CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[dvh99]

i bet it wont be long for nashou to come in and give his insights .

[Nashou66]

I never got a test S-VIm to compare. But against a stock 2035-03p Vim this one i feel is better with higher scan rates. Noise wise the 2035-03p Vim is better. But cleaning up noise in other areas helps out the 2035-02p peaking circuit Vim.

I still think the proper path is to get a VP first (lumagen preferable, even the legacy products HDP,HDQ for the 11 point gamma) ,then a Moome Card(for BD computability and extended color Gamut). Then see if you want to go further.

But this is only my humble opinion. Certain people look for different things in an image, to me its film like image and fluidity. Some go on and on about scan lines
i do not want to see scan lines. Pushing a pj just a bit past its resolvability to me is the image I love if i want scan lines I'll go digital.

Athanasios

[zulu_warrior]

Athanasios, I think your idea of a youtube on this procedure would be very helpful and by the way my offer for your handy work on this mod is still open.

[DGP]

I changed the angle of the pots to be able to adjust them without an extender board. The only thing you need is a long screwdriver .

It is quite obvious the difference. After adjusting them I had to do the white balance again. It is also clear that if you adjust them more than needed you will get some high frequency overshoot.

I attached the test pattern I used.

[Nashou66]

Hi Diego, good idea with the placement of the pots. Just be careful not to break any solder joints for anyone else doing this.

I tried that pattern but it much easier to see using a single set of patterns with the complete set of one on one off,two on two off etc. Because it is against a solid background.

But the pot just turns and turns so you can keep turning ad watch it go in and out of the proper attenuation. When both one on one off patters are even in brightness or intensity then you know you have it right. Make sure you do one color at a time by pressing <color>1 for red,<color>2 for Green and <color>3 for
blue.

here is another trick to go even further to make sure you really have it nailed, use the Yellow,cyan,and magenta colors as well to tweak out the colors associated with those, so for yellow its blue and green, magenta red and blue etc. then look at the full white.

Athanasios

[dvh99]

i would use a plastic screwdriver to make sure you dont short any circuits.

[zulu_warrior]

I had a few moments tonight to look into the back of the pj and the vim looks exactly as was posted earlier. Also looked at some of Athanasios posts for when he received his longbows. I tried to put up some pics earlier but the link didn't work so one more time.
http://s802.photobucket.com/album/yy302/zulu_warrior_2010

[DGP]

[zulu_warrior]

Third time lucky.
http://s802.photobucket.com/albums/yy302/zulu_warrior_2010

[Nashou66]

Thanks Diego for the pics.

Before adjustment:





After Adjustment:



Athanasios

[Sparky015]

Wow, that's a huge difference! Are those at 1080P 60Hz?

[stefuel]

[garyfritz]

That IS huge! Nashou, is that peaking circuit on all VIMs? I need to go tweak mine!!

[Nashou66]

[garyfritz]

[DGP]

[Sparky015]

Gary, are you using HD8s? Not to promote my HD-144s for sale, but the longbows also came stock with HD-145s, which is also a huge improvement in focus across the the entire screen. That was the biggest bang for the buck in picture improvement for me.

[garyfritz]

Nope, I switched to 144's (or 145's? I forget) a couple of years ago. I agree, HUGE improvement. But I have real sharpness issues with my PJ (not due to lenses), such that HD is not THAT much superior to SD. There's a difference but nothing like I had on my XG. I'd really like to figure out how to improve its sharpness so it does justice to 1080p...

[Sparky015]

wow, you should see a big difference over SD with an 8500, especially if you have 144 lenses. Is your machine stock? It may need some cap replacements.

[dturco]