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deewaan1
Joined: 06 Apr 2008
Posts: 68
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| Posted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 5:06 am Post subject: |
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| Nashou66 wrote: | | macgyver655 wrote: | | Alright, Am I missing something with these Marquees? Isn't the background suppose to be black. Every grid image I've ever seen, the grid is strong and the background is black. Unless the G2 or brightness is cranked up. |
Your right mac, with the grid showing no raster should be lit up. unless he is raising G2 to show us the issue.
But when i ramp up G2 I never see the fold over like that. its almost like he has a run away raster and its reflecting back onto the tube face from the side of the bell housing. What I mean is the raster is scanning the sides of the tube and somehoe reflecting back onto it.
What happens if you make the raster very small like put H size to 0?
Athanasios |
No. I have the G2 down below what is suggested in the G2 setup instructions for each tube. But yes when I crank down the contrast and brightness to low levels it disappears. I can't display video very well at those levels. When I change the horizontal and vertical sizes to 0 the background is still lit up with the fold over in the top corner still visible.
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 5:19 am Post subject: |
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hmm, some times those levels on tims site vary from set to set. My g2's are either in the low 60's or lower than 60. ok lets set your black level first.
Put a 0 IRE pattern up from the DVE disc. Now set contrast and brightness to 50 so you have head room either way later.
I would set the drives to 35 red, 65 green, and blue at 40-50. Now looking into each tube lower G2 for ech color till the raster fades or the blacker than black bar on dve fades into the back ground leaving only the 2.5 IRE and 4 IRE bars visible. aslo to help do this correctly by not having the G2 onscreen menu show up washing out the phosphor hit the Mute button to make the menu disappear, then you can hit enter to cycle trough the colors with the menu not showing.
This has the black level set now correctly, one thing now is you will ned to adjust the red and blue g2's to get the right greyscale. leave the green g2 alone.
I found you'll have to raise the blues so the raster does light up a bit and the blacker than black will also be visible. but later you can lower brightness.
So now see if the image is viewable and if the fold over is there.
Athanasios
_________________
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deewaan1
Joined: 06 Apr 2008
Posts: 68
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| Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 4:20 am Post subject: |
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| Nashou66 wrote: | hmm, some times those levels on tims site vary from set to set. My g2's are either in the low 60's or lower than 60. ok lets set your black level first.
Put a 0 IRE pattern up from the DVE disc. Now set contrast and brightness to 50 so you have head room either way later.
I would set the drives to 35 red, 65 green, and blue at 40-50. Now looking into each tube lower G2 for ech color till the raster fades or the blacker than black bar on dve fades into the back ground leaving only the 2.5 IRE and 4 IRE bars visible. aslo to help do this correctly by not having the G2 onscreen menu show up washing out the phosphor hit the Mute button to make the menu disappear, then you can hit enter to cycle trough the colors with the menu not showing.
This has the black level set now correctly, one thing now is you will ned to adjust the red and blue g2's to get the right greyscale. leave the green g2 alone.
I found you'll have to raise the blues so the raster does light up a bit and the blacker than black will also be visible. but later you can lower brightness.
So now see if the image is viewable and if the fold over is there.
Athanasios |
Ok. Did all that and tubes look good. Can't see the fold over. Red drive is 35 G2 is 53, Green drive is 65 G2 is 55, and Blue drive is 50 G2 is 38. Don't know what happened to make the tubes freak out and get so bright. The only issue I notice now is that when I go through my PJ channels Blue tube is bright with retrace lines only on channel 5. It's good on all other channels even the ones with the same input which is 2.
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 4:26 am Post subject: |
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Ok I still say something is wrong with your HVPS or something is wrong on the blue VNB, a g2 of 38 is now way way to low. Something is amiss in that machine.
So at those levels how does the greyscale look?
Not sure what else to tell you at this point, but if its working i guess stick with those values.
How is the heater filament voltage from the LVPS at the P14 connector on the mother board right next to the Blue tub's neck board, its between the neck board and the side of the chassis.
it should read 6.35 v .
Athanasios
_________________
Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher
"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan
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deewaan1
Joined: 06 Apr 2008
Posts: 68
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| Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 12:28 am Post subject: |
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| Nashou66 wrote: | Ok I still say something is wrong with your HVPS or something is wrong on the blue VNB, a g2 of 38 is now way way to low. Something is amiss in that machine.
