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1031



Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 657
Location: Finland

Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 8:04 am    Post subject:

Nashou66 wrote:


Still waiting for the higher value 680kohm resistors to see if i can eliminate the tube intesity problem's


Chips came here also, those 680k ohms was not stock items here in Finland so i think that i add 120k ohmites series to those 560k.
Maybe i got time to do those at nextweek.
I must say that if i combine all money that i have spend to components to modify marquee, that summ must be near/over that what MP mods costīs Shocked
But iīm "diy" person and i like to test all by my self, this is fun hobby Mr. Green

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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 2:22 pm    Post subject:

Hi Jarmo! Which chips did you get? the ones for the focus board? the TLE Excalibur series of op amps are nice because of thier
low noise and they are not finicky even though they have a higher slew rate than the original one they replace (TL07x/08x and MC3407x/8x).
Yes the 680 ohmites are on back order for me too, i would not use the added resitor another solder point at thet high voltage just doesnt sound
to safe to me.

Athanasios

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1031



Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 657
Location: Finland

Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 3:23 pm    Post subject:

Yes, those for fcm. Now its only issue to found some time to do those mods.
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Marquee 9500LC (Frankenyokes / Thomas electric tubes / HD-10L / +many modīs)
DVDO VP-50
New hobby, Rally
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vX2Rtpr1njs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZP9FEFXV5c
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 2:14 am    Post subject:

I have been practicing on an old 2005-03p VIM before I atempt my 2035-02 and 2035-03 Vims. I changed all the op-amps except the internal video CL430's. Used the data sheet speced caps for the power buffering and added 100pf caps across all those. changed out some of the tants with i higher value///however i had to remove soem as they drew to much power nad the set would power down and one again, I plan to lower the value of those caps a bit and retest. I mist say this old out of date vim looks very good, i would dare to say better than the 2035-02p stock Vim. Deep blacks with out any crush, colors are very natural even the pastels which are hard to get right according to Mike Parker Who is our insperation for all this Marquee maintanence and upgradeing. I am no Electrical engineer so i dont understand all things i did completly but understand the concept. Main thing I was out to accomplish was to ,lower the noise floor of the Projector. This drop would be equivalent to increasing the output of the projector with out cranking up the contrast. By useing lower noise chips, faster higher bandwidth video op amps and the proper rated coupling caps for those video amps This vim Is great! I put in my stock 2035-03p in to watch a movie and after 10 minutes I thought " no way does my old Vim look better or as good. So I swaped out the new Vim for my Extensivley moded 2005-03p vim and new that this was a great upgrade and if i use the same philosophy on the 2035-03p vim i'll really have a great picture. And this is with out me doing a coplete and thourough set up.
I should also say that I have moded my neck borads to Jeahong Lees sugestions and Also did a complete cap and chip change on the Focus Modual And the power rail caps on the CLM (more caps and chip changes to come on that board). I still also have to do the Vertical deflection modual and convergance modual And the chip change to the same ones i Used on the vim for the neck boards.
I have another set of different op amps i plan to put on my second older spare Vim. These will need more work as iI think they will need feedback resitors chaged out as well as the coupling caps. but first i want to complete all the other boards before i take on that Vim.
Now I am doing this just to learn and for fun and should warn that I am doing this with risk to possibly damaging my Projector but I have a spare so I can take the risks. I will post on the relliability of the VIM mod as I think the others are fairly safe since they are just newer better part replacements with no real change of demands from the power supplies. And I am still waiting on the higher value resistor change on the HVPS to elliminate the Tube intesity Anomoly some here have noticed with the mod to that board.

Any how here are some pics i took today. not a full set up I must say. still need to get the grey scale but figure why bother till i finish all the mods.
Also my pause feature sucks on my LG BH100, useing a Fuji F10 camera that seems to add some red push.

Marquee 8500 Mods so far, HVPS,CLM(partial),Focus board, Neck boards, HD144's, Enermax LVPS fans/Dynamat sound deadening, And my 2005-03p VIM Mod/Upgrade.

@1080p48Hz


















Athanasios

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barcoguy



Joined: 05 Feb 2008
Posts: 128


Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 3:58 am    Post subject:

WOW! that looks nice.


I can't wait until I am there!

I goofed! I damaged one of the amps on the V board while trying to remove the heat sink clips. Does anyone have a source on this?
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sundance



Joined: 17 Sep 2007
Posts: 1


Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 5:45 pm    Post subject: I'm in

Depending on the cost I am in!

Steve
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 6:49 pm    Post subject: Re: I'm in

sundance wrote:
Depending on the cost I am in!

