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MarchingCRT
Joined: 14 Nov 2008
Posts: 36
Location: Baltimore, MD
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 7:57 pm Post subject: Marquee with universal remote and ir repeater |
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I have an 8500 I bought from Curt a couple of years ago. Works great and looks fantastic! The Marquee remote works fine, but I want to use a universal remote, specifically my URC 800. I can't bounce this remote off the screen and get consistent results, so I tried to hook the Marquee up through my ir repeater and got no results. The repeater is a buffalo system. Is it not compatible with the 8500 ir? Is there a repeater that is? The URC remote works great if it is pointed directly at the Marquee's receiver, so I pulled the eye out and taped it to the side of the pj facing my seats. I just want a little more flexibility with where I can point my remote.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Trent
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Trombone player by day. CRT nut by night.
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Tim in Phoenix
Joined: 21 Oct 2006
Posts: 4409
Location: Phoenix
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| Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 1:28 am Post subject: |
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Hello
The Marquee IR uses a 336khz carrier, above the range of many consumer devices. I can offer you an IR sensor to plug into the Marquee rear panel, $90 and postage; you can aim it rearward or down for better results.
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Sparky015
Joined: 12 May 2009
Posts: 1185
Location: Cleveland / Akron, OH
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| Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:08 am Post subject: |
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I think Tim has the cheaper solution, but the newer Harmony remotes from Logitech also will handle Marquee frequencies and bounces off the screen nicely. THey are a bit more than $90 plus postage though.
Paul
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~Paul
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gketo
Joined: 10 Dec 2009
Posts: 6
Location: Fairview, Tx
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| Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 5:35 am Post subject: |
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I use a old Pronto tsu1000 for the Marquee and it works great. Don't know about the newer models thou.
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menec
Joined: 17 Dec 2008
Posts: 74
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| Posted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 8:29 pm Post subject: |
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I had kind of the same problem with my pronto tsu 501 not being able to bounce the IR signal off the screen reliably (https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=12500.html). Tim's solution works great. If you have a second IR receiver you can also solder a mini stereo plug to it and put it in the CLM. If you don't want to mess around with soldering get the receiver from Tim 
Last edited by menec on Sun Jan 10, 2010 8:56 pm; edited 1 time in total
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csamos
Joined: 10 Jul 2008
Posts: 59
Location: Austin, TX
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| Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 1:13 am Post subject: |
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| Sparky015 wrote: | I think Tim has the cheaper solution, but the newer Harmony remotes from Logitech also will handle Marquee frequencies and bounces off the screen nicely. THey are a bit more than $90 plus postage though.
Paul |
I use a Harmony 550 right now that I got for free, and it works great.
I also picked up a used 880 for $40, which also works great, but I actually prefer the feel and layout of the 550.
You can get a refurbished 550 on Amazon for $60.
-Carl
http://www.samos.org/Theater/
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MarchingCRT
Joined: 14 Nov 2008
Posts: 36
Location: Baltimore, MD
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| Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 8:06 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the ideas!
menec,
I bought a 501 for myself and one for my brother who also has a marquee. I paid for them about 1 day before I found a post that said it was not compatible. I tried to learn the codes anyway without success and gave up on the remote. Thanks for posting that link! I will play with that remote some more. I have a ir receiver from an 8000 that I tried to solder the stereo plug onto without success. I am guessing I guessed wrong on the wiring. I also have an extra buffalo ir receiver lying around I can try. Can you tell me which rings the wires go to on the plug?
cool!
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Trombone player by day. CRT nut by night.
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menec
Joined: 17 Dec 2008
Posts: 74
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| Posted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 12:39 am Post subject: |
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Hi MarchingCRT,
I uploaded a very basic but working config of my TSU here. Did you see that? Maybe you can reuse the IR-codes.
