac, MD
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| Posted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 6:30 pm Post subject: |
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Also another problem I'm having now is from my stupidity. After reading Guy Kuo's setup guide, i decided to redo everything. Everything was great till I got to astig. I managed to mechanically astig the green and red perfectly, but I'm having trouble with the blue. I think I may have accidentally rotated the 4 pole tab past it's own tab once at some point, or maybe even twice. It's also possible I did this with the 2 pole. I'm not sure if rotating a tab around it's other tab more than once adds to the effect, or if it is just if you rotate a tab 360 degrees around to meet with the other tab on the same pole it's essentially back at neutral??
Eitherway, I just can't get the blue to astig now. I get very oval shapes (basically straight lines), and all sort of other shapes (I even got all arrows pointed up), but no roundness at all to perfect. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I've looked at this guide: https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=10078.html
in aiding me through the process. The only thing I didn't do was "set blue defocus switch to off (deflection board)", no idea where that was or how to do it. I'm guessing this just stop the blue from going out of focus (defocusing) when in the astig menu, which I don't really understand why it's needed.
oh, and I'm terrified to have my hands near the crt. Are there any particular easily "shockable" areas/parts besides the crt sock areas? Is it safe to touch the tube where the cpc magnets are?
Thanks
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 7:01 pm Post subject: |
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| diezzler wrote: |
macgyver655: it didn't work, although I could see how if the raster was too maximized it could be hitting the side, or could have been "noise" from outside the viewable image. Thanks for the tip |
To bad. That was kinda common on the PG's when changing resolutions before making adjustments.
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 7:03 pm Post subject: |
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| diezzler wrote: |
oh, and I'm terrified to have my hands near the crt. Are there any particular easily "shockable" areas/parts besides the crt sock areas? Is it safe to touch the tube where the cpc magnets are?
Thanks |
Wear rubber gloves and don't grab anything sharp that may puncture them.
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diezzler
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 38 Location: Potomac, MD
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| Posted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 11:33 pm Post subject: |
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So I've spent many hours today messing with the blue astig with no success. I also went through countless forum posts and tried all the tips and suggestions stated. I'm done working on it until I can think of something or someone can give me some guidance. I've included a photo of my current cpc magnet orientation.
I started from a blank slate, and reset all settings in the menus. Then did mechanical focusing, then electric focusing via the trim pots. I then went into the center blue focuse and ramped it up to 100%, then went into the astig menu and set it to 70% to get the elongated oval (at least when i first started it would elongate, so i just kept making changes with it at 70%). I next adjusted the 4 pole for roundness and tweaked the 6 pole for any edges pointing out. I could get a perfect circle, only the top part looked as though there was a blue moon or C on the top edge of the circle. I then took center focus to -90 and then adjusted the 2 pole (all pole adjustments were made while in the astig menu for the defocused look). I could never get the "blue center dot" to get within the flare, when adjusting the 2 pole. When i did manage to do so, the flare and dot were now a plus sign. I would then go back and change focus to 100% and i would get a perfect circle, but when i went back to astig with the focus at 100%, the defocused mode (or rather now sine the focus was at 100, the defocused mode of the astig menu would make the dots normal and not defocused) in the astig menu would make it a plus again. If i changed the focus to 0 and astig to 0, the circle would now be sideways thick oval with the darkness of blue back on top, and any astig adjustment in the menu wouldn't correct it enough. I did look at the cross hatch with the current settings of the cpc magnet, and there is a centered flare on the crosshatch which makes me believe the 2 pole is correct (focus at 100 and astig at 70). Just cant figure it out. The instructions i was following, which i posted a link to above, did mention something about turning off blue defocusing on the deflection board, and it did say to enter into astig adjust mode, which was specific to the pg, and i ignored them.
Please help me, its gonna drive me mad...
Maybe someone has got a plus sign in their astig before, and knew which pot to adjust to correct it?
Thanks for the help
Cliff
I will attach the photos from my comp and edit the post.
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| Funny plus sign went settings are neutralized |
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| Crosshatch, that makes me believe 2 pole is correct |
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| Focus at -90, center astig 70, oval type dots |
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| Close up of the round dots in the focus menu at 100%, center astig at 70 |
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| Focus at 100%, Astig at 70, Dots appear round in the focus menu |
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| Astig Setting at 80, but really it was at 70 during the adjustments |
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| Current CPC Magnet Tab Positions |
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Last edited by diezzler on Fri Jan 06, 2012 3:02 pm; edited 1 time in total
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia
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| Posted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 7:28 am Post subject: |
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Even on 1920x1440 im having to side scroll here!!
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diezzler
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 38 Location: Potomac, MD
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| Posted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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Maybe the images were too big? I took them with my iphone, sorry. Maybe i should change the resolution of the pics
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diezzler
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 38 Location: Potomac, MD
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| Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 1:00 pm Post subject: |
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So i pretty much got everything setup as well as possible and will post some pics of the final setup (images not over kill like last time) in a few hours. One thing I've found a little confusing is the settings (porches) on my vp50. I've never had to mess with them, but now with this pj for 1080p i do. Now i can get the picture to fit perfectly, but can't figure out which settings are better to manipulate to make it fit (I have read a few forums, but didn't find one that explains it well). Basically to make the picture fit horizontally, i can either adjust the back porch really high and call it a day, or i can make it medium (78-90) and then change the horizontal sync up, or just use a really high h. sync to make it fit. Now, do any of these matter in terms of which one is better? I'm under the assumption that the increase in the back porch will eat-up pixel clock bandwidth, but will the sync too? Any help with any of the others (V. Sync, front porches)? Maybe point me somewhere that makes a little more sense (wikipedia was a bit vague and hard to understand fully).
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