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Ben851
Joined: 13 Sep 2008
Posts: 221
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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| Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 3:44 pm Post subject: |
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Yep got the large film caps in your maintenance thread as well as the ones that draganm said may be causing the issues. Esesntially I'm replacing almost all of those G2 circuits... save for the mosfets (for now)
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Thanks,
Ben
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 4:20 pm Post subject: |
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| crtcrt76 wrote: | | Any idea of what I'm looking for on the VIM to repair? |
like I said, solid Tantalum surface mount's. They're like little yellow shoe boxes 
| crtcrt76 wrote: | | I've had this CRT since 2001-2, it's a 1997 model with an 8110 badge (incorrect I think). I've set it up in three locations over the years. I love it, but it's never been able to focus well on the left side. Blue seems to focus better, but Green and Red never look right, if I focus on the left edge, the center looks fuzzy if I recall. Contrast has never gone over 55. Is this due to being not squared to the screen? I'm within an inch if I measure in an "X".Also, my firmware version is like 2.0, |
Firmware 2.0 is an old M8000 control module U35 chip which isn't even compatible with a new version Horizontal Deflection module. there's something about this in the TCB's under the MArquee area here. 2.0 is also missing some geometry controls and other useful features. I have some 3.1 chips you can have for free but they won't enable contrast modulation (V3.4) which wasn't an option on 8110 anyway unless you added it?
I also have a complete newer CLM from 1997 with V4.1 software, rebuilt. Maybe you should post some pics or part numbers of the HDM and CLM and also the VIM so we can find out what you really have? It's not ucommon these days to get a machine that's been assembled from random parts. I've seen a couple of these junk yard dog's floating around.
| crtcrt76 wrote: | | Want to color calibrate it too, gamma seems off (crushed darks, which I can compensate a bit for in the HTPC). any way to upgrade this? Thanks Ben, and Draganm, Hi everyone else. |
Get a Moome card, not cheap but worth every penny. The V1.2 HDMI cards had gamma boost too and can be found used for cheap. HTPC Gamma is of no use here IMO because a CRT really requires a custom curve that boosts the bottom end and not simply the whole scale.
| Ben851 wrote: | | I'm having trouble finding replacement FETS... According to the schematic (don't have the actual thing in front of me) they should be 2SC4636... anyone know where to find some of those? |
I would follow Nash's stuff and fix the other Kluged up crap first, see what happens. If problem persists, I have some HVPS around here with bad HV section and I can rob the FET's out of them if you get stuck
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Ben851
Joined: 13 Sep 2008
Posts: 221
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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| Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 12:29 am Post subject: |
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Well that didn't work... Made the problem worse if anything...
First thing's first, I found some anomalies (mods?) while I was working... first one is here:
Those are 450v 33uf Caps running on top of the 600v caps.. I removed them and replaced with the new 600v 0.47uf ones only
These are the 3 resistors running in series... we already knew about those though. Those other two resistors were "originals" though I'm assuming that they were replaced by the previous owner as well... I changed out all 6 with new ones.
These caps were running underneath the 600v caps - I removed them as well.
I replaced all the 2w resistors and the big caps... Upon turning on the system, the symptoms were exactly the same but then things got a lot worse after about 2 minutes. The picture went out completely, then came back much larger and out of focus - then it would slowly come back into focus and normal size but as soon as it would be near normal, it would repeat itself... I've got a video uploading once again... should be posted tomorrow.. Any ideas in the meantime?
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Ben
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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Ben851
Joined: 13 Sep 2008
Posts: 221
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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| Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 1:58 am Post subject: |
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I got it from a fellow forum member - I'll let him identify himself if he chooses... I don't think he performed these mods but I may be wrong... Is there anyone in the Ottawa area that has a Marquee HVPS that I can throw in to test before I make a decision on what to do next?
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Ben
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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Ben851
Joined: 13 Sep 2008
Posts: 221
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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| Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 2:20 am Post subject: |
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Yeah I spoke with Paul in his trading thread - he didn't seem to have an HVPS.... Not sure that it matters anymore but the video is up:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uyyVwm5ae00
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Ben
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Ben851
Joined: 13 Sep 2008
Posts: 221
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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| Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 10:32 pm Post subject: |
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Ok I may have made a stupid...
Feeling a bit of anger that my upgrades made the issue worse - I refused to admit defeat. I removed the HVPS and rechecked my work in case I missed something - it all looked fine so I popped it back in and tried it again. To my delight and dismay I'm right back to where I started! I THINK that the first time I remounted the HVPS I didn't have it seated correctly which is why I had the picture going in and out issue.. I haven't had that since reseating...
so... maybe I won't part it out after all.. Though I still have the original issue... It still gets better after a few minutes... but that's about it... Since I have the lenses off I'm able to see much better and the issue is indeed happening on all 3 tubes... which I would think rules out the mosfets (odd that all 3 would fail)... I'm leaning back towards the VIM now...
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Ben
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 10:55 pm Post subject: |
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Its either something on the Vim or one bad neck board. i had a VNB that had a bad spotkill section on it and it caused flickering on all tubes, the image would blank out on scenes with more contrast, like the black and white section of casino Royal, or the scene where he kneels down to tie his shoe before he crashes the guys SUV in the parking lot.
if you have that movie try those scenes after she warms up.
