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David_Web
Joined: 02 May 2007
Posts: 418
Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 7:17 pm Post subject: |
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So the claim which was taken issue with was as far as I see, this:
"Higher beamcurrent-> more bloom.
So reducing "noise" that is coming from Vim and another sources (supply lines, digital lines etc..) are lowering that "noise" part from signal and therefor reducing actuall beam current-> less blooming."
At least that is how I read it two pages back.
I didn't respond to it thinking it would get debunked as a simple missunderstanding.
But apparently it didn't.
The idea that a very faint noise would affect the relatively huge amplitude of beam current in any way and lower the bloom due to this is slightly disproportional. The difference would probably be academical when it comes to beam current.
After all, the image content IS the major part of the signal and pretty much solely dictates beam current. A difference magnitudes down would not do much at all.
Now there is a lot of other things that could make the image not bloom. And apparently there is.
Decreasing noise on the grids leading to less scattering, making the beam hit the same spot better, or any other number of effects.
Purely guesses though.
But would be interesting to know the real reasons.
I don't get the other bickering.
As far as I can see no one claimed that the mod did not work or that the person behind it didn't know what he was doing.
Only that one part of explanation behind it didn't make any sense.
That's how I see it. I think.
Bah never mind. Not like it will make a difference anyway. All the best.
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SNR of people are ridiculously low.
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mp20748
Joined: 12 Sep 2006
Posts: 5689
Location: Maryland
TV/Projector: 9500LC Ultra / Super 02 and 03 VIM
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| Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 9:19 pm Post subject: |
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| Nashou66 wrote: | | CIR Engineering wrote: | | As I said, I calibrated Mike's projector so the black level is where it should be for a proper calibration ie zero IRE is black. |
Right but this is also true....
| CIR Engineering wrote: | ....don't forget that when you reduce black level (brightness) that the white level (contrast) will drop as well. Running with a brightness at 50 and a contrast at 85-90 will result in a much higher white level than running with brightness at 10 and contrast at 85-90. This will obviously impact blooming.
craigr |
So what if the Brightness or Contrast voltages are not really what a stock marquee has at the same "number"?
What if something changed in either? And a brightness level of 50 in a stock marquee is for example 500mv and in the modified marquee the same brightness level of 50 is 100mv. This would allow the contrast to go up very high and not bloom effectively allowing the black level to stay the same. And if you raise contrast it should affect black level. Raising contrast for me from 55 to 70 i need to lower brightness quite a bit to regain black. So if you raise contrast up to 100 id think you would also need to lower brightness to regain proper black level.
Correct?
Athanasios |
Good question. The contrast and brightness circuits are UN-TOUCHED in the mod process. The brightness is being controlled from the control board directly to the neck boards. Contrast level, if different, would be against the mods. Because the mods will already increase the contrast drive from the stock boards.
What Craig is saying (below) is when the black level is "calibrated" it becomes the reference for all testing, and that includes the stock boards that would also be used in comparison. 50 is what I use for control reference. I don't change that, I use G2 do set the proper black level.
| Quote: | | I calibrated Mike's projector so the black level is where it should be for a proper calibration ie zero IRE is black |
These were good questions, they make perfect sense. I would like to double check all of this but at this point I'll rather leave it up to someone else to play around with.
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mp20748
Joined: 12 Sep 2006
Posts: 5689
Location: Maryland
TV/Projector: 9500LC Ultra / Super 02 and 03 VIM
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| Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 9:43 pm Post subject: |
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| David_Web wrote: | So the claim which was taken issue with was as far as I see, this:
"Higher beamcurrent-> more bloom.
So reducing "noise" that is coming from Vim and another sources (supply lines, digital lines etc..) are lowering that "noise" part from signal and therefor reducing actuall beam current-> less blooming." |
This is what we believe to be the cause. Not sure how it can be anything else, especially since it's mainly caused from the change of the VIM, and neck boards. I've never seen a Marquee display this without the modified boards in it.
| Quote: | At least that is how I read it two pages back.
I didn't respond to it thinking it would get debunked as a simple missunderstanding.
But apparently it didn't.
