CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

JBoom · Joined: 02 Dec 2009 Posts: 17

So I just got a new XBox 360 and was testing out different resolutions on the 1208s using RGBHV. While testing 1920x1080 (initially worked), after a short while, the green image shrank to a wide vertical line. I heard a humming noise from the projector and I smelled something burning. I immediately turned the projector off and unplugged it. I let it cool off for a bit and then turned it back on. I observed several behaviors:

- There was initially no display and the bad buzzing was again present (didn't smell additional burning).
- I did, however, remember how to change test patterns (blindly), and got the display to activate with the 3rd option...at this point the buzzing went away.
- Now I have a test pattern, except the green is pegged almost off the CRT to the left. Red and Blue appear to be ok.
- When I go into random access (difficult because the menus are on the green channel) and try to raster shift, I can move raster on all 3 tubes up/down but NOT left/right.
- If I turn the projector off then on, I must repeat the above steps to get anything to display. I seems to not remember the last mode.
- Reading around on various forums, I determined that the H-Shift Focus (762271) board was the likely culprit. I removed the board and located with my nose and visually a bad TDA2030 in the IC210 position of the 762271 board.
- I looked all around and was unable to find an exact match for the TDA2030 (think they are discontinued). I ended up purchasing a TDA2030H from Digikey, which is supposed to be a compatible replacement. The only apparent difference is that it is rated at 18w as opposed to 14w.
- Soldered the new TDA2030H into the IC210 position, put it all back together with new thermal grease and installed it back into my 1208s.
- The projector exibits exactly the same symptoms as before I replaced the bad TDA2030. Buzzing, requiring blind switch to test pattern, no control of horizontal shift.

I am assuming that the failed TDA2030 either caused other components to go bad and/or went bad as the result of another bad component. I am at a loss to identify these other components.

Any help/guidance would be much appreciated. Very Happy

Mark_A_W · Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 1:22 am Post subject:

If you have an old set of tubes, I would be fitting them before turning it on again.

JBoom · Joined: 02 Dec 2009 Posts: 17

If only I had waited for some replys before continuing to tinker. The green tube literally exploded on my last attempt. Sad

I guess I will take this as a sign since I don't really have the money to replace the tube.

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

Your last name fits your situation. Wink

BTW that sucks ! sorry

Nashou

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

I might have a blue Marquee tube, but you'd need to do a neck board mod and remove it from the marquee housing. Where you located?

Athanasios

JBoom · Joined: 02 Dec 2009 Posts: 17

I think it has 8" Sony tubes, would the Marquee tubes work?. And it was the green one that shattered. Even if I got a replacement tube, there is still the issue described in the first post to deal with. I think this whole project may be beyond my capabilities, compounded by the fact that I can't find a service manual to save my life.

And here I thought I was gunna get this thing up and running with a $2.90 IC. Sad

I'm in Cincinnati, OH BTW.

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 3:17 am Post subject:

You're pretty much screwed, sorry! Finding good Sony greens is almost impossible, and the Marquee tubes won't fit no matter what you do, the mounting are different.

The problem with the H collapse should not be in the H shift board, so I'll bet you have multiple issues in the set, not to mention the dead tube. Sorry!

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 3:19 am Post subject:

A moment of silence for a newbie tinkerer and his latest door stop.

That sucks man. Occasionally we all make something go poof. ( I haven't in 19 years knock on wood Laughing

)

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 3:23 am Post subject:

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 3:25 am Post subject:

JBoom · Joined: 02 Dec 2009 Posts: 17

I have a Sony 61" rear projection TV. I'll steal the 6" tube from that and make it work with a little duct tape, bubble gum, super glue and pixie dust. Mr. Green

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

jask · Joined: 17 Mar 2006 Posts: 10187 Location: kamloops BC

JBoom · Joined: 02 Dec 2009 Posts: 17

That's what the pixie dust is for. Laughing

Tom.W · Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 6635

Did the Barco 801s use Sony tubes and did they all use ES focus ?

jask · Joined: 17 Mar 2006 Posts: 10187 Location: kamloops BC

801 are ES, 808 are EM, and ******EDIT ******** a list of the tubes used can be found here: http://www.curtpalme.com/PJSpecs.shtm

Tom.W · Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 6635

Except for the data/graphics 1209s and I believe some of the 1208s projectors that used MEC tubes.

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 3:57 am Post subject:

jask · Joined: 17 Mar 2006 Posts: 10187 Location: kamloops BC

JBoom · Joined: 02 Dec 2009 Posts: 17

Just out of curosity, is this issue with putting different style tubes in the 1208s mostly mechanical? I ask this because I have access to a machine shop, and can probably make any sort of adapter to make a differect tube fit mechanically.