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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 3:39 pm Post subject: |
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Horizontal streaking is usually a neck board going south, The flicker looks more like a pulsing, but its hard to tell from the video. How does the flicker look with the Greyscale pattern or a full field on the screen? use the color 3 button to only show blue on the screen. Cycle trhough the # patter leaving all on for a few seconds.
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 7:34 pm Post subject: |
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Baed on the video I really think it's a g2 voltage problem. I don't know if they will reach, but swapping the black +color coded G2 Feed wire between tubes (on the video neck-board) will quickly show if it's a problem with G2 Voltage from HVPS. Good news is that is in fact repairable by Curt.
Shown here
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Ben851
Joined: 13 Sep 2008
Posts: 221
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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| Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 7:55 pm Post subject: |
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I'm inclined to agree with you, draganm... as you say though not sure it will reach - what kind of voltage is coming out of this wire? If it's low I could always run an extension via some speaker wire and an alligator clip or something... This probably isn't the case since it's coming from the HVPS though...
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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Ben851
Joined: 13 Sep 2008
Posts: 221
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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| Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 12:13 am Post subject: |
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Well draganm has it right - swapped the G2 lead to the green and the problem followed... So does that trace the problem to the HVPS? If so, Curt do you know what the issue is and how much it'll take to fix it?
Thanks
Ben
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 1:52 am Post subject: |
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| Ben851 wrote: | | Well draganm has it right - swapped the G2 lead to the green and the problem followed... |
WOO-HOO, oh yeah, who da man? 
Your lucky in that an replacement used HVPS is $350.+ but Curt charges $250. flat rate for repairs. don't quote me on that though. I know for a fact the G2 is on the non-potted side of HVPS and is definitely repairable. 
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crtcrt76
Joined: 21 Jan 2010
Posts: 9
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| Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 8:31 am Post subject: |
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I joined this board because for the last week or so, it seems like mine started to do the same (but seems like all the tubes). Internal test patterns do not flicker, only VGA sources (two PC's tried, two cables). I will try cleaning and inspecting everything first, thank you for the wonderful resource! Will post results this weekend.
PS: My VIM board cannot be pulled out easily, it's too close to the wall. Didn't think it could be that until I tried the internal test patterns. Also, my problem isn't apparent until the projector has been on for an hour or possibly 2.
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Ben851
Joined: 13 Sep 2008
Posts: 221
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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| Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 4:26 pm Post subject: |
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Welcome to the board...
I'll keep you updated on my situation...
Speaking of which, I've been doing some more research and it looks as though the G2 voltages are controlled by the CLM which in turn supplies them to the HVPS which ramps it up to the 400-800 volts on that G2 lead.. Anyone know of a way I can rule out the CLM before sending the HVPS off to Curt? I was going to grab my multimeter and alligator clip to the pin on the CLM that controls blue G2 (it should only be 10v max) only to find that not only am I missing my clips but the leads on the multimeter have broken right off... so off to Canadian Tire this afternoon to get some replacements.
I'm taking educated guesses here but I figure that on a black screen all 3 G2 pins should be reading close to 0, and if my blue is spiking while the others stay low that should mean that it's the CLM sending a crap signal to the HVPS right?
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 5:12 pm Post subject: |
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| crtcrt76 wrote: | | PS: My VIM board cannot be pulled out easily, it's too close to the wall. Didn't think it could be that until I tried the internal test patterns. Also, my problem isn't apparent until the projector has been on for an hour or possibly 2. |
Almost certainly the VIM.
| Ben851 wrote: | | I'm taking educated guesses here but I figure that on a black screen all 3 G2 pins should be reading close to 0, and if my blue is spiking while the others stay low that should mean that it's the CLM sending a crap signal to the HVPS right? |
yes it could be the CLM.
On both the VIM and CLM there are surface mount Tantalum capacitors that are known to dry out and go bad, right where the main power comes in fom the Mobo.
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 8:13 pm Post subject: |
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Ben its really hard to clip to the CLM pins and close the board up to make a connection on the back plane. You could open up the other panel above the CLM to run the wire out. Or you could solder a test wire to that pin. But i have dealt with lots of Clm's and never seen that G2 section go bad. I bet if you open up the HVPS one of the CC resistors is bad on the blue channel. look in my maintenance thread for a pic of those resistors. You can lift on end of the Resistors to read them to see what the value is, usually they are off maybe 100 ohms any more and it can be a problem. Replace them with 2 watt ceramics from Ohmite.
Athanasios
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"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan
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Ben851
Joined: 13 Sep 2008
Posts: 221
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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| Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 10:38 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the tip Athanasios,
I checked the "6" resistors and got these results:
R9: 542kohms in an arrangement of 3 (2x 220k reading 213 each and one 120k reading 116k)
R10: 543kohms in an arrangement of 3 (2x 220k reading 213 each and one 120k reading 117k)
R15: 541kohms in an arrangement of 3 (2x 220k reading 212/213 each and one 120k reading 116k)
R16: 543kohms in an arrangement of 3 (2x 220k reading 213/214 each and one 120k reading 116k)
R21: 510k in a single resistor
R22: 527k in a single resistor
So multiple questions here..
I'm assuming that these 3 banks represent RGB.. If that's the case and they should all be 560k, it would appear as though someone has been in this HVPS before me. I'm guessing that the two single resistors (R21 and R22) are the originals? Or did they come from the factory in the arrangement of 3?
Should I change all 6 out with single 560k or are the other four in spec enough?
