CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

stefuel · Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 2:13 pm Post subject:

What's the difference between a Marquee HV splitter and a AmPro HV splitter? They both look generic.

tse · Joined: 03 May 2006 Posts: 1014 Location: Sweatbucket, Fl.

There can't be any big difference other than physical. Both do the same thing in systems that are almost identical. One may or may not have resistors or different value resistors. The resistors limit arc current without lowering performance, much.

scott

SweetChuck · Posted: Mon May 10, 2010 10:28 am Post subject:

You know what else I think happens with the hv tips that go to the splitter. If you solder them on the solder is soft and cavitates giving a poor connection , so I soldered on some copper caps to the tips , So far so good, the case is on a I've clocked up 12 hours.

CZ Eddie · Joined: 23 Mar 2006 Posts: 1601 Location: Austin, TX

You might put some asphalt loom around the HV cable too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310216357368&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

SweetChuck · Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 2:01 am Post subject:

Ok now I'm officially pissed off !! New HV cables New splitter and still arcing everywhere, it seems to be the most prevalent around the splitter connection for the blue tube , could I have a bad tube , as honestly I've run out of ideas . The pic below is holding the remote 1 inch away from the blue connector .

I did notice that the new HV leads i got from curt don't have the extra insulation around it , I even wrapped this up with spiral wrap and still no joy. This is the single most annoying problem I have ever encountered, spent 100's of hours and $$ and i'm no better off Evil or Very Mad

Any ideas ?? I'm out !!!

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

i wonder if its the HV main cable from the HVPS?

Athanasios

SweetChuck · Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 4:36 am Post subject:

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

when the blue HV cable is disconnected doe it hiss still?

Athanasios

SweetChuck · Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 4:40 am Post subject:

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

Hmm, i never thought of that. I have done it on my Marquee a couple times but never got close to the Splitter.

How about disconnecting the black umbilical cord to the blue so it wont turn on? I know that is possible but not sure if it
prevents HV from activating in the tube. The Pros would know more.

Athanasios

draganm · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado

Sparky015 · Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 1:20 am Post subject:

Did you ensure that you did not get any silicone or RTV on the anode lead under the boot? I made that mistake. You only need a bead around the outside edge of the boot and thats it. You let it ride up into the anode connection, and now your creating a path for the high voltage to follow.

SweetChuck · Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 1:32 am Post subject:

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

Sound like your new HV lead is bad. Can you look at it closely and see if it has any cracks in it or pin holes, possibly under the plastic connector. Some times even knew cables can have imperfections. Just a bunch of bad luck it seams.

Athanasios

Mark_A_W · Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 8:05 am Post subject:

Ricky

I've run both NECs and my Barco with the tubes disconnected from the splitter. Sometimes one tube, sometimes all.

Obviously you don't poke your fingers down there, but the collar on the splitter is long enough to stop an arc under normal circumstances (unless the humidity where you live makes a difference).

Got any old NEC tubes? Use those HV leads, I've never had a problem with a NEC lead, even old crappy ones.

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 2:08 pm Post subject:

Did you get the new HV leads from me? Once in a while I'll get a set in that's been exposed to long term moisture, and I change the HV splitter and HV leads. As others have said, you can run sets with an HV lead taken out of the splitter and it should not arc.

if a set has been exposed to short term moisture, you can usually clean the lead/insulation/connector with alcohol and a paper towel. Wipe everything down really well,and if the arcing stops, then you're fine.

I do remember chasing a leaky HV splitter for the first time for hours. AS with you, I changed all HV leads, and couldn't get rid of the sizzle until I changed the splitter. Since I'd never had that before, I thought the splitter was fine. I've had 4-5 bad splitters since.

cmjohnson · Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5180 Location: Buried under G90s

I'm thinking about possible grounding problems. If, for example, you run the tubes with the bell grounds disconnected, you'll get some arcing and snapping as the bells build up a charge...and one hell of one, at that. The ground system has to be good or you'll get
discharge issues.

Maybe ground straps are missing or disconnected. Essentially, every piece of metal in the PJ needs to be grounded to the chassis,
and the chassis needs to be grounded via the power supplies. A power supply problem could actually be responsible for this issue,
as a result.

CJ

SweetChuck · Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 10:25 am Post subject:

Well I'm finally arc free ATM . In desperation I put a bead of silicone around the rubber and connectors to the splitter and left it for a week , and not a sizzle Thumbs Up

I know its not technically correct, it does not answer any questions and I may have some trouble if I need to disconnect it, but I just don't care , I'm on holidays and am going to sit in my cinema and watch the Lord of the Rings trilogy in one sitting.

Thanks for the help everyone

dturco · Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 9:02 pm Post subject:

Hey Curt,this is exactly what is happening to GOZER!!!

Tim in Phoenix · Joined: 21 Oct 2006 Posts: 4409 Location: Phoenix

Hello

One of your Hobson connectors make be cracked and leaky.

.