Athanasios
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Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher
"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan
One Smart Dog!!!
Marquee High Performance Bellows now shipping!!
Marquee Modifications and Performance Enhancement
Marquee C-element and Bellow removal
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Ben851
Joined: 13 Sep 2008
Posts: 221
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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| Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 12:01 am Post subject: |
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You might be on to something there Nash, though I'm not 100% sure now... I initialized the projector and did a set up from scratch just for the hell of it, and got it looking pretty nice actually. As I've spent more time with it I noticed that the issue is related to contrast - the higher the contrast on an image, the worse the streaking gets. If I display the full white field, the picture does it's thing where it goes out, then comes back in out of focus and slowly back in to focus... Does this sound like VNB or would the full white problem still point to HVPS?
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Ben
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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crtcrt76
Joined: 21 Jan 2010
Posts: 9
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| Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 7:14 am Post subject: |
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| Nashou66 wrote: | | crtcrt76 wrote: | | draganm wrote: | | crtcrt76 wrote: | | PS: My VIM board cannot be pulled out easily, it's too close to the wall. Didn't think it could be that until I tried the internal test patterns. Also, my problem isn't apparent until the projector has been on for an hour or possibly 2. |
Almost certainly the VIM. |
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the problem might be a simple cleaning of the mini RCA video cables on the VIM.
The focus issue might be the off axis position or improper optical focus but it sounds more like a bad focus board.
Are you going into the service menu for RGB focus and when adjusting the edges the center looses focus? if so then its a bad board.
For a newer firmware, just look for a newer CLM that has a higher Firmware. The older boards can not go higher than 3.x I think.
Athanasios |
I wanted to give some feedback. I didn't feel like pulling the thing down, so I pulled the VIM partially out, and of course, disconnected the BNC's. Blew all the dust out from wherever I could (50psi air nozzle with regulator to my compressor), and there was quite a bit. Reseated everything, and had it running all week for an hour or 2 at a time. This weekend for 10 hours, and still no issues! Even did a touchup convergence, as it seemed to have changed slightly.
Regarding the focus, it is focused about 4" back if you hold paper behind where the screen usually is, on the left side. Near the center, the focus is almost perfect (still seems better about 3/4" back though). Right half, it's about 2" back. I know I optically focused this a year or more ago, and I ran into stops for the wing nut adjustments. Focus to me, means I can see phosphor "grain" (is that a proper term?), and subsequently, doing the paper trick, can actually see stairstepping on windows 7 icon text @ 1600x900. Of course the convergence is off at that position... do I simply need to move the screen back a couple inches? I have a little wiggle room on the face of the tubes to enlarge the picture. Putting it up, I went by the diagram/measurements in the Marquee manual.
My screen pulls down near the center of the room, this way the room can be used for other things as well (kids!).
EDIT: Now that I think about it, the picture would have to shrink in terms of using the tube face if I put the screen further back... right?
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Marquee 8000, Hitachi RP CRT HD
Last edited by crtcrt76 on Tue Feb 02, 2010 7:33 am; edited 1 time in total
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crtcrt76
Joined: 21 Jan 2010
Posts: 9
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| Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 7:29 am Post subject: |
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| draganm wrote: | Firmware 2.0 is an old M8000 control module U35 chip which isn't even compatible with a new version Horizontal Deflection module. there's something about this in the TCB's under the MArquee area here. 2.0 is also missing some geometry controls and other useful features. I have some 3.1 chips you can have for free but they won't enable contrast modulation (V3.4) which wasn't an option on 8110 anyway unless you added it?
I also have a complete newer CLM from 1997 with V4.1 software, rebuilt. Maybe you should post some pics or part numbers of the HDM and CLM and also the VIM so we can find out what you really have? It's not ucommon these days to get a machine that's been assembled from random parts. I've seen a couple of these junk yard dog's floating around.
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Pardon my ignorance, but what is the CLM, is that the board with the 5v lithium battery (also slides outta the rear like the VIM)? I can slide it out enough to replace the battery (socketed it myself), and I think a socketed chip next to it. Cannot pull it further unless I drop the projector. What will the 3.1 chips do that my 2004-2007 hybrid frankenstein projector with 2.0 firmware can't do? I'll gladly pay you something for the chips, if it's worth pulling down, and thank you for the offer. I really think it's a 1994 or 95 8000, with outside covers and stickers from a later model, with some boards replaced. When I was doing the anamorphic mod, Tim said my board was really old. Tubes look nearly brand new (8 or 9 out of 10), and I was told they were when I bought it, no major wear marks, nothing noticeable on the projected image either.
Oh, just read you wanted some pics, I will take what I can later this week. Thanks!
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Marquee 8000, Hitachi RP CRT HD
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 7:35 pm Post subject: |
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| crtcrt76 wrote: | | Pardon my ignorance, but what is the CLM, is that the board with the 5v lithium battery (also slides outta the rear like the VIM)? ! |
yes, that is the CLM and it has to come completely out to repalce the main software chip. However if the machine is truly an older M8000 then it doesn't make sense to replace one board at a time. Try and find a complete M8500 chassis and swap the tubes over.
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