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dturco
Joined: 06 Feb 2009
Posts: 3778
Location: Eastern Shore Maryland
TV/Projector: Runco DLP VX-3000i Marquee 9500 parts doner
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| Posted: Fri May 18, 2012 2:31 am Post subject: |
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| Tim in Phoenix wrote: | Hello
One of your Hobson connectors make be cracked and leaky.
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Thanks Tim. I was just letting Curt know some one else went through what I am. I have replaced all three H/V leads and replaced the splitter too. Still having the sizzling. Curt is sending out a H/V power supply as It is the only thing left to try?
Of course if there is something else I am all ears.
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Tim in Phoenix
Joined: 21 Oct 2006
Posts: 4409
Location: Phoenix
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| Posted: Fri May 18, 2012 2:38 am Post subject: |
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| dturco wrote: | | Tim in Phoenix wrote: | Hello
One of your Hobson connectors make be cracked and leaky.
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Thanks Tim. I was just letting Curt know some one else went through what I am. I have replaced all three H/V leads and replaced the splitter too. Still having the sizzling. Curt is sending out a H/V power supply as It is the only thing left to try? |
Hello
The high voltage cable end connectors are called Hobsons, after the manufacturer. Are you using needlenose pliers to tighten all the connectors? They have to click into place like a BNC.
Also, look at a Hobson closely and pull the plastic grip back a few inches. The plastic "knob" must compress and cause the rubber donut to expand sideways for a good seal. The black sleeve that presses the metal tip down can crack, the rubber donut may have lost its' elasticity, and the grip itself can crack. If there is a pinhole leak anywhere near the end of the pink wire, then the Hobson cannot seal it. You may just need a new Hobson connector on the line that is leaking. I can mail you one to try.
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dturco
Joined: 06 Feb 2009
Posts: 3778
Location: Eastern Shore Maryland
TV/Projector: Runco DLP VX-3000i Marquee 9500 parts doner
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| Posted: Fri May 18, 2012 2:48 am Post subject: |
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| Tim in Phoenix wrote: | | dturco wrote: | | Tim in Phoenix wrote: | Hello
One of your Hobson connectors make be cracked and leaky.
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Thanks Tim. I was just letting Curt know some one else went through what I am. I have replaced all three H/V leads and replaced the splitter too. Still having the sizzling. Curt is sending out a H/V power supply as It is the only thing left to try? |
Hello
Look at a Hobson closely and pull the plastic grip back a few inches. The plastic "knob" must compress and cause the rubber donut to expand sideways for a good seal. The black sleeve that presses the metal tip down can crack, the rubber donut may have lost its' elasticity, and the grip itself can crack. If there is a pinhole leak anywhere near the end of the pink wire, then the Hobson cannot seal it. You may just need a new Hobson connector on the line that is leaking. I can mail you one to try.
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Thanks Tim. I should have said I replaced all three H/V leads with NEW ones from Curt and the splitter also came from Curt.
However let's check how I replaced them. I removed the old leads scraped the tube surface, cleaned the tube surface with alcohol, placed the new Hobson leads prongs into the tube hole, heard a click, tried to pull it out , and it was snug in the hole. Then I kept the boot peeled up in the air, put silicone [GE silicone] onto the tube but not on the high area dimple near the hole, pushed the boot down and let the silicone cure for four days before putting the tubes back in.
Did I miss anything?
Edit: I just read your BNC comment, I assume that's for the splitter, in which case the locking action of those ends are fully engaged also. I only used my fingers to do it but there was no issue on full rotation of the barrels.
_________________
Firefly rules. Can't stop the signal.
http://www.hulu.com/firefly
Last edited by dturco on Fri May 18, 2012 3:17 am; edited 1 time in total
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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Tim in Phoenix
Joined: 21 Oct 2006
Posts: 4409
Location: Phoenix
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| Posted: Fri May 18, 2012 2:54 am Post subject: |
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Hello
If your leak is at the splitter it is the plug end you need to question. Did the anode leads come with plugs? Maybe the HVPS plug is the problem.
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dturco
Joined: 06 Feb 2009
Posts: 3778
Location: Eastern Shore Maryland
TV/Projector: Runco DLP VX-3000i Marquee 9500 parts doner
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| Posted: Fri May 18, 2012 3:02 am Post subject: |
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| Tim in Phoenix wrote: | Hello
If your leak is at the splitter it is the plug end you need to question. Did the anode leads come with plugs? Maybe the HVPS plug is the problem.
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Yes the leads had the boot and the marquee ends already installed. I think it is the H/V power lead. I unplugged all three leads, turned on GOZER and moved the splitter around by itself, it sizzled when near anything metal the chassis or other wires, and I got a shock doing it.
Is there a way to just replace the lead without replacing the whole power supply?
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Firefly rules. Can't stop the signal.
http://www.hulu.com/firefly
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Tim in Phoenix
Joined: 21 Oct 2006
Posts: 4409
Location: Phoenix
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| Posted: Fri May 18, 2012 3:20 am Post subject: |
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| dturco wrote: | | Tim in Phoenix wrote: | Hello
If your leak is at the splitter it is the plug end you need to question. Did the anode leads come with plugs? Maybe the HVPS plug is the problem.
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Yes the leads had the boot and the marquee ends already installed. I think it is the H/V power lead. I unplugged all three leads, turned on GOZER and moved the splitter around by itself, it sizzled when near anything metal the chassis or other wires, and I got a shock doing it.
