CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

dmarnold · Joined: 18 Jan 2010 Posts: 73 Location: St. Louis, MO

just picked up another runco cinemapro750 (zenith 850) for 45.00 usd
no chance to check it out as my back went out after lugging it into the house
and didn't mention when it might return........
thank god for pain killers..............

dmarnold · Joined: 18 Jan 2010 Posts: 73 Location: St. Louis, MO

everyboby's got skinny legs!

well, got the runco/zenith fired up. first of all, i was told it was ceiling mounted and shooting an 8' screen. the lenses are set to 8' dia. setting. i did a scan reversal to use it cart mounted for testing and when it hits the screen the keystone is triangulated top (wide) to bottom (skinny) beyond correction. any thoughts?

Question

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 2:07 am Post subject:

Yes, you need the service remote to enter the service menu to change the keystone and pin.

Luckily, any universal remote will work, find the code that turns the set on and off, and you're good to go.

I think the tips section on the site has the procedure how to get into the s/menu, but if not, here it is:

Hold down the 'enter' button for about 5-10 seconds unill 'Welcome to the Zenith Digital Guide' or something like that pops up, then '9,8,7,6' and 'enter' again. That will unlock it.

dmarnold · Joined: 18 Jan 2010 Posts: 73 Location: St. Louis, MO

thanks curt,

i did access the service menu, changed all parameters to factory settings for floor mounting. this helped keystone quite a bit but still seems to need too extreme of a setting on convergence board. can i up the keystone setting from 180 to 190 or so as opposed to the 20 setting for ceiling?

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 2:38 am Post subject:

remember that the manual's settings are just a guide. Concentrate on the green only. You'll find a point when ramping up the menu settings that the keystone will max out, and the sides will start to bend unevenly. Sometimes, depending on the set, the menu keystone needs to be maxed out. That's OK. THen fine tune with the controls on the convergence board.

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 2:39 am Post subject:

Oh also, there's a 3 pin connector somewhere on the convergence board that should also be flipped. It has the knockout on both sides of the 3 pin connector so that you can flip the connector around. that should help as well.

dmarnold · Joined: 18 Jan 2010 Posts: 73 Location: St. Louis, MO

yes, there were 7 connectors total on the conv bd, 6 were 2 pin and one 3 pin. reversed all.

i noticed the settings holes on the screen sizes are somewhat "slotted" in the sense they're not just circular for the screws. the setting is 8' but more towards 9' than 7'. i'm setting pj @ the recommended 87" from screen (onto a 10' diag screen) an getting an image about 8.6', too big for 8' diag. wanted to leave it as is and not disturb the lower crt lockscrews. if i want to go to the 10' screen do i have to mess with the yokes and rings?

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 3:43 am Post subject:

Take out the bottom screws and throw them out. Clamp the tubes via the top only.

The metal rings around the yoke are the centering rings.. but are also the astig magnets. I used to use those to the extreme to overlap the images when my throw distance was a bit out (bad Curt!), but much later realized that bad astig = bad focus. Not that you'd notice it much at 480i, but still...

Center the raster, make sure the astig isn't a mile off, then use the mechanical pivoting to correct the H shift of the tubes with relation to the green.

dmarnold · Joined: 18 Jan 2010 Posts: 73 Location: St. Louis, MO

by bottom srews, you do mean the ones accessed through the "top" of the machine as if it were ceiling hung right? in other words the adjusting screws with the positioning holes stay?

never mind, mi comprende'

got it set for a 6' screen, now for the fun part