Steve


I havnt figured out the cost yet but the chips you can get free samples form the manufacturer. the caps i looked up on E-bay and if i could find the exact ones i got them from Newark. I always order triple what i need incase i need them from messing up. so far no mess ups ! I am going to do the same mods to my newer boards eventually but still am looking to replace more tantalums with better speced ones that wont cause the power supply to shut down and restart. I had 33uf tants and used those all over but had to remove three and put originals back in to get it to work. I am also looking at removing the audio section form the power path to reduce the draw. Maybey this will allow the higher value caps to be used.

Its been alot of work just changing a few parts , putting the Vim back in watching an hour of video, taking it out , adding more parts....re testing...ect, ect, ect. I do this so if a problem arises its easier to go back and change out the parts i put in.
I only do one section at a time. For example I added the op amps on the front end of the video chain for one color and tested it, it worked so I went and changed the others to even out the output of the tubes...watched for a little, then swaped out the coupling caps for the chips and watched some more....repeated this for all sections, this also let me see what difference's the changed parts made.

The op-amps and the coupling caps made the biggest difference, then the cap changes to the caps near the board connector. I am still waiting for the inductors I want to add on thos rails Like MP does on his CLM board...I think it will help hear as well.

I havnt decided if I want to do this for people or list all the parts I think I'll do the latter since It was fun learning and others should give it try on the old boards to: see if they can do it, like the results and decide if its worth it to do on the better boards. I'm sure most have bought new boards and keept the old vim incase its needed.

Hope every one is having as much fun with this Hobby as I have the past year.

Athanasios

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Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher


"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

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PaulB



Joined: 26 Oct 2007
Posts: 359
Location: Bonnie (but rainy) Scotland

Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 10:10 pm    Post subject: Re: I'm in

Nashou66 wrote:



Hope every one is having as much fun with this Hobby as I have the past year.

Athanasios


Well I am for one and a lot of that is down to you Athanasios, thank you for all your efforts.
Paul
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 11:32 pm    Post subject:

Here are some more screen shots from the 2005-03p Vim mod. Still crapy pause function from my player, it adds noise and isn't a sharp frame clip as a result...Looks much nicer in person. Still not properly color calibrated either.

















Athanasios

_________________
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"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 2:33 am    Post subject:

Some changes to the incoming power lines on the old Vim and cap changes on the CLM about 40 so far another 60 or so to go !. here are a few more shots...12 foot screen contrast and brightness @ 50.









This on you can see my convergance isn't 100%



This one i like the subtle color variations in the pic especially the foilage in the back ground..this is what Mike P is always talking about. it gives images a more 3D look.



Athanasios

_________________
Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher


"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 5:59 pm    Post subject:

Did some work on the CLM this time. changed out the three op amps that control the focus wave forms these are those noisy distortive op amps same as i changed on the focus boards. u73,76 and 82 not all clms are the same so they might be different on older boards. I also took out the ceramic caps for these and out in a 1uf smt A case tantalum and also a 22uf diped tantalum.

some pics : all blu-ray via LG bh100>lumagen HDQ>moome Vim-HD> modded 2006-03p VIM 8500 marquee.

Sunshine

















This is my Favorite of the bunch Smile



Athanasios

PS: I added up most of the parts for the 2006-03p vim mods and it came to under 100 bucks from newark. some parts can be gotten for free from the chip makers and some of the caps i got from e-bay. but this is a list if you had to buy all the parts from a vendor. Also the 15uf caps i found on e-bay i use as some replacements for some 10uf caps on newark(TIM156K050P0Z) are 85 bucks each!!!! I think there not made and thats why they are so high not sure but i got 25 for 21 bucks Very Happy

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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 10:32 pm    Post subject:

Ok, Every who was holding off on doing the HVPS mod because of some reports of the problem that when one color is being displayed(using the one tube on function) that the other tubes are also still on much brighter than before the mod. The required resistors are 560kohm ceramics 1-2 watt. After doing the mod and checking the value of the old resistors i found mine to be 680k average. I had this anomaly also after the mod. I thought that maybe those crapy carbon comp resistors where that far off even new...so i ordered some 680k ceramics and finally got them in today(back ordered). I instaled them a few hours ago and watched a movie. All is well again. the tube intesity anomaly is gone. no change to G2's needed. so you might want to spend the extra money and order both types. the speced value and a set of the value of one of the removed resistors. This way if you get that anomaly you can swap out resistors.

Athanasios

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"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

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AnalogRocks
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Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G

Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 10:39 pm    Post subject:

So the manual spec's 560kohm but you had to put 680kohm back in there to get proper tube brightness?
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 12:57 am    Post subject:

AnalogRocks wrote:
So the manual spec's 560kohm but you had to put 680kohm back in there to get proper tube brightness?



