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BG1209s video noise in dark scenes on green tube
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Tom.W



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6635


Posted: Sun May 29, 2011 7:08 am    Post subject:

So if I have this straight you ask a question get suggestions and do nothing....

Just live with it !!! Rolling Eyes
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opv



Joined: 18 May 2010
Posts: 202
Location: Emek Hefer,Israel

Posted: Sun May 29, 2011 7:18 am    Post subject:

Tom.W wrote:
So if I have this straight you ask a question get suggestions and do nothing....

Live with it !!! Rolling Eyes


Don't take it like that,
My wife had her birthday this weekend so I didn't get the opportunity yet. Embarassed
Besides that, I'm still trying to understand whats the safest way to debug this problem with minimal damage to me or the PJ.
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opv



Joined: 18 May 2010
Posts: 202
Location: Emek Hefer,Israel

Posted: Sun May 29, 2011 9:17 pm    Post subject:

OK,
Thanks to Tom's detailed explanation, I manged to adjust the G2 and get all the three LEDs off, including the green.
Now that the hood is open I can also tell there are no arcing.
I can still see the retrace on the green tube face.
What should I do next?
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Tom.W



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6635


Posted: Sun May 29, 2011 10:48 pm    Post subject:

You could just live with the G2 short on the GreenCRT and see if it goes away by itself or find a new,or in good condition used, Green CRT tube. Personally I would try the Sencore first.

Even if the Sencore doesn't clear the short you need it to check the the replacement tube before you pay to have it replaced and installed.

Even a tube with no phosphor wear can still have low emissions or a G2, G1 short or an open filament...........
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macgyver655



Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508


Posted: Mon May 30, 2011 1:04 am    Post subject:

opv wrote:
OK,
Thanks to Tom's detailed explanation, I manged to adjust the G2 and get all the three LEDs off, including the green.
Now that the hood is open I can also tell there are no arcing.
I can still see the retrace on the green tube face.
What should I do next?


What does this retrace you see look like?
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opv



Joined: 18 May 2010
Posts: 202
Location: Emek Hefer,Israel

Posted: Mon May 30, 2011 6:05 am    Post subject:

macgyver655 wrote:
opv wrote:
OK,
Thanks to Tom's detailed explanation, I manged to adjust the G2 and get all the three LEDs off, including the green.
Now that the hood is open I can also tell there are no arcing.
I can still see the retrace on the green tube face.
What should I do next?


What does this retrace you see look like?

It looks like random green lines running on the tube, mostly horizontal.
I noticed something else when I adjusted the G2, I have 3-4 equally spaced diagonal lines on the green and blue tubes, also un-noticeable on the screen.
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Tom.W



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6635


Posted: Mon May 30, 2011 9:23 am    Post subject:

Does it look anything like this ?

http://www.epanorama.net/documents/groundloop/index.html
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opv



Joined: 18 May 2010
Posts: 202
Location: Emek Hefer,Israel

Posted: Mon May 30, 2011 9:30 am    Post subject:

Tom.W wrote:
Does it look anything like this ?

http://www.epanorama.net/documents/groundloop/index.html


it looks similar to the first picture on this thread:
https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=11666.html

But in my case, it's only noticeable when you look into the tube.
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opv



Joined: 18 May 2010
Posts: 202
Location: Emek Hefer,Israel

Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:22 am    Post subject:

well, the problem came back.
And besides the noise, it looks like the green tube brightness is pumping, like a bad dynamic iris in a digital projector.
I connected a power filter I have before the projector but it didn't do any good.
I need to see if something around the green tube is loosely connected, I have no other direction.
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Tom.W



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6635


Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 5:06 pm    Post subject:

Ever try swapping neck boards yet ?
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1031



Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 657
Location: Finland

Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 7:45 pm    Post subject:

opv wrote:
well, the problem came back.
And besides the noise, it looks like the green tube brightness is pumping, like a bad dynamic iris in a digital projector.
I connected a power filter I have before the projector but it didn't do any good.
I need to see if something around the green tube is loosely connected, I have no other direction.


Did you testet that "run in cycles"?? if not, try it now! If there is "some loose dirt" between tubes elements, that run in cycles function can "burn" that dirt away.

_________________
Marquee 9500LC (Frankenyokes / Thomas electric tubes / HD-10L / +many modīs)
DVDO VP-50
New hobby, Rally
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vX2Rtpr1njs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZP9FEFXV5c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j065vei6j6s
http://www.facebook.com/pages/JTS-Racing-team/204443719572685
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Tom.W



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6635


Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 7:52 pm    Post subject:

1031 wrote:
opv wrote:
well, the problem came back.
And besides the noise, it looks like the green tube brightness is pumping, like a bad dynamic iris in a digital projector.
I connected a power filter I have before the projector but it didn't do any good.
I need to see if something around the green tube is loosely connected, I have no other direction.