The idea that a very faint noise would affect the relatively huge amplitude of beam current in any way and lower the bloom due to this is slightly disproportional. The difference would probably be academical when it comes to beam current.
After all, the image content IS the major part of the signal and pretty much solely dictates beam current. A difference magnitudes down would not do much at all. |
squeezing a debate about beam current into this is not going to be easy. If I've not took the time to measure this, then I could only go on what's standard for any video neck board. Therefore, I'm sure the changes I've made would not be any different from what is common on any neck board. I just don't know what would be happening with the changes, and did not want to get into a debate about something without knowing first hand. It's just something I've never gave thought to, nor see where it's really relevant to the end results.
| Quote: | Now there is a lot of other things that could make the image not bloom. And apparently there is.
Decreasing noise on the grids leading to less scattering, making the beam hit the same spot better, or any other number of effects.
Purely guesses though.
But would be interesting to know the real reasons. |
You are correct here in the noise on the grids can cause various effects inside the tube. That was presented to me by someone else also, and I believed it being the main reason.
On my 9500LC I also strip noise from the G2 (also one of the grids) drive voltage. I'm doing the same thing they did on the G90.
A modified VIM can have over 30 inductors added to it. The ywould be from the main DC, including the control lines, sync lines and various inter-coupling circuits all on the VIM.
It's really not so much caps as it is other things, to include using the right decoupling caps for the particular circuit.
| Quote: | I don't get the other bickering.
As far as I can see no one claimed that the mod did not work or that the person behind it didn't know what he was doing.
Only that one part of explanation behind it didn't make any sense. |
The beam current question has come up a many times in the past on discussions of the neck board (do a search). You can even find previous discussions and aswers on it. I just don't want to get into the discussion, especially since I can't find a relevance to the mods and what we're talking about.
Good post!
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donaldk
Joined: 17 Jun 2008
Posts: 308
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| Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 10:13 pm Post subject: |
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| mp20748 wrote: | | Nashou66 wrote: | What did you see with the LUG's in the Barcos that you didn't like?
Athanasios |
When I was at VDC some years ago. I remembered something tse shared on the discussions of the super high resolution CRT's they had and were using in some installations. He said those tubes could do the higher resolution, but they were not good for brightness. And further in the discussion, it seemed that Higher Resolution tubes were not the best for brightness.
That visit made me think about two of the sites I maintained that had Barco 909's in blends. Those setups and the many 909's that were shipped to me I noticed that they were the only CRT projectors I've ever seen with wear on the tubes on almost every one of them I've looked closely at. I've even had a Barco 909 in my shop that had wear on the tubes, and it did not quite have 500 hours on the menu.
I since decided to not seek after that extra sharpness they provide over the stock tubes. Instead, I stuck with the stock tubes, because then I would be assured of many hours of use before wear, to include being able to crank up the brightness without worrying about tube wear.
I compensated with sharpness by making changes to the projector. |
On the otherhand Spotmatic got several sets of LUGs previously installed in 909s that had been replaced on schedule, so around 3000 hours, wich looked almost like new, no recognizable wearpattern on the pictures he posted. These came from an planetarium, so sharpness was most likely more important than light-output, Spot having seen the display running on the new tubes infered they had not been run at high light output settings.
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donaldk
Joined: 17 Jun 2008
Posts: 308
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| Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 10:52 pm Post subject: |
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| CIR Engineering wrote: | | mp20748 wrote: | | CIR Engineering wrote: |
I think Mike P is onto something with his VIM mods. What I saw at his place with the VIM is incredible. To see a Marquee run that bright without blooming tells me something. I really think it's the signal chain and that Mike has already found the solution.
craigr |
It's really more than the VIM in this case. It's a combination of things really. The main being the neck boards, and yes they are running +/- 85 vdc.
The Barco 909's that I have been setting up, cannot reach and maintain that same controlled brightness that my 9500 puts out. They get bright, but clip the resolution way before they reach a really high output level. Not sure about the G90, but for sure, I don't know of any other CRT projector that you can crank all the way up without blooming or noticeable lost of resolution.
My Marquee is SPECIAL..
