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new g70, will need some help
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ecrabb
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Joined: 13 Mar 2006
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TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 5:53 pm    Post subject:

km987654 wrote:
A reality check please. That's not expensive. Rolling Eyes

It all depends on your perspective. Maybe it's not expensive by your standards, but if a guy drops $500 of what little money he has laying around to buy a new projector, and then has to spend $150 more on two pieces of plastic, then yeah - that's expensive. In the grand scheme of people spending $50,000 on their rooms, $150 is no big deal. But, for others, it is.

SC
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ecrabb
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TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 5:59 pm    Post subject:

REGNAD wrote:
i currently have a self built 107" screen of blackout material. its served me well but i want a real screen now with this g70. the blackout material bleeds light to bad. i wouldnt mind going bigger but i would have to spread my Magnepans, and i cant be having that! my dedicated room if roughly 18x30 with a bar in the rear. 107" ok for this pj?

I'm running a 110" 16:9 (96" x 54") Wilsonart and I really like it. It has developed a little bump on the seam between the two sheets of MDF because I was too lazy to biscuit the joint and fill it, but you can't see it with a projected image - only when the lights above the screen shine down on it.

SC


Last edited by ecrabb on Mon Feb 21, 2011 9:49 pm; edited 1 time in total
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REGNAD



Joined: 15 Oct 2006
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Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 9:47 pm    Post subject:

not expensive, but dont have it. working on selling some gear now. do i need to consider replacing the glycol when i do this? i assume ill need some to top things off?
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Zebu Fellenz



Joined: 21 Dec 2006
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Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 12:56 am    Post subject:

REGNAD wrote:
not expensive, but dont have it. working on selling some gear now. do i need to consider replacing the glycol when i do this? i assume ill need some to top things off?


You shouldn't need to replace the glycol but it would be a good opportunity to if the glycol is cloudy or dirty. You should have a little on hand to replace whatever you spill.
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REGNAD



Joined: 15 Oct 2006
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Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 1:22 am    Post subject:

can that stuff be had at local stores? home depot or drug store or something? also, how do you tell if it needs to be replaced with out taking it out? or can you?
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REGNAD



Joined: 15 Oct 2006
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Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2011 8:18 pm    Post subject:

so i have my new c-elements on their way, thx Curt, since the tubes are the same size between the g70 and 1252 that i have now. and the bolt pattern is even the same to mount to ceiling, is it safe to say that the same amount of tube will be used to project on the same screen?? does that make sense? Razz
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ecrabb
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Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2011 8:32 pm    Post subject:

Mmm... I didn't think the G70 and 12xx had the same mount pattern... Could be wrong I guess, but I'm pretty sure the 12xx was two bolts and the G70 is three, and even the back two are spaced differently...

I moved the G70 back from my 12xx mounting location a little because the throw on the G70 is slightly longer and I didn't want quite such an aggressive raster usage. From all the reading I did, if you get too aggressive with the raster usage maximization (short throw), the G70 gets tough to converge and get decent focus in the corners.

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REGNAD



Joined: 15 Oct 2006
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Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2011 11:56 pm    Post subject:

i rechecked and it looks like the same exact hole pattern. ecrabb, what throw distance would you recommend for my 107" screen? i dont want to sacrifice clarity for tube use. does reducing the tube surface use reduce max resolvable resolution?
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AFryia



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
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Posted: Sat Mar 19, 2011 4:12 pm    Post subject:

107 wide or 107 diag.?

If you want to be conservative on raster size use the PJCalc values or the tables in the manual for throw distance. Or say 95% of that value.

I don't know about resolution but reduced raster size will make setting up geometry easier.

REGNAD wrote:
i rechecked and it looks like the same exact hole pattern. ecrabb, what throw distance would you recommend for my 107" screen? i dont want to sacrifice clarity for tube use. does reducing the tube surface use reduce max resolvable resolution?
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CIR Engineering



Joined: 25 Aug 2008
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Posted: Sat Mar 19, 2011 6:13 pm    Post subject:

Just my $0.02, I wouldn't bother getting any glycol unless you find that you need it. G70's almost never have degraded glycol so you have a very good chance of finding that it is perfect when you remove the CElements. Look into the blue tube with the lens off. Does the glycol look clear, or does it have any yellowish tint at all. If it has any yellow at all than replace the glycol in all three tubes.

*the reason I say look into the blue tube is because the blue has a clear CElement and you can detect the yellowing with the CElement in place. Just because blue might be clear does not necessarily mean that red and green will also be ok, but it is a good indicator.

If you are careful you won't need to to add any glycol after you change the CElement; the bladders on the G70's are very large. Most likely you will trap some extra air when you install the new CElements, so be sure to bleed all the air out through the fill hole after you replace the elements. Just remove the fill screw and then push on the rubber bellows until a drop of glycol comes out the fill hole. Hold the bellow in that position and put the screw back in. Clean everything up with water and denatured alcohol when finished.

If you do need glycol you can get it from MCM.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/20-4275

If you want to replace all three tubes with new glycol, I think the G70 will take about four bottles.

craigr

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CIR Engineering



Joined: 25 Aug 2008
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Posted: Sat Mar 19, 2011 6:27 pm    Post subject:

CIR Engineering wrote:


If you are careful you won't need to to add any glycol after you change the CElement; the bladders on the G70's are very large. Most likely you will trap some extra air when you install the new CElements, so be sure to bleed all the air out through the fill hole after you replace the elements. Just remove the fill screw and then push on the rubber bellows until a drop of glycol comes out the fill hole. Hold the bellow in that position and put the screw back in. Clean everything up with water and denatured alcohol when finished.

