CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[Claus_LM]

Dear all

From the 8500 Ultra (w/o tubes) I got from Curt and my "old" 9500LC I have put together a new machine.
I finally got the glycol to stay in the cambers and I have now assembled the projector. I did the first test yesterday.


1. I was only running using the internal test signals and contrast never above 50.
After about 15 minutes I could smell burnt electronics. It was clearly around the back of the red tube. I could not locate it to the neck board, or the board on the heat sink (I got a big nose, so I do not want to get too close to the back of the tube ).
I had the contrast low and was looking into the red when it started to flicker. I turned the projector off and opened the rear heat sink. The smell was from the neck board. I then exchanged it with one of the Ultra ones I got from Curt.
This time it will keep running without any smell problems.



2. I played around with the convergence and the internal test signals. I noticed that the test signals are very unstable. The test picture is okay, but there is a very low frequency "whopling" in the picture. The horizontal lines sometimes is showing a "wave" on it. The same with the lines. Sometimes you can see dots with different distance, but again changing every 2-3 seconds. It is very hard for me to explain. I was wondering if it could be the very long 230V extension cable I running to the projector?



3. Then I put in a Moome card I bought a long time ago (never used it, and now have to buy V2!). With a HDTV output from my computer I projected a DVD image. But I noticed when looking into the red tube, that something is wrong. Again I don't know the correct English word, but the light things in the red tube is throwing a big shadow across the tube.

Here is a picture of what I see.



I have tried to change to RGB input, and it is the same.
Any idea where this is coming from?



4. I have tried to reset the projector back to default. It is not possible to converge the red at the right side. This is how it looks after a reset. Do you know why it is looking this way?





5. There is a lot of noise in the blue tube. It is very hard to take photos of, but here is one. It is in the background.





6. I tried to knock on the two vertical PCBs (very gently!). The one with the three big wires coming out did show reaction to the knocking. The horizontal size of the picture changed up and down. Perhaps I have to reseat that module.


For me it looks like the overall power supply is unstable, but I don't know if that is true or not. I can measure anything, also with a scope.

Any ideas on what to try is welcome. I do have double of everything, except the neck board with the bad spell.

Kind regards

Claus

[David_Web]

4:
From MP
"Go into your service menu (0901) and press: 3

That will put you in the R/G vertical size menu to adjust the separate size of either Red or Blue to match, or get closer to green. "

5:
The noise in the blue tube looks very similar to the snow I had. The dots looks like it "snows" down the picture when looking into the tube. (probably dependent on scanrate)
This procedure fixed that problem for me.
https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=19648.html

[dvh99]

this looks more serious to me.
did you reset the clm (little button on the backside)
remove the moome and run rgbhv from the pc.
unplug the focus convergence and astig cables.
take out the clm clean the chips with alcohol and put back.
reseat the hdm and focus module and the daughter board (hdm) and chips on it.
maybe a cable from the vim to the vnb got stuck.

[Tim in Phoenix]

Hello

Number 3 looks like smearing on red, try another neckboard. For 5, was the metal neckboard cover in place with the grounding strap for blue?


.

[Nashou66]

Also for what time mentioned make sure the two black wires on all VNBb's are not pressed down onto the board and are elevated up away from the op Amp chip.
On all later model marquees they put a drop of silicon to prevent the wires from being pressed down against the Boards when the metal cage is placed on. the foam has a tendency to squash it against the board. the best advice is to move the wires to the underside.

Athnaasios

[draganm]

[Tim in Phoenix]

Hello

Regards picture 4, the red scan yoke is not level to green. This works the convergence amp a lot harder. If it is not glued to the tube glass it would be worthwhile having the scan yoke levelled.

.

[Claus_LM]

Dear all

Thanks a lot for the answers. Here is what I found until now.


2. It is the Focus board I got from Curt in the 8500 Ultra. If I change this to the old 9500, all lines are rock steady.
I will have to look into what that can be. I have to repair it. It was the reason I bought the Ultra to get the new modules.
Any idea on what could be wrong?

3. I agree. It must be the neck board again! Anybody have an idea what is wrong with the two boards? I'm an electronic engineer and would like to repair them.

4. I have the Frankenyokes I have to mount, so that should be corrected at the same time.

5. It did help with the ground wire. I tried both the 2P and 3P VIM. Changing the Focus board did help too. Now it looks like the noise is the same on all colors.

6. I have cleaned the connectors and reseated the board. I have not tried to knock on it again.


Tim: But the shape is like small to the left and large to the right. Can that be corrected in the magnetic setup?

Draganm: I did this full reset. But why is the "astig" settings not reset? It looks like they are at an old setting. The same with the electronic focus. Is there a way to reset them all?

Kind regards, Claus

[David_Web]

The left to right keystone is normal.
I think he means that the red (or green) scan yoke is slightly rotated and should be corrected mechanically by rotating the scanyoke carefully. You might have to remove some glue first. I did mine with a pair of rubber cloves (on the same hand, double layer are never wrong), you want to be very careful to not damage any wires. Oh there is high voltage at high frequency, not a good thing to touch.

You want to check if the convergence yokes are leveled as well and correct it. Turn one square all the way and then rotate the yoke until only one axis are affected by it.

[Nashou66]

Clause do the waves look like this video but on the horizontal lines?

http://www.tolna.net/~teox/9500LC_focus.wmv

Athanasios

[Claus_LM]

Hi Athanasios

The link do not work for me. Are you sure it is correct?

Kind regards, Claus

[Claus_LM]

Hi David_Web

I not appy about getting my hands that close to the tube. I like your double-gloves idea. Perhaps I should invest in a pair like this:

http://uk.farnell.com/knipex/98-65-41/glove-electricians-1000v-sz10/dp/9168583

Kind regards, Claus

[Nashou66]

[David_Web]

Me nether but it got cumbersome to shut it down, wait, ajust, check...
I just used two rather flimsy disposable gloves made for cleaning. Not the thinnest type but definitively not thick. Should be fine if you happen to touch some pins. If you rip one on the pins you have one extra to not get bitten.

It takes a lot to jump though two layers of rubber and you probably don't need the continuous rating of the gloves linked above.

You could probably layer up as many of the flimsy type as you like or feel safe with.

[Sparky015]

just make sure there are no pinholes in those flimsy gloves!

[Nashou66]

I just use the wires to move the yoke. You could use silicon over the exposed pins or desolder them and use heat shrink on them. then your covered except for the windings.

I just use bare hands you woosies !!

nashou

[draganm]

[Claus_LM]

Hi again

3. It was the neck board. The second one I tried worked without the shadow.

5. If I turn the contrast way, way down (below 5) the noise in the blue is very clear. It is all over the place. Turning the contrast up will of course "hide" the noise, but it is still visible.


Athnaasios: Is the reason to prevent damage, or noise?

I will think about taking a high voltage hit or being a woosie


Kind regards, Claus

[Nashou66]