Craig, hope you get and feel better. We're wrapping up the G90 mods this week, but as we had discussed. I'm ready when you are. You can get around to it when you feel better> |
Your 9500 is the brightest CRT I have ever seen Mike... and it stays focused even at 100% contrast. It is a lot brighter than a G90, though the G90 doesn't bloom at 100% either if you have the greyscale setup correctly (lowered gain on green).
craigr |
How bright Craig? I presume you LUG around your meter everywhere;-). The highest measured value I have read about was actually from an 808 Barco putting out 21 fL on a three meter wide screen.
So I read on and you say 22fL, but at what screensize?
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tse
Joined: 03 May 2006
Posts: 1014
Location: Sweatbucket, Fl.
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| Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 11:57 pm Post subject: |
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As promised the part of the 'LUG spec sheet that deals with the "KH" pin. This is all that is mentioned in the spec sheet about the KH pin.
Scott
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KH.pdf |
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 12:29 am Post subject: |
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| tse wrote: | As promised the part of the 'LUG spec sheet that deals with the "KH" pin. This is all that is mentioned in the spec sheet about the KH pin.
Scott |
Thanks
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mp20748
Joined: 12 Sep 2006
Posts: 5689
Location: Maryland
TV/Projector: 9500LC Ultra / Super 02 and 03 VIM
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| Posted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 1:24 am Post subject: |
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Still not calibrated, needs more setup for sure... Contrast 84 - I don't need no LUGs..
1920X1080P @ 72hz
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 2:23 pm Post subject: |
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Funny thing.
I was down at my pond yesterday filling up a barrel with water. I have a gas pump there with a hose in the pond to suck to water out and then a hose coming out to fill the barrel. So I'm standing there waiting for the barrel to fill and it seems to be taking for ever. I check the valve coming out of the pump and its only on half way. So I open it up for more water. Damn, now the water coming out of the nozzel is spraying all over and alot is missing the bucket. There has to be some way to get the nozzel from spraying water and have a nice stream. So I go around to the suction side and check for sticks or leaves in the screen. Then I check for kinks in the suction hose. I look and see another valve on the suction side. Its open all the way. So I close it half way. I go back to my nozzel and sure enough no more spraying and I now have the valve on the output of the pump open all the way. Problem solved. And all I had to do was reduce the amount of water and no more spraying with the valve open all the way.
But wait. My bucket doesn't seem to be filling any faster now with the valve wide open then it did before when the input valve was open all the way and the output valve was only open half way.Apparently the amount of water flow is relevant to how fast the barrel fills. I dont know. All I know is now I can open the output valve all the way and I have a nice stream coming out of the nozzel. Guess I'll just have to wait for the barrel to fill.
But now that i'm thinking about it maybe I should of adjusted the nozzel on the end of the hose instead. I probably could of opened it a little more to stop the spraying and then the water would come out nice and fast without spraying. Oh, and the pump seems to be running a little funny too. Maybe fixing that would help. Ah, who knows.
Oh crap. Did I post this in the wrong place? Sorry guys.........
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stefuel
Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3353
Location: Green Harbor MA USA
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| Posted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 6:41 pm Post subject: |
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| macgyver655 wrote: | Funny thing.
I was down at my pond yesterday filling up a barrel with water. I have a gas pump there with a hose in the pond to suck to water out and then a hose coming out to fill the barrel. So I'm standing there waiting for the barrel to fill and it seems to be taking for ever. I check the valve coming out of the pump and its only on half way. So I open it up for more water. Damn, now the water coming out of the nozzel is spraying all over and alot is missing the bucket. There has to be some way to get the nozzel from spraying water and have a nice stream. So I go around to the suction side and check for sticks or leaves in the screen. Then I check for kinks in the suction hose. I look and see another valve on the suction side. Its open all the way. So I close it half way. I go back to my nozzel and sure enough no more spraying and I now have the valve on the output of the pump open all the way. Problem solved. And all I had to do was reduce the amount of water and no more spraying with the valve open all the way.
But wait. My bucket doesn't seem to be filling any faster now with the valve wide open then it did before when the input valve was open all the way and the output valve was only open half way.Apparently the amount of water flow is relevant to how fast the barrel fills. I dont know. All I know is now I can open the output valve all the way and I have a nice stream coming out of the nozzel. Guess I'll just have to wait for the barrel to fill.