Is there a way to just replace the lead without replacing the whole power supply? |
If you can solder a little, sure. PM me your address and I'll mail you the stuff.
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dturco
Joined: 06 Feb 2009
Posts: 3778
Location: Eastern Shore Maryland
TV/Projector: Runco DLP VX-3000i Marquee 9500 parts doner
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| Posted: Fri May 18, 2012 5:22 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the offer Tim, but couldn't I just cut off one of the old leads that were good on my original tubes and solder that on?
If not I will gladly accept your offer. 
| Tim wrote: | If you can solder a little, sure. PM me your address and I'll mail you the stuff.
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Firefly rules. Can't stop the signal.
http://www.hulu.com/firefly
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Fri May 18, 2012 5:27 pm Post subject: |
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The problem is, if the HV coming out of the HVPS is too high, a lead replacement won't help. Now that I've had one Marquee HVPS put out 40+ KV due to water or glycol damage on the control board, I don't discount a HVPS putting out too much HV.
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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hi , i would like a new lead too for my hvps cause i`m having serious arcing now and suspect the hobson.
who has one for me.
is it normal that i get all these random squigly lines in my picture because of the static build up (always happens after 10 minutes of running the projector so never when it`s cold)?
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:49 pm Post subject: |
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You'll need to splice the lead to the old one, as you can't get access to the solder end of the HV lead within the HVPS. 6 layers of heatshrink works though. I've got brand new leads at $25 incl shipping. Email me please.
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mc86
Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 767
Location: pittsburgh, pa
TV/Projector: ECP 4500 (Vidikron box), ECP4500+, wanting 07MS/07MTS, evaluating pc soft-blend
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| Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 2:25 am Post subject: |
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I'd consider adding a layer of silicone tubing like that sold by cole parmer for masterflex pump. Curt, if you tell me the OD of the HV leads, I'll send you some extraneous bits (6in to 1 ft long pieces) from my lab; folks could slide the tube over a line, splice the lines, and then slide over the tube and heat shrink it on -- this could cut down on the number of layers of heatshrink, I'd bet and might be more effective.
Or instead/addition to heat shrink, try this silicone "tape" for electrical work instead of heat shrink - at 8000V, gotta be higher voltage...? Just a thought...
Matt
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 4:57 am Post subject: |
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Matt, the problem is the leads are premade, with the Marquee/ECP style of connector on one end, and the rubber cap on the other. Cutting a new lead to put extra tubing on top of it seems pointless. I've sold probably 100 leads in the last 5 years, and of course have used a bunch myself in any number of sets, from ECPs to 909s, and have had zero arcing or noise issues with the new leads.
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mc86
Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 767
Location: pittsburgh, pa
TV/Projector: ECP 4500 (Vidikron box), ECP4500+, wanting 07MS/07MTS, evaluating pc soft-blend
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| Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 5:40 pm Post subject: |
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| Curt Palme wrote: | | You'll need to splice the lead to the old one, as you can't get access to the solder end of the HV lead within the HVPS. 6 layers of heatshrink works though. I've got brand new leads at $25 incl shipping. Email me please. |
Wait...I'm confused about your instruction above now. Tim suggested the HVPS supply wire (from HVPS to the block) was bad, NOT a lead from the block to the tubes. Since Dave couldn't solder the lead from the HVPS (due to the cast silicone), I presumed he'd have to cut the original end off and splice on a new one cut from a lead as per your quote above. Sorry if I'm totally misunderstanding this!
Matt
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 6:02 pm Post subject: |
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I think we're saying the same thing.
T
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 6:06 pm Post subject: |
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would it be wise to insulate the wire with teflon tape first before using the heatshrink?
_________________
1 answer always poses multiple questions.
marquee 9500ultra HD10L moome hdmi1.3 v3+ some mods.
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 6:07 pm Post subject: |
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Sure, anything to build up the insulation.
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dturco
Joined: 06 Feb 2009
Posts: 3778
Location: Eastern Shore Maryland
TV/Projector: Runco DLP VX-3000i Marquee 9500 parts doner
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| Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 3:42 pm Post subject: |
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| Curt Palme wrote: | | Matt, the problem is the leads are premade, with the Marquee/ECP style of connector on one end, and the rubber cap on the other. Cutting a new lead to put extra tubing on top of it seems pointless. I've sold probably 100 leads in the last 5 years, and of course have used a bunch myself in any number of sets, from ECPs to 909s, and have had zero arcing or noise issues with the new leads. |
Well, Curt Now you have had ONE fail . The new lead is in and no crackle or sizzles anymore. Of note the hobson end on the lead you just sent me was much, much, tighter on the Hobson side, it took a good amount of effort to twist. The one that was causing the sizzle was almost "loose" feeling in comparison. Problem solved though 
And for anyone who was following along Curt did trouble shooting over the phone and here on the site and sent the replacement lead out at no charge.
Thanks for the outstanding service Curt 
_________________
Firefly rules. Can't stop the signal.
http://www.hulu.com/firefly
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 4:16 pm Post subject: |
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hv lead received btw tx.
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marquee 9500ultra HD10L moome hdmi1.3 v3+ some mods.
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 4:32 pm Post subject: |
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finally got around and soldered the lead from curt to my hvps and used some teflon tape plus the heatshrink tubing curt provided.
i used 2 short pieces and 1 longer piece to finish it.
no arcing anymore so everything is fine again.
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1 answer always poses multiple questions.
marquee 9500ultra HD10L moome hdmi1.3 v3+ some mods.
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