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red c element replaced leaking glycol, why?

 
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incova



Joined: 27 Nov 2006
Posts: 789
Location: london

Posted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 3:31 am    Post subject: red c element replaced leaking glycol, why?

As the title says I just replaced the red c element but I have leaking glycol, the O ring is in place and I have opened it once before to check it as it was leaking the first time, the ring is not out of shape so I have no idea what is going on, could this be residue from outside the ring being forced out? Confused I have tightened the screws as far as I can and I have replaced c elements before no idea what going on here should I wait and clear the residue then see if more comes out or try yet again?

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Mark_A_W



Joined: 15 Mar 2006
Posts: 3068
Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia

Posted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 3:39 am    Post subject:

Well...obviously there is a leak.

But seeing as you didn't mention what projector/tube housing you are fiddling with, it's hard to know what is wrong...
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 4:08 am    Post subject:

He has an Ampro. Chip, any help here?

Athanasios

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incova



Joined: 27 Nov 2006
Posts: 789
Location: london

Posted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 10:26 am    Post subject: ah sorry

Its a Ampro 4600, it has a O Ring or washer that goes between the c element and the housing for the glycol, I had assumed that the O ring was out of position but its fine so I thought maybe the screws were not tight enough but that seems ok as well............
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stefuel



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3353
Location: Green Harbor MA USA

Posted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 10:52 am    Post subject:

Well, the AmPro c-element is about the easiest in the world to do. Assuming the o-ring is not cracked, is in place in a clean ring grove, the sealing surface of the c-element is clean and not scratched and you followed a tightening pattern while putting it all together, it should not leak.

If however, you cranked down the first screw and worked your way around, it's probably not sitting flat on the o-ring. If that's the case, back off all the screws about a half turn. Make sure the metal ring is loose then gently tighten all the screw in until they just touch. Then follow a pattern of tightening like points of a clock 12-6-9-3-10-4-7-2. Go around a couple of times, snugging up a little at a time until they are tight. If that does not solve it, you will need to take it all apart again and inspect everything for damage.

If you were a animal and cracked the hub of that red c-element, you will be banned for life Laughing

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incova



Joined: 27 Nov 2006
Posts: 789
Location: london

Posted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:05 am    Post subject: will try again

Thanks Chip, not sure what went wrong this time, I will give it a go again I pretty much used that method but lets see, maybe third time lucky.
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draganm



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado

Posted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 3:43 pm    Post subject:

stefuel wrote:
is in place in a clean ring grove,
The "ring groove" is called the Gland Wink
I would repalce the o-ring, a bag of -rings runs about 10 bucks for typical sizes. Make sure you choose EPDM as the material, then just get the correct width and diameter.
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Tom.W



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6635


Posted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 5:50 pm    Post subject:

A pretty good source for new O rings ....

http://www.applerubber.com/products/pdf/quickref.pdf
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stefuel



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
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Location: Green Harbor MA USA

Posted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 8:03 pm    Post subject:

draganm wrote:
stefuel wrote:
is in place in a clean ring grove,
The "ring groove" is called the Gland Wink
I would repalce the o-ring, a bag of -rings runs about 10 bucks for typical sizes. Make sure you choose EPDM as the material, then just get the correct width and diameter.


Sorry dude. You can wink till you go straight but the sealing material IS the gland and NOT the grove it goes in. Wink Wink Laughing

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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
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Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 1:55 am    Post subject:

Tom.W wrote:
A pretty good source for new O rings ....

http://www.applerubber.com/products/pdf/quickref.pdf


They are also a great manufacturer of Marquee bellows!! Wink

Athanasios

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Mark_A_W



Joined: 15 Mar 2006
Posts: 3068
Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia

Posted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 12:42 pm    Post subject:

I would have thought Viton would be the right material, not EPDM (?).
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draganm



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado

Posted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 3:17 pm    Post subject:

stefuel wrote:
draganm wrote:
stefuel wrote:
is in place in a clean ring grove,
The "ring groove" is called the Gland Wink
I would repalce the o-ring, a bag of -rings runs about 10 bucks for typical sizes. Make sure you choose EPDM as the material, then just get the correct width and diameter.


Sorry dude. You can wink till you go straight but the sealing material IS the gland and NOT the grove it goes in. Wink Wink Laughing
I have the Parker O-ring guide right in front of me . The "sealing Material" is called an o-ring. The Gland is the groove the o-ring sits in. The gland dimensions are critical and will change depending on whether it's a face seal, static shaft seal, or reciprocating shaft seal. Gland dimension include depth, width, and max corner radius on bottom of Gland. Also specs for use of Parbak rings in the gland for ultra high pressures.

http://www.oringsusa.com/html/gland_design.html
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stefuel



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3353
Location: Green Harbor MA USA

Posted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 6:07 pm    Post subject:

You are mis-reading it. The "gland grove" is the area that holds the packing gland. The packing gland does not have to be a o-ring. It can be any material that provides a seal between two or more (usually moving parts) like a gate valve shaft, drive shaft in a inboard boat. The gland material can be as simple as grease impregnated roap wrapped around a shaft and held in place with a threaded adjustment nut AKA packing nut.
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Chip
A Barco is only a AmPro with training wheels

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Mark_A_W



Joined: 15 Mar 2006
Posts: 3068
Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia

Posted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 10:30 pm    Post subject:

All this is so helpful...

Incova, are you certain it is leaking from around the c-element?

It's not from around the tube is it?


(There are no bellows on an Ampro housing, are there?)
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 11:28 pm    Post subject:

Mark_A_W wrote:
I would have thought Viton would be the right material, not EPDM (?).


Nope, when i asked Apple rubber about it for the marquee bellows they said for use with glycol the EPDM was better and less expensive than Viton.

Athanasios

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Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher


"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

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incova



Joined: 27 Nov 2006
Posts: 789
Location: london

Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 2:07 am    Post subject: hi all thanks for all the help

I took Chips advice, I took the c element of the tube and then redid it AGAIN, and voila finally the dam thing is sealed! I must have put to much pressure on some f the screws and too little on others it just kept leaking, I have changed c elements so many times as well, thanks again guys!
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