But now that i'm thinking about it maybe I should of adjusted the nozzel on the end of the hose instead. I probably could of opened it a little more to stop the spraying and then the water would come out nice and fast without spraying. Oh, and the pump seems to be running a little funny too. Maybe fixing that would help. Ah, who knows.
Oh crap. Did I post this in the wrong place? Sorry guys......... |
I don't care if it's the wrong forum or not. Just answer the question. Did modifying the pump circuit lower the pump pressure?  
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Chip
A Barco is only a AmPro with training wheels
Card carrying member of the AVS chain gang.
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Sparky015
Joined: 12 May 2009
Posts: 1185
Location: Cleveland / Akron, OH
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| Posted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 7:09 pm Post subject: |
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Mac, I would just scrap it all and just buy it from someone who's got the bucket filling nailed
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mp20748
Joined: 12 Sep 2006
Posts: 5689
Location: Maryland
TV/Projector: 9500LC Ultra / Super 02 and 03 VIM
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| Posted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 7:10 pm Post subject: |
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| macgyver655 wrote: |
But now that i'm thinking about it maybe I should of adjusted the nozzel on the end of the hose instead. I probably could of opened it a little more to stop the spraying and then the water would come out nice and fast without spraying. Oh, and the pump seems to be running a little funny too. Maybe fixing that would help. Ah, who knows.
|
Did you measured the water pressure into the nozzle, and what is the nozzle made out of?
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CIR Engineering
Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 4269
Location: Chicago USA & Berlin Germany
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| Posted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 10:07 pm Post subject: |
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| mp20748 wrote: | | Nashou66 wrote: | | CIR Engineering wrote: | | As I said, I calibrated Mike's projector so the black level is where it should be for a proper calibration ie zero IRE is black. |
Right but this is also true....
| CIR Engineering wrote: | ....don't forget that when you reduce black level (brightness) that the white level (contrast) will drop as well. Running with a brightness at 50 and a contrast at 85-90 will result in a much higher white level than running with brightness at 10 and contrast at 85-90. This will obviously impact blooming.
craigr |
So what if the Brightness or Contrast voltages are not really what a stock marquee has at the same "number"?
What if something changed in either? And a brightness level of 50 in a stock marquee is for example 500mv and in the modified marquee the same brightness level of 50 is 100mv. This would allow the contrast to go up very high and not bloom effectively allowing the black level to stay the same. And if you raise contrast it should affect black level. Raising contrast for me from 55 to 70 i need to lower brightness quite a bit to regain black. So if you raise contrast up to 100 id think you would also need to lower brightness to regain proper black level.
Correct?
Athanasios |
Good question. The contrast and brightness circuits are UN-TOUCHED in the mod process. The brightness is being controlled from the control board directly to the neck boards. Contrast level, if different, would be against the mods. Because the mods will already increase the contrast drive from the stock boards.
What Craig is saying (below) is when the black level is "calibrated" it becomes the reference for all testing, and that includes the stock boards that would also be used in comparison. 50 is what I use for control reference. I don't change that, I use G2 do set the proper black level.
| Quote: | | I calibrated Mike's projector so the black level is where it should be for a proper calibration ie zero IRE is black |
These were good questions, they make perfect sense. I would like to double check all of this but at this point I'll rather leave it up to someone else to play around with. |
Guys, if the black is correct at 0 IRE the current to make 0 IRE is going to be the same regardless of whether or not the mods are in place. A given tube will make black at a given voltage. So if black is calibrated using the G2's it makes black. I don't know if the mods result in the necessity to increase the numeric value for G2 in the service menu or not, but I would think that the black level beam current for said tube is a constant. Once black is calibrated the "base line" voltage for brightness is set and "constant" as Mike indicates.
craigr
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 10:37 pm Post subject: |
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i would like to know the ftl from the modded marquee and a stock marquee on the same screen.
the modded can go to a 100 contrast and the unmodded lets say 55 56 without blooming.
measure them with these settings, both pjs need to be calibrated of course.
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marquee 9500ultra HD10L moome hdmi1.3 v3+ some mods.