Not to get the right tube brightness, but to eliminate the inadvertant one tube or all three tubes being on when you select only one tube being on. So when displaying the cross hatch pattern or an image from a source for that matter, select color>1>enter only the red tube should be on and the other tubes should be off completely or have just a faint image showing on the green(blue usually is not affected with red only on) do the same for each color 2 is green and 3 is blue. With the 560k resistors some have reported this anomaly of the other tube being lit very bright to the point it shows up on the screen( I had this problem). So I wondered why this was happening, I thought there must be more power getting to the tubes. Something was affecting the circuits on the vim i thought. But looked at the schematics and couldn't really see where the g2 goes into the vim at all but I may have missed something in the schematics. So i decided to measure the old resistors I took out. they were all closer to 680k than the 560 markings they should be. On AVS a memeber Teonaki was the one who brought this to our attention in a thread. I suggested my findings of the higher value old resistors and posed the question...what if we put in the same value or just under the measured value of the old resistor. He tried it by putting in closer to the value he pulled out and the problem went away. So my theory worked for him and I tried it just now and found the same results. Only one movie has been watched so far so for reliability I have no Idea but I dont think it should hurt since the Higher value would actually be restricting the g2 going to the vnb and tubes.
This hasn't happened to everyone, mike Parker says he hasnt noticed it on his HVPS mods he's done. But i think if your not looking for it you wont notice it. I had my mod hvps in for two months before i read that thread and noticed t on both my projectors.

So I suggest since this doesnt happen to everyone do the mod with the 560k first if you notice this anomaly then measure your old resistors and if they are all close in value to each other then get new ones close to that value and just under. Mine read around 690, and I chose 680 and all is good now.


Athanasios

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Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher


"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

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AnalogRocks
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Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G

Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 1:12 am    Post subject:

Thanks for the clarification.
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 3:43 am    Post subject:

Something I forgot to look for after i put in the higher value resistors. With 560k resistors i saw a slight decrease in back ground noise but not that much the thing i really noticed was the deeper blacks. Now the blacks are still as good but the noise i saw on the green and blue tubes has dramaticly decreased compared to the original 560k. So if you have that problem with tube intensity definitely put in the value that is closest to your old resistors. Now remember, I also changed out the caps to a higher quality cap and all other ceramic resistors in that supply.

here are some screen shots of Shoot em' Up...Fun Movie!













Athanasios

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Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher


"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

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PaulB



Joined: 26 Oct 2007
Posts: 359
Location: Bonnie (but rainy) Scotland

Posted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 8:42 am    Post subject:

As always, struggling to find certain parts in the UK at a reasonable price ($30 added to order price!).

Will this do for the HVPS at C6 and C3 (1uf 400vdc) http://uk.farnell.com/1413833/passive-components/product.us0?sku=VISHAY-MKT1813510405 ? (Or this perhaps http://uk.farnell.com/1413929/passive-components/product.us0?sku=VISHAY-MKP1839510404 )

And these for HVPS C1 and C2 (0.47uf 600vdc) http://uk.farnell.com/1166880/passive-components/product.us0?sku=VISHAY-ROEDERSTEIN-MKT1813-447-63-5-G ?

Two of these are axial polyester caps instead of axial polypropylene - does this make a difference?

I hate having to ask what I suspect is very basic questions, sorry.

Many thanks guys,
Paul
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 1:01 pm    Post subject:

I used these parts, for the .47uf vishay # MKP1845447634 http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=18M2493

and the 1uf cap i used: sprague # V-735P105X9400L http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=37M0653

from newark which gets parts from farnell also.

but if they have the same specs then it should be fine.

Athanasios

_________________
Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher


"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

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tse



Joined: 03 May 2006
Posts: 1014
Location: Sweatbucket, Fl.

Posted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 1:33 pm    Post subject:

PaulB wrote:


Two of these are axial polyester caps instead of axial polypropylene - does this make a difference?

Many thanks guys,
Paul


It could. Polypropylene caps are generally better performing caps (lower series resistance) than polyester.

Scott

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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 1:47 pm    Post subject:

tse wrote:
PaulB wrote:


Two of these are axial polyester caps instead of axial polypropylene - does this make a difference?

Many thanks guys,
Paul


It could. Polypropylene caps are generally better performing caps (lower series resistance) than polyester.

Scott


Hmmm This has me thinking of of the weird tube intensity problem i have had. If the old caps were polyester and have a higher series resistance then that would explain when I replaced all the parts on the HVPS the 560kohm caps were too low a resistance. The new caps I put in were the polypropylene type(lower resistance) thus lowering the overall resistance of that circuit. Then By raising the resitance of the ceramic resistors The problem was solved. Can this be the case TSE?

Athanasios

_________________
Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher


"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

One Smart Dog!!!

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