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rosenbush
Joined: 14 May 2010 Posts: 94 Location: Brownsville Texas
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| Posted: Fri May 14, 2010 3:51 am Post subject: Arcing Socket |
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Hi Everybody
I'm new here (Posting) , but I've been following the forum from a while ago. Such a great source of information !.
I need your help on trying to understand what's going on here:
When I hear the arcing from inside my 1270, I try to see where it came from (as I read several times here, in the darkness) and found it came from the socket of the CBb board of the blue tube (See the 2nd pic). I've already ask for a replacement, from Curt, of course, as I swap with the green board and the arc disappear, so, it should be the board.
But the point is, inside the socket , there is a two metal parts with a gap between them that look like an "Arcing point" (See the first pic). One of them is Ground and the other one goes where the resistor after the focus cable came. I think there is a reason for it, may be when a condition is made, there is arcing at this point (for protection?). Any one knows what is that for?
I feel I need to double check this, before the second board arrives and avoid to damage it. Any information or tip will be highly appreciated.
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| Arcing zone in the socket |
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1595 Time(s) |

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Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24396 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Fri May 14, 2010 5:29 am Post subject: |
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That is a spark gap, and as per my emails, it's really rare for a socket to arc without another problem being there. BUt since youy already swapped the green socket to the blue and it works fine, the socket is bad. Corrosion, conductive plastic, who knows.
I sent 2 sockets today via priority. One has a bunch of white stuff on the back of the PC board. It looks like something got spilled onto it, but I've seen several Sonys like that, and they run no problem.
Cheers!
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rosenbush
Joined: 14 May 2010 Posts: 94 Location: Brownsville Texas
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| Posted: Fri May 28, 2010 3:54 am Post subject: Follow up |
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Just for the record:
I replace the CBB board and the problem was solved (Thank you Curt !!)
After a careful exam on the bad board I found a bad connection (Loose soldering) on the G2 pin.
Looks like when is a failure on the G2 Voltage the spark gap respond to it. The newer version of that board has a stronger connection for that pin, may be they found there is a problem there, and fixed it.
Anyway, as I said before, just for the record if anyone gets the same problem.
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