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 11:59 pm Post subject: |
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| mp20748 wrote: | | macgyver655 wrote: |
But now that i'm thinking about it maybe I should of adjusted the nozzel on the end of the hose instead. I probably could of opened it a little more to stop the spraying and then the water would come out nice and fast without spraying. Oh, and the pump seems to be running a little funny too. Maybe fixing that would help. Ah, who knows.
|
Did you measured the water pressure into the nozzle, and what is the nozzle made out of? |
No I didn't measure the pressure cause even though some pressure is needed to move the water along I need more water to fill the barrel faster. I could have enough pressure to blow a hole in the bottom of the barrel but without more water volume it wouldn't fill any faster. I tried using less water and it didn't spray with the output valve wide open but it didn't fill any faster. It just ended up a different setting on the output valve but was still the same volume of water when it started to spray.
I think that with the pump not running right and the nozzle working funny it's causing more spray. When the pump is running at a certain speed the rpm's are fluctuation up an down a little and when the water comes out of the pump it is pulsating a little. When it reaches the nozzle, it too is not holding open where it need to be. Its fluttering a little instead of being open at a constant size and between this and the water flow, its spraying all over the place out of the nozzle. I have to turn it down to keep it flowing in the bucket.
Now if I can fix the pump so its running nice and smooth, maybe the water will come out in a nice stream. Then if I can get the nozzle to hold nice and steady where I need it, I bet the water will come out the nozzle in a nice stream, even if I open the output valve all the way, without that input valve. Then I would have a nice flow of water and fill up the bucket faster.
I bet a dollar to a donut that if it was coming out that smooth, and I aimed it into a device to move it along farther, then into a funnel to make a smaller stream and the other end of the funnel could move up, down, left and right..... I could aim that stream of water through a bullet hole at 25 yards with little to no splatter on the rest of the target. Sweeeeet!
And it would be easier for the funnel to collect all the water if there was less spray.
You know Mike, when you announced your 100% contrast with no bloom I was like a cheer leader rooting for the quarter back. Because I am and always will be an optimistic person and my optimistic thoughts figured you had fixed the pump and the nozzle. But when the pessimistic option was forced upon me (which I didn't even think of) where you maybe put a valve on the input side of the pump, my gleaming quarterback became a sh*t spreader in the sewer. Cause you can't fill a barrel faster with less water. Cause if all you did was change the output valve setting for the same volume of water, then thats no achievement at all.
But inside I really hope that you actually did fix the pump and nozzle and the barrel is filling up faster at full throttle. That would be a well deserve achievement. And I will cheer you all the way, even after the things you have said.
So yes, the volume of water is very relevant to what were talking about and whether the barrel is actually filling up faster. But it also needs to work on other peoples pumps and nozzles. Hope it does.
Good night all.... I'm off to the fields.......................
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 12:08 am Post subject: |
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Macism's at its best.
But back to the issue about LUG's in Marquee's. Bruce(Techman707) made this comment on AVS and I have to ask, could it be this simple?
| Techman707 wrote: | | As for spot focus, my experience with new tubes is that they run from super sharp to super soft. No two tubes are ever identical. Add to that variations in focus coils, etc. and everyone will say something different. |
Since Galen said they also worked fine in his is it possible some just are not made as well as others? I can see this happening as I had a regular Green 108dvb that would not focus right no matter what, swapped in another Green in the same chassis and walla!! Good focus, same magnetics .
Nashou
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mp20748
Joined: 12 Sep 2006
Posts: 5689
Location: Maryland
TV/Projector: 9500LC Ultra / Super 02 and 03 VIM
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| Posted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 12:18 am Post subject: |
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| dvh99 wrote: | i would like to know the ftl from the modded marquee and a stock marquee on the same screen.
the modded can go to a 100 contrast and the unmodded lets say 55 56 without blooming.
measure them with these settings, both pjs need to be calibrated of course. |
This is not a test that I would be doing. Being able to push a Marquee to the extreme light output is not something that I'm promoting. And I don't claim it for my mods. It's just something that happens on my 9500 and a few others, and I'm not 100% sure why it happens (more like 80%). I only know that most of that difference is caused from the modified boards.
