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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Thu May 06, 2010 11:23 pm Post subject: |
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| atty wrote: |
What did you think about the voltage, particularly on QP05? |
Not much. When you have a dead supply you can get all kinds of phantom voltages. Let me know when you get back and I'll discuss the testing procedure.
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atty
Joined: 03 Mar 2010
Posts: 44
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| Posted: Thu May 06, 2010 11:25 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks. I'll be thinking about it on vacation.
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atty
Joined: 03 Mar 2010
Posts: 44
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| Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 2:57 am Post subject: |
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OK I'm back with a fresh mind, and ready to get it screwed around this thing again.
Let me have it when you get the chance.
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Sat May 22, 2010 2:24 am Post subject: |
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| atty wrote: | OK I'm back with a fresh mind, and ready to get it screwed around this thing again.
Let me have it when you get the chance. |
Sorry I missed this post that you are back. Give me a day or 2 to recheck what I was going to tell you. I am time limited again.
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atty
Joined: 03 Mar 2010
Posts: 44
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| Posted: Sat May 22, 2010 5:47 am Post subject: |
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Not a problem. Take your time. I have many fires that generated while I was gone, so whenever you're ready.
Thanks again.
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Sat May 29, 2010 1:55 am Post subject: |
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Ok. I have a little time so I'll give you my interpretation of the manual for diagnosis. Go to page 40, which I'm sure your familiar with. Now this is where your are. It says turn on the TV and after several minutes.......do the 5 leds go off at the same time. Now from your other posts you said they did not.
So now, when you look at the diagram it means.....turn off the TV again and turn it on again but now you must watch LEDs DP15, DP16, DP20, DP21, DP22, D919, D920, D928, D930 and D971, and see which one is going dark first. The one that goes dark first is the circuit you need to check. The diagram gives you some components to check first but doesn't mean thats the only ones.
If you find a problem and repair it and the tv still does not function properly you would start this process over again and see which LED goes dark first again.
You may have multiple circuits that have problems.
Did you follow that ok? 
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atty
Joined: 03 Mar 2010
Posts: 44
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| Posted: Sat May 29, 2010 2:43 am Post subject: |
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I got it. I may have to get several sets of eyes on this one, but we'll work it out.
Thanks for the update. I'll let you know.
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atty
Joined: 03 Mar 2010
Posts: 44
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| Posted: Sat May 29, 2010 3:33 am Post subject: |
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Well, I decided to do this in the dark, and it didn't take long, even for these old, tired eyes.
All DPXXX led's on the Power Supply board stayed on with steady green. D908 red led was also steady red.
None of the LED's on the deflection board went off, BUT....DP15, DP16, DP21, and DP20 blinked at the same frequency as the protection LED, DP06. DP22 stayed steady green.
As I previously posted, I have a whole new set of circumstances once I changed out IP01.
All EP's on the secondary of the transformer on the defl. bd. are good. What is the common denominator between the 13V and 28V circuit?
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atty
Joined: 03 Mar 2010
Posts: 44
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| Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 6:14 am Post subject: |
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Hello. Hope you're still with me.
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 3:41 pm Post subject: |
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The +-28v is for the convergence circuit. The +-13v is for vert. If it is convergence ic's then on some you can disconnect the harness and the tv will run. If no harness your can try removing ICs but, some tv's wont run in either of these scenarios. Also possible you lost vert deflection.
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 3:47 pm Post subject: |
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Dont forget you can bypass the protection circuit for testing but you must be very careful and know what to do. I figured you would of thought of it and I didn't want to suggest it cause I dont fully know your electronics knowledge. But you apparently dont want to give up, LOL.
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atty
Joined: 03 Mar 2010
Posts: 44
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| Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 4:13 pm Post subject: |
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Electronics Tech. U.S. Navy
First Class Radiotelephone License 1964
Amateur Radio Advanced Class 1964
Staff engineer Ch.4 & Ch.5 TV, Charleston, S. C.
Had a TV repair business in Florida for a short time during college.
I'm not afraid to bypass the circuit, but unlike my Navy days, I'm a little reluctant to jump on the "bypassed breaker" trick.
Back in those times there was a whole lot less solid state to worry about.
Unfortunately, this particular chassis is not harnessed to the convergence IC's, and I have replaced them once already. Not the most fun I've ever had.
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 4:40 pm Post subject: |
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| atty wrote: | Electronics Tech. U.S. Navy
First Class Radiotelephone License 1964
Amateur Radio Advanced Class 1964
Staff engineer Ch.4 & Ch.5 TV, Charleston, S. C.
Had a TV repair business in Florida for a short time during college.
I'm not afraid to bypass the circuit, but unlike my Navy days, I'm a little reluctant to jump on the "bypassed breaker" trick.
Back in those times there was a whole lot less solid state to worry about.
Unfortunately, this particular chassis is not harnessed to the convergence IC's, and I have replaced them once already. Not the most fun I've ever had. |
When you replaced the convergence ICs did you use original Sanyos or generics or not sure?
If it was me I would probably disconnect the 28v and 13v lines in the supply and bypass the protection and see if it runs then. Turn down the screen controls first even though a RP usually wont burn a line in the tube. Or just disconnect the 28 volt supplies first bypassing protection and see what happens. Time to be brave, lol.
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atty
Joined: 03 Mar 2010
Posts: 44
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| Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 4:55 pm Post subject: |
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You want me to disconnect the protection on IP01?
I'm still scratching my head on why I have 4 blinking LED's perfectly synced with DP06.
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 6:23 pm Post subject: |
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| atty wrote: | You want me to disconnect the protection on IP01? I guess your asking for specific instructions. You dont want to figure it out on your own, LOL? 
I'm still scratching my head on why I have 4 blinking LED's perfectly synced with DP06. This is actually easy to answer. Are you sure you want me to answer it, LOL? |
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atty
Joined: 03 Mar 2010
Posts: 44
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| Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 6:35 pm Post subject: |
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I'm not above figuring, but I'd rather not do it at the expense of a handful of IC chips. I'm in smalltown, USA. If RadioShack doesn't have it, then it's off to Mouser, Allied, or Digi-key.
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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LOL, ok lets try this first. This is NOT bypassing anything yet. Remove EP96 and EP97 and now tell me what the leds on that board are doing.
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atty
Joined: 03 Mar 2010
Posts: 44
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| Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 7:33 pm Post subject: |
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DP15 and DP16 stay lit for a half a second, then dark. 20 and 21 stay dark. 22 is lit steady, but fades in about ten seconds.
Of course DP06 continues its relentless blinking.
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 7:48 pm Post subject: |
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Wait scratch that, Give me a sec.
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 7:59 pm Post subject: |
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Ok, put those EPs back in and locate inductors LP13, LP14 and LP17 and remove 1 leg on each, or just remove them completely, which ever is easier. Now what are the leds doing?
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