CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[WTS]

It's not like they are that transparent but there is some light that passes through , but any reflected back light with of course affect the final PQ.

[Nashou66]

Well in my design i don't think any light will get behind the screen. But I will get some black material walt to go from the frame to the Grommet area and use some adhesive tape to cover the space between the wood frame and the actual screen surface to cover any opening were possible reflective screen image might
sneak through.

Athanasios

[WTS]

I'm not talking about light sneaking through the cracks, I'm talking about light that passes through the screen materail then bounces off the wall behind the screen and passes back through the screen the other way.

[Nashou66]

[WTS]

Hi Athanasios,

Well I'm no expert on how reflective certain paints are but if it's a hard surface painted it's going to reflect some light. Sure just get a meter square piece and stick it in the middle of your screen(behind) and see if you can see any differences with a 100 ire beaming down on it.

[Nashou66]

Hi Walt, one question. How far from the screen grommets to the frame did you go? I was thinking only about 2-3 inches all the way around. I decided to not go with the dimensions in my diagram.

I got the Da-Lite screen to finally go all the way up into its casing ! But before I did that I marked on the walls the center of the screen sides and top bottom. After i put the screen up i fired up my PJ's with a pattern with a center +
on the wall and used a laser level to make sure my side markings were close, they were dead on even though my screen was about 1.5 inches off the wall.

What I think I am going to do is put the screen as close to the wall as possible, I have a sample of the screen here and put my shop light up to it from about 2 feet and then put some objects behind it that were reflective and there was no shadow from any of them back to the rear of the sample screens surface. So I think I will be ok.

Next I will mark out each stud so its easier for me to screw the wood frame tot he wall. the laser level line drawing unit will help me keep the 2x4 straight and if there is any warping i can straighten it out easily then.



Athanasios

[WTS]

Hmmm, If memory serves correctly I think the edge of the grommets where about an inch from the inside edge of the frame.

I would still do a test with the black velvet behind once you get it set up.

[Nashou66]

Ok, thanks. I'll still test with black cloth too.
I'll start tomorrow.

[Nashou66]

Ok here is what I decided on after walking around home Depot for over an hour. I Bought some copper pipe standoff's that look like Cones with the clasp on them for the pipe. I am putting these into the wall studs every 32 inches and in the corners. so far this is what i did in an hour.

Use of a laser level is awesome!!!

Copper Pipe Stand Offs


Use of laser level to mark stud location and keep top of frame level.

As you can see the center of my screen is almost the same as the stud !!!





I am hoping the side conduits fall onto a stud but I don't thing so, but I am lucky, the other side of the theater wall is bare, just insulation so I can add stud in the correct location!

Athanasios

[WTS]

Looks good. Don't worry about the sides lining up over a stud, just get some 90s for the corners and solder them in. They'll be plenty strong. I can't tell is that 3/4" pipe?

[Nashou66]

yes it is 3/4 inch. But its no problem for me to put wood behind the dry wall at each stand off location, I got lucky, on the left side my test screw at the loaction i marked just scraped the stud, so if i move it over a 1/4 to 1/2 inch i'll hit it perfectly. I can compensate the screen centering with the lacing I assume. Sound about right Walt?

Also they did not send me any string, so i bought 100 feet of 1/4" braided rope.

Athanasios

[WTS]

Really, I wouldn't worry about putting wood at the ends. I would just solder the elbows onto the end pieces and then just slip the end pieces onto the top and bottom rails. They won't fall off and the tension from the screen will keep them in place.

I guess they're getting cheap by not suppling the rope anymore.

Take pictures as you progress. Have you figured out how you'll mount the trim boards?

[Nashou66]

Ok frame is up, taking a break for now. Some pics for others to get an idea. I really like this solution of using the Copper pipe standoffs. Glad I looked up in my basement the other day in disgust when I dropped a light bulb I was changing, looked up and there was a copper standoff!!









Here are a close up of the parts






The Finished Frame with me checking it over.



Athanasios

[bbfarmht]

Looking Good Nash!! Can't wait to see it when you get the screen up.

[WTS]

Looking good. Damn that's going to be one big screen. Why did you use conduit connectors instead of copper pipe couplings and elbows? I suppose it doesn't matter too much but it'll give you a little more offset.

Upon second look I see you're using conduit pipe not copper pipe.

[Nashou66]

Ok Its up!! I will have to iron out some slight waves but I like this unity gain screen already! And Ben, i can not see the three seams at all! they run vertical but not even able to see them unless i am two feet away and know where to look.

Walt no light leakage tot he wall at all, Now i need to decide if i go through the pain in the ass now to move the Pj's back a bit to fill the screen, i didn't think one more foot would make such a difference!

well here are some pics as promised.



First image!1 I did not do any new optical focus or convergence etc. I actually got pretty close to the distance off the wall of the old screen. Not exact but off maybe 1/2 inch.



On the next two you can see the room I still have for a whole image, If i do go that size my last future bar stool row will have to crouch to see the top of the screen, Oh Well.....

With Lights on to see the rest of the unused portion of the 13 foot screen.







I'll tighten it up a bit tomorrow. I started at the top left corner and went across the top and then down the right side.
then i used a second rope and went fromthe left top down and then across the bottom to the middle, i started again from the right bottom and finished in the bottom middle. then i went and pulled it taught some more around the whole
frame. i have some waves on the bottom so i need to pull the side bottoms some more I think.

Athanasios

[WTS]

Nice work. Yeah I can see the bottom isn't tightened evenly.

So next is to put a 6 or 8 " black border around the screen. Then you'll have to give us a full review of your $253.00 Hurley screen, what other screen(s) will you be comparing it to? I still think that is a steal of a deal considering how big your screen is.

[Nashou66]

[WTS]

Well once you get into some critcal viewing you can let us know what you think. I sure hope you like it as I'd hate to be blamed for leading you astray on your screen choice.
Oh I thought you didn't pay the extra for shipping because you picked it up, no?

As for the bottom wave, I meant the bottom of the screen material isn't even, you just need to adjust the tighness of the rope along the bottom.

[Nashou66]