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:53 pm Post subject: |
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Based on how it's acting, changing from normal to overdriven, I doubt it's a resistor. More likely one of the Mosfets at Q3,4, or 5. Or posibly the caps at C13,14,11,12, 9 and 10?
| Ben851 wrote: | I'm assuming that these 3 banks represent RGB.. If that's the case and they should all be 560k, it would appear as though someone has been in this HVPS before me. I'm guessing that the two single resistors (R21 and R22) are the originals? Or did they come from the factory in the arrangement of 3?
Should I change all 6 out with single 560k or are the other four in spec enough? |
Stock is a single Carbon comp (big brown cylinder) at each location. Someone was mucking with 2 of the channels and stacked those resisotrs up. I would replace them all if you have the ability to do so and check the FET's and caps too
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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crtcrt76
Joined: 21 Jan 2010
Posts: 9
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| Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 4:47 am Post subject: |
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| draganm wrote: | | crtcrt76 wrote: | | PS: My VIM board cannot be pulled out easily, it's too close to the wall. Didn't think it could be that until I tried the internal test patterns. Also, my problem isn't apparent until the projector has been on for an hour or possibly 2. |
Almost certainly the VIM. |
I can pull it down with a modified engine hoist (or three non-drunk people  to get that module out, I was afraid you were going to say "almost certainly" and VIM together  . Any idea of what I'm looking for on the VIM to repair? I've done the anamorphic resistor mod, and reflowed solder for large components or odd looking connections, on all the easy to get to boards under the top cover and cleaned all boards with PEC from Radio Shack. That solved my pop-noise problem, where it would pop, and then lose calibration for a second, go dark, and come back up normal about 2x during a movie. Tim Martin (ehometech?) helped me with this one a while back, awesome guy.
I've had this CRT since 2001-2, it's a 1997 model with an 8110 badge (incorrect I think). I've set it up in three locations over the years. I love it, but it's never been able to focus well on the left side. Blue seems to focus better, but Green and Red never look right, if I focus on the left edge, the center looks fuzzy if I recall. Contrast has never gone over 55. Is this due to being not squared to the screen? I'm within an inch if I measure in an "X".
Want to color calibrate it too, gamma seems off (crushed darks, which I can compensate a bit for in the HTPC). Also, my firmware version is like 2.0, any way to upgrade this? Thanks Ben, and Draganm, Hi everyone else.
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 5:03 am Post subject: |
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| crtcrt76 wrote: | | draganm wrote: | | crtcrt76 wrote: | | PS: My VIM board cannot be pulled out easily, it's too close to the wall. Didn't think it could be that until I tried the internal test patterns. Also, my problem isn't apparent until the projector has been on for an hour or possibly 2. |
Almost certainly the VIM. |
I can pull it down with a modified engine hoist (or three non-drunk people to get that module out, I was afraid you were going to say "almost certainly" and VIM together . Any idea of what I'm looking for on the VIM to repair? I've done the anamorphic resistor mod, and reflowed solder for large components or odd looking connections, on all the easy to get to boards under the top cover and cleaned all boards with PEC from Radio Shack. That solved my pop-noise problem, where it would pop, and then lose calibration for a second, go dark, and come back up normal about 2x during a movie. Tim Martin (ehometech?) helped me with this one a while back, awesome guy.
I've had this CRT since 2001-2, it's a 1997 model with an 8110 badge (incorrect I think). I've set it up in three locations over the years. I love it, but it's never been able to focus well on the left side. Blue seems to focus better, but Green and Red never look right, if I focus on the left edge, the center looks fuzzy if I recall. Contrast has never gone over 55. Is this due to being not squared to the screen? I'm within an inch if I measure in an "X".
Want to color calibrate it too, gamma seems off (crushed darks, which I can compensate a bit for in the HTPC). Also, my firmware version is like 2.0, any way to upgrade this? Thanks Ben, and Draganm, Hi everyone else. |
the problem might be a simple cleaning of the mini RCA video cables on the VIM.
The focus issue might be the off axis position or improper optical focus but it sounds more like a bad focus board.
Are you going into the service menu for RGB focus and when adjusting the edges the center looses focus? if so then its a bad board.
For a newer firmware, just look for a newer CLM that has a higher Firmware. The older boards can not go higher than 3.x I think.
Athanasios
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Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher
"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan
One Smart Dog!!!
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Ben851
Joined: 13 Sep 2008
Posts: 221
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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| Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 12:19 pm Post subject: |
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| draganm wrote: | | Based on how it's acting, changing from normal to overdriven, I doubt it's a resistor. More likely one of the Mosfets at Q3,4, or 5. Or posibly the caps at C13,14,11,12, 9 and 10? |
I'm having trouble finding replacement FETS... According to the schematic (don't have the actual thing in front of me) they should be 2SC4636... anyone know where to find some of those? As for the caps - you'll have to forgive me as I'm not up to snuff on the different types - are these ok as replacements?
http://canada.newark.com/cornell-dubilier/ck05bx682k/ceramic-multilayer-capacitor/dp/65F637
http://canada.newark.com/avx/1812ha101kat1a/ceramic-multilayer-capacitor/dp/96M1556
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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Ben851
Joined: 13 Sep 2008
Posts: 221
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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| Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 3:37 pm Post subject: |
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Yowch those ain't cheap! I've ordered the other parts, I'll replace those first to see if that resolves the issue..
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Ben
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
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Location: West Seneca NY
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