Alternately, you can skip bleeding out the air. You could leave the two tubes in the projector if the projector is not on the ceiling yet.

Just pull the rear G70 handles out as you would when you carry the projector. Stand the G70 up on its ass end on the handles. Lean the G70 against a wall on an angle such that the tube housings are horizontally level. Make sure that the tubes are horizontal or you will have a huge mess (you could even use a level.

Once horizontal, just pop out the CElements one at a time and replace them. A little extra air will really not hurt anything. This way if you feel uncomfortable removing the tubes you don't even have to Wink A little glycol will possible leak out the sides when you install the new elements. Just clean this up with a 50/50 denatured alcohol water mix.

Good luck!

craigr

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REGNAD



Joined: 15 Oct 2006
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Location: RICHMOND VA

Posted: Sat Mar 19, 2011 8:53 pm    Post subject:

i havnt mounted the pj yet, but im liking the idea of standing it on its ass. i really dont want to remove the lens. what can i clean the replacement elements with before installing them?



edit, i just finished installing the two elements. i set the pj on its ass and leveled each tube as i went. ZERO spilage, glycol nice and clear. i used a soft t-shirt and ho6 breaths to clean the elements before lowering into glycol. final "approach" seating the element from one side to the other "pinching"the air out as i went.

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draganm



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Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 1:10 am    Post subject:

REGNAD wrote:
i havnt mounted the pj yet, but im liking the idea of standing it on its ass. i really dont want to remove the lens. what can i clean the replacement elements with before installing them?
keep in mind the Glycol is corrosive, so if you spill any it will run straight down into the machine and destroy it. I would pull the tubes out personally, only risk there is bending the pins on the back of the tubes, be careful here.
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CIR Engineering



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Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 1:34 pm    Post subject:

draganm wrote:
keep in mind the Glycol is corrosive, so if you spill any it will run straight down into the machine and destroy it. I would pull the tubes out personally, only risk there is bending the pins on the back of the tubes, be careful here.

Well, draganm is a friend of mine and he has a point. However, keep in mind that there are other risks in pulling tubes if you are not experienced include snapping off a tube neck, missing wire connections upon reinstall, wiring incorrectly, putting everything back together and something or everything not working, cracking a neck card... every strategy has risks.

A G70 CElement comes out a lot easier than a Marquee often does which is what draganm has most experience with. The G70 CElements won't be glued in or stuck. If you make certain that the top of the housings that hold the CElements are level you aren't going to spill any amount of glycol. One or two drops around the rim won't hurt anything as long as you don't let any drip into the projector. Just wipe up the little bit of glycol seepage that you might get around the edges of the CElement after you install the new ones.

REGNAD wrote:
i havnt mounted the pj yet, but im liking the idea of standing it on its ass. i really dont want to remove the lens. what can i clean the replacement elements with before installing them?

I gotta say REGNAD that if you don't want to put the tiny little effort into removing the blue lens to inspect the glycol you may want to reconsider changing the red and green CElements. Seriously, pulling a lens is nothing, and changing two CElements is more than nothing. I am not trying to be a cynic, but don't bite off more than you can chew. You can wind up ruining your G70 in more ways than one here.

Kind regards,
craigr

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ecrabb
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Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 1:42 pm    Post subject:

Anybody can take out four screws to take off a lens... I bet he just meant to write that he didn't want to remove the tube, Craig.

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CIR Engineering



Joined: 25 Aug 2008
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Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 1:47 pm    Post subject:

ecrabb wrote:
Anybody can take out four screws to take off a lens... I bet he just meant to write that he didn't want to remove the tube, Craig.

SC

Ah, you may be right. I was a little concerned when I read that this morning... but I didn't finish my coffee yet so my head is not quite here yet Wink

Thanks
craigr

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Light Illusion ColourSpace XPT Color Calibration Software
Light Illusion LightSpace XPT Pro Version 10.x Color Calibration Software
OMARDRIS JVC Software Patch to use K10-A and Jeti with JVC OEM AutoCal Software!
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Spanky Ham



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Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 3:09 pm    Post subject:

What Craig said. The c-element removal is easy.
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REGNAD



Joined: 15 Oct 2006
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Location: RICHMOND VA

Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 4:47 pm    Post subject:

yeah, i meant to say the tube. i have replaced the elements, didnt even push any glycol up onto the sealing surface of the rubber membrane dohicky< Razz i have it sitting on table now, no seapage, figuring out my throw distance and what im going to have to do to remove 1252, patch things, and install new pj. ill be looking for some designer white next week. id like to go slightly bigger than 107 but id be forced to push my magnapans wider and i cant be having that!
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REGNAD



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Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 8:49 pm    Post subject:

ecrabb, whats your throw distance to tube face, on your 110" screen?
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REGNAD



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Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 1:36 am    Post subject:

so i measured my distance from tube face to screen on my 1252 and its at 127" this is where i set it to make use of the most phosphor. comparing manuals of the 1252 and g70 i see that the g70 has roughly 3" shorter throw distance. tubes being the same size, if i have the g70 3" closer at 124" i should be using the same amount of tube face as in the 1252. do you guys agree? Ecrabb mentioned not maxing out the face for better edge focus, im not shure which way to go with this.
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