CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

s2bill · Joined: 01 Nov 2010 Posts: 11

Newcomer here.....Have a Barco projector that I've used for several years. Recently the picture would go black after a time operating. Upon shutting it off and letting it rest, it would function normally again. Input choices don't matter. Now the projector still comes on; but no picture from the start. There is a scan fail red led that is lit, as well as a +HTHD yellow led that flashes. All other leds on that specific panel are yellow and lit. one of the occassions that it went out, I noticed a flash of a info box that said something about I2c, or Ic2 error. This flashed very quickly and so I'm not sure what it said. The other bank of red leds has processor cycles flashing; but thinking that's always done that. Some of the other leds on this panel aren't lit, some are. I don't have any spare boards for this projector. I have a Sony 1042 that I could use instead, but already have the Barco mounted, remotes programed, and the convergence set, so I'd like to repair this one if not too hard or expensive......any ideas please?

jkruger · Joined: 24 Oct 2007 Posts: 2435 Location: Carlsbad, CA

Which model is it?

s2bill · Joined: 01 Nov 2010 Posts: 11

I forgot to mention that when the screen went black, I could see the rasters (all 3) float to the top of the screen. Also there is a rapid clicking sound that has begun that seems to be something trying to work. The pace may coincide with the flashing +HTHD led. Thanks

s2bill · Joined: 01 Nov 2010 Posts: 11

Thought it was a Barco 600, but manuals I received on purchase are for an 801. Can't remember if that was the correct mode or just the only manuals they had. Will check on unit next time I'm home......have to find that on the projector though.....

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 7:03 pm Post subject:

Post pictures of the guts, then we can help.

s2bill · Joined: 01 Nov 2010 Posts: 11

I took pictures of the prjector and it's "guts". files apparently are too large to upload here. However. info from manufacurer's tag as follows:

Manufacture date Jan 93
Barco Data 800 Chasis 49
Art NR 90 00549
ser nr 1043880

Does this give you the needed info?

Thanks, Bill

BTW, jpeg files over 1m. How do I convert to allowed ext and size?

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 3:46 pm Post subject:

Yes, that's a late model Barco Data 800. If the pix goes out when the scan fail comes on, then you have power supply, V board or H board issues. At this point I can either sell you those boards for cheap, but you're probably better off getting yours repaired and modded for reliability since they are already calibrated for your set. Figure on $100-150 incl return shipping to repair and upgrade them.

The I2R error message is probably bad solder joints on the convergence board. I'd ignore that for now, as repairs are very time consuming and expensive. If you can solder, pull the board, look for cracked joints and repair it yourself. No parts required. Smile

Let me know if you want to send the 3 boards in.

s2bill · Joined: 01 Nov 2010 Posts: 11

Sounds like a plan. I'm in Indiana, what is the expected turnaround time? Checking the manual you have online, it looks like Power supply is 76-1770, Horz is 76-1766, vert is 76-1768 correct? When I turn on the projector, I don't see ANY rasters in the lenses when viewing from the front. Seems like that would limit likely problem to the power supply....right? I've also glanced over your setup instructions...learned a lot. Learned I need to go back to square one. as I remember, green grid was maybe a touch outside before blanking when I did it the first time. Also focus instructions make me think I can do better than I did. For broadcast (cable) signals, I'm using a rg-59 coax cable for the video feed from a VCR. Blew out the video input once, replaced the diode bridge, and now unplug ALL cables when not in use and try to avoid using during a thunderstorm. Would a different type cable correct that? Using S video input from my DVD player. Would buying a high def DVR with outputs that I could use the high def inputs on the projector for broadcast (cable) signals....long way between the equipment though...20+ feet.....help the picture much when back up and running? Special cables needed for that or can I build those out of rg-59 coax? On a tight budget here.

s2bill · Joined: 01 Nov 2010 Posts: 11

BTW....If I'm starting over anyway, how cheap is cheap to buy different boards?

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 8:00 pm Post subject:

2-3 day turnaround. No, send all three boards in, a short on the H or V board will shut down the power supply. Trust me, I've repaired 100s of these, and there's no charge to test the boards anyways. Smile

Selling refurb boards - $50 each incl shipping except for the power supply that's $150 incl shipping.

Read this regarding the signals:

http://www.curtpalme.com/CRTPrimer_17.shtm

Worst case- get a DVDO line doubler from me for $50 with a VGA to 5 BNC and run 480p via video or Svideo. That will look way better than the 480i you're running now. Best case, get a transcoder to convert component to RGBHV and get blown away with what a 17 year old set can do. A transcoder and cable will be about $200.

s2bill · Joined: 01 Nov 2010 Posts: 11

Will try to pull the boards tonight......Thanks Curt.

s2bill · Joined: 01 Nov 2010 Posts: 11

I received the boards in the mail yesterday; slid them in during lunch today. We have lift-off! I'm planning to swap boards in/out to find errant board. Hope there is just one. Will probably have to realign everything, unless it was the main power board.

We have digital cable here now, by Comcast. Every TV, no matter how new, must use Comcast's channel selector box. They charge an extra $8 per month for a box that has HD outputs. That one comes with HDMI output and the newer 5 cable RCA's. Is there any way to circumvent renting their HD box? What's the best way to supply signal to the projector?

Thanks for all your help.

Bill

draganm · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado

s2bill · Joined: 01 Nov 2010 Posts: 11

I don't find your comments "snarky" at all. I agree it's the worst, but still love my CTR. When you get a Comcast box, they have to enable it and authorize it through their system. I don't know that a Fury would allow me to avoid Comcast's box. It sounds like a type of adaptor for different conection types......Is that right? Still very new to the high tech stuff. Have been running old school fo 10+ yrs.