Did you testet that "run in cycles"?? if not, try it now! If there is "some loose dirt" between tubes elements, that run in cycles function can "burn" that dirt away.



Has anyone else ever had this really work to clear a contamination short ?

Loose dirt is a bad analogy Wink
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1031



Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 657
Location: Finland

Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 8:12 am    Post subject:

Tom.W wrote:



Has anyone else ever had this really work to clear a contamination short ?

Loose dirt is a bad analogy Wink[/quote]

Laughing that shows my (lack of) english skils.

That run in cycles cannott actually "burn" shorts away, but if tube has really "small" impurities between elements (cathode, G-1,Heater ect..) that flashing between black/white field can take those away. Frend of mine had 808 barco that had about 8000 hours on meter, he told that once that barco started to have symptoms like tubes never turned totally off etc.. He runned that run in cycles about 24 hours and that cured that problem.

_________________
Marquee 9500LC (Frankenyokes / Thomas electric tubes / HD-10L / +many modīs)
DVDO VP-50
New hobby, Rally
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vX2Rtpr1njs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZP9FEFXV5c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j065vei6j6s
http://www.facebook.com/pages/JTS-Racing-team/204443719572685
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opv



Joined: 18 May 2010
Posts: 202
Location: Emek Hefer,Israel

Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 8:39 am    Post subject:

well, I'm giving the run in cycle a shot for the last two hours, didn't notice any change.
I tried tapping on the green tube, no luck there.
Swapping the neck boards is something I don't want to do by my self, it seems more complicated than just taking out one of the boards in the back of the PJ and I'm afraid I might cause damage.
something else I noticed is a weak gargling sound coming from the green tube when I put my ear closer to the tubes.
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royuk



Joined: 28 Dec 2007
Posts: 41


Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 3:25 am    Post subject:

I had the same issue with the diagonal lines and pumping brightness. Also in dark scenes when the image was supposed to be black it would remain too bright. Couldn't go full black. In my case from what i can remember, it turned out to be the neck card. I just changed it for another one i bought, so i can only suggest you try it. I had no experience and done it myself with alot of care, of course. The main thing is in being careful not to bend any of the connection pins when replacing it.
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opv



Joined: 18 May 2010
Posts: 202
Location: Emek Hefer,Israel

Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 7:21 am    Post subject:

royuk wrote:
I had the same issue with the diagonal lines and pumping brightness. Also in dark scenes when the image was supposed to be black it would remain too bright. Couldn't go full black. In my case from what i can remember, it turned out to be the neck card. I just changed it for another one i bought, so i can only suggest you try it. I had no experience and done it myself with alot of care, of course. The main thing is in being careful not to bend any of the connection pins when replacing it.

Hi royuk,
I actually read your post when I searched for posts that describe similar problems to my problem.
From what I understand from Tom, this problem is a sympthom of a bad neck board like in your case or a shortened tube.
I looked at the neck board and I'm not feeling comfortable with disconnecting it myself, I'll need to find me a Barco tech. for that.

BTW, the run in cycle I tried improved thing allot. the problem is reduced and once again I can only see it on the tube and not on the screen. I have a feeling, however, that this is not the end of it, and I'll have to replace some HW in order to get rid of the problem completely.
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Tom.W



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6635


Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 4:20 pm    Post subject:

Quote :

I'll need to find me a Barco tech. for that...


Well good luck !

You might be able to get some help if you list your location.

CRT projector techs are few and far between so you need to do or learn what you can.

Just sayin...
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opv



Joined: 18 May 2010
Posts: 202
Location: Emek Hefer,Israel

Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 6:18 pm    Post subject:

Tom.W wrote:
Quote :

I'll need to find me a Barco tech. for that...


Well good luck !

You might be able to get some help if you list your location.

CRT projector techs are few and far between so you need to do or learn what you can.

Just sayin...

I'm from Israel, I assume you don't know Barco tech there, or do you?! Confused
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zGman



Joined: 22 May 2006
Posts: 599


Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 6:35 pm    Post subject:

I seem to recall that very similar symptoms can be caused by a
bad anode lead or poor connection in the anode circuit from
splitter.

It you are still hearing noise around tube, power down PJ completely-
wait a while and try a few things. Always power down and wait
before making any personal contact with the anodes or HV circuits.

Not too hard to check the anode wires - if they are black with HV soot,
and or running too close to metal chassis, you can clean and relocate.

It can also be helpful to clean the brass contacts on the splitter end
of the anode lead and be certain they are well seated in the splitter.

G
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