I've had request to have a marquee shipped to me to modify the entire set. Something that I won't get into. Can I make a Marquee ramp up high contrast levels and produce that very intense image - yes. Would I get into offering that service and receiving entire projectors to make it happen - no.
I think measuring the light output is somewhat irrelevant in this case. A stock marquee could peak out (point before bloom) at or near 70 on the contrast scale. Maybe 60 when doing either 1080P 60 or 72 hertz. On my 9500 I can crank the brightness all the way up to 100, and you may not even notice blooming at all. And that's at 1080P 72hz. What happens when it's at 100 is the neck boards run twice as hot when I crank it up and run it at that level. I've been trying to understand what's going on, but still trying to figure some things out myself. I've also been monitoring the temperature of the neck boards for almost two years. I also run the neck boards at these high temperatures with out any cooling. The covers are removed from the tubes.
Even with the SMPTE pattern displayed, it still maintains very well at 100 contrast.
The difference between stock (at maybe 60 to 70 contrast) and my modified 9500 at 100 contrast is not subjective.
So my latest Super mods may or may not have this effect on a Marquee. If it does, fine. if not, that's also fine because it's not what I'm offering or claiming for the mods.
Now, concerning bandwidth, sharpness, finer detail, better colors. And if everything in and around the system is a good compliment to the mods, then those virtues is what I'm offering.
I'm really waiting to here from craig on how the boards work in that Marquee he'll be installing them in. I'm waiting to hear how well they work with the LUG's. I've never had the mods in a marquee that had LUG's in it. So I got a chair ready and waiting for that day when Craig is able to install those boards in that Marquee...
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zGman
Joined: 22 May 2006
Posts: 599
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| Posted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 5:33 am Post subject: |
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Regarding the comment from Bruce (techman707 - hope he is still kickin')
I have had the oppportunity this year to test dozens and dozens of new and used
9" tubes - and yes there is a lot of variation in G2 values and focus and astig.
Most can be brought in with careful astig magnet adjustments, but focus
settings can vary widely, and optimal postion of focus magnetics can vary
as well. A very easy improvement for stock marquee focus coils can be
had by removing the clamp on the convergence coil and sliding the focus coil
forward. My experience with LUG's in Marquee did not show a loss of light output,
but the loss of resolution in bright scenes was only improved with 1292 focus coils.
This is true whatever kind of tube however. I do not have experience mixing tube
types in marquee chassis, which is really what what Curt was referring to in his
original post. However, I will be soon forced to learn about it, since all my
new greens are lcp09, and all my red and blue are lugs, should be interesting....!
My experience with MP is that that he is a relentless self taught genius - maybe sometimes
he does not express himself in the same language that some of us may have learned in
engineering school, but of the many conversations and the few days we had working
together at William's, there has never been I time when I didn't learn something new
and useful - Personally, I find these back and forth nitpicking sessions to be quite tedious.
(And could not care less about water pumps and analogies thereof...)
G
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 1:46 pm Post subject: |
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| zGman wrote: |
Personally, I find these back and forth nitpicking sessions to be quite tedious.
(And could not care less about water pumps and analogies thereof...)
G |
Thats because they are meant for those who do not understand what is being discussed so they can follow along also. They are not for those who do, so yes you can ignore them.
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CIR Engineering
Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 4269
Location: Chicago USA & Berlin Germany
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| Posted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 1:49 pm Post subject: |
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| zGman wrote: |
My experience with MP is that that he is a relentless self taught genius - maybe sometimes
he does not express himself in the same language that some of us may have learned in
engineering school, but of the many conversations and the few days we had working
together at William's, there has never been I time when I didn't learn something new
and useful - Personally, I find these back and forth nitpicking sessions to be quite tedious.
(And could not care less about water pumps and analogies thereof...)
G |
Not to mention that Mike doesn't always want to, or care to, spill the beans on the whys and hows of all his projects. He likes to keep some things to himself and that is just the way it is for him. He's a good friend of mine and he doesn't tell me every last detail on some things he wants to keep confidential. But I will say that Mike has helped me on the phone literally hundreds of times in getting out of a repair jam, and he's only not had a solution less than a handful of times.
craigr
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www.CIR-Engineering.com - craigr@cir-engineering.com
Phone: 865-405-6892
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