Regarding the wires I have no possibility to check it right now but I attached the schematics I used. IIRC there is one wire without insulation, that should be ground (you can easily test which wire is ground, since it is connected to the outer metal tube of the IR sensor). For the remaining two wires you have to check the 3-pin plug and the schematics and it should work 
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MarchingCRT
Joined: 14 Nov 2008
Posts: 36
Location: Baltimore, MD
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| Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 3:33 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for those links! I put your file into my 501 remote and it worked! I then tried to learn the discreet on/off from my URC 800 remote and after a few tries, that worked too. The pronto seemed to put out a stronger signal than the URC. More interestingly, my ir repeater worked with the marquee when the signal came from the Pronto. The indicator light flashed noticeably more brightly with the Pronto than with the URC. I am pretty sure it was going through the repeater as I was able to bounce the signal off the back wall into the repeater and operate the pj, and when I unplugged the repeater's power, the pj stopped responding. I bought the Pronto specifically to control the Marquee and was bummed when I couldn't use it and it has sat on a shelf for the last 12 months. Now I am going to use it!
I also tried to plug a sensor, a Buffalo IR 350, into the remote jack. I was able to measure 12 volts. It was actually 11.83, but I think that is fine? The indicator light on the sensor flashed when I sent a command, but the pj did not respond. I thought I had a Marquee sensor I kept from an 8000 I had before this 8500, but the sensor I found had four wires in it and I think it came from an ECP I had before the 8000. Do I need a Marquee sensor, or would a universal sensor work? I am not too worried about it now that I have the Pronto/ repeater combo working.
thanks for the help!
Trent
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Trombone player by day. CRT nut by night.
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menec
Joined: 17 Dec 2008
Posts: 74
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| Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 7:55 am Post subject: |
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Great it works for you!
I have no idea if or how the non-marquee IR sensors would work. 12V is correct though. I would just stick with the Pronto+repeater combo if that is working fine
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PJMoore
Joined: 05 Oct 2006
Posts: 99
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| Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 6:45 pm Post subject: Attaching a Marquee IR Sensor to the CLB Remote jack |
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| menec wrote: | Hi MarchingCRT,
I uploaded a very basic but working config of my TSU here. Did you see that? Maybe you can reuse the IR-codes.
Regarding the wires I have no possibility to check it right now but I attached the schematics I used. IIRC there is one wire without insulation, that should be ground (you can easily test which wire is ground, since it is connected to the outer metal tube of the IR sensor). For the remaining two wires you have to check the 3-pin plug and the schematics and it should work |
Thanks to menec for all the advise – I got it to work. My daughter’s Marquee 8500 needed to be operated by IR when the remote was pointed toward the equipment rack, and not toward the screen. We used a spare Marquee IR sensor, and replaced the flat three pin connector with a round 1/8" three-conductor plug, and extended the cable about 15 feet to the equipment rack using CAT5 wire. The IR sensor is now located on the rack, so it sees the remote along with all the other equipment.
Our Marquee sensor had four wires: red (not used), black wire (sensor), brown (power), and a bare wire (ground). The 1/8 plug tip was attached to the brown standby power lead; the middle ring was attached to the black sensor wire; and the sleeve closest to the wire / farthest from the tip was connected to the bare ground wire. I do not know is all Marquee sensors are wired the same way, so be sure to ring out the connector first. Mine was wired 1:sensor, 2:power, 3:ground just like the drawings. The flat plastic connector had a “1” embossed on the connector.
The only issue we had was that if the original front panel IR sensor was left in place, the remote did not work consistently. Apparently, the signal to the front IR sensor and the signal hitting the CLB Remote IR were both being seen and causing the Marquee to become indecisive. I put a cover over the front sensor and that solved the problem.
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menec
Joined: 17 Dec 2008
Posts: 74
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| Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 10:17 pm Post subject: Re: Attaching a Marquee IR Sensor to the CLB Remote jack |
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Great it worked for you and thanks for sharing the wire configuration. I really like the combination of tsu + second IR sensor.
| PJMoore wrote: |
The only issue we had was that if the original front panel IR sensor was left in place, the remote did not work consistently. Apparently, the signal to the front IR sensor and the signal hitting the CLB Remote IR were both being seen and causing the Marquee to become indecisive. I put a cover over the front sensor and that solved the problem. |
Yep, I noticed that too when I was doing adjustments with the original remote. Since it has better range the marquee did not reliably respond the pushed keys. Temporarily unplugging the back sensor did the trick
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