So at those levels how does the greyscale look?
Not sure what else to tell you at this point, but if its working i guess stick with those values.
How is the heater filament voltage from the LVPS at the P14 connector on the mother board right next to the Blue tub's neck board, its between the neck board and the side of the chassis.
it should read 6.35 v .
Athanasios |
Hi sorry I didn't get right back to you. I had checked the voltage and found it was 6.47 v on heater 1, heater 2 has no voltage. I never got around to posting this before I left for my holidays back in December. I've pretty much given up on solving this problem. I have switched out pretty much everything in the PJ but the tubes and no joy. I'm just going to set it up again the best I can and run it like this till it dies. I'll adjust the drives and G2 so that I can't see the line but still have a good picture. Thanks for all the help.
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deewaan1
Joined: 06 Apr 2008
Posts: 68
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| Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 4:51 am Post subject: |
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Just an update for anyone else that experiences this problem. After reinstalling the PJ on the ceiling and doing a complete reset. Then doing a guided mechanical setup. The projector is up and running normally. It could have been an issue with the raster position on all three tubes. I had noticed when trouble shooting that the raster position was closer to the left side of the three tubes than normal. I don't know what would cause all three to shift like that at the same time but anyway after the mechanical setup and centering of the rasters it is working fine. Let’s just hope it stays that way for awhile. Thanks again for all the help guys. Hope this fix helps someone else in the future.
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 4:54 am Post subject: |
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| deewaan1 wrote: | | Just an update for anyone else that experiences this problem. After reinstalling the PJ on the ceiling and doing a complete reset. Then doing a guided mechanical setup. The projector is up and running normally. It could have been an issue with the raster position on all three tubes. I had noticed when trouble shooting that the raster position was closer to the left side of the three tubes than normal. I don't know what would cause all three to shift like that at the same time but anyway after the mechanical setup and centering of the rasters it is working fine. Let’s just hope it stays that way for awhile. Thanks again for all the help guys. Hope this fix helps someone else in the future. |
Glad you got it working but 6.47 is too high for the heater voltage. You need to fix that. you can for now adjust the pot in the LVPS but i would do the proper repair. its in my thread link .
Athanasios
_________________
Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher
"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 4:27 pm Post subject: |
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| deewaan1 wrote: | | Hi sorry I didn't get right back to you. I had checked the voltage and found it was 6.47 v on heater 1, heater 2 has no voltage. I'm just going to set it up again the best I can and run it like this till it dies. . |
if you don't fix that heater voltage it will kill one or more tubes quickly. Do what Nash said and modify the LVPS per the thread instructions.
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energeezer
Joined: 08 Aug 2007
Posts: 67
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| Posted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 11:46 pm Post subject: |
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Yes Yes Yes.
I'm happy this is fixed. I've been helping Deewan from the start and we did swap every single board with my brothers 8500 boards and the problem remained. Clearly every one here was stumped. Deewan had given up and asked me to help him hoist the beast one last time and he would watch it with the existing issue and just live with it. I've seen a few PJs and have noticed that for no good reason these things can just change their raster setup among other things. He then mentioned that he noticed the raster had moved ever so slightly. I had never seen it on a Marquee but had seen it on BG800s and 808s. This type of uncommanded change sometimes results in weird ghosting or image folding issues. After we hoisted the beast I recommended he do a full reset and then full mechanical setup from scratch as if he just took it out of the box. I left his place with my fingers crossed because I was by no means sure this was the problem.
Its water under the bridge now I guess.
I'm even more happy Deewan won't now have to go digital because I just bought a 60" Sharp LCD TV for my upstairs. The first thing I did after setup was throw in a movie and watch for a few minutes with my brother then head downstairs and fire up the same scenes on my XG1352.
At first it looked as if the CRT had met its match but then the not so bright scenes came and it was obvious to both of us that the XG still throws an overall better image. I realize the Sharp is not the pinnacle of flat screens but sheesh its 2010 and the XG is 1998 and its throwing a 100" image. LOL.
So now Deewan tells me the Marquee seems a little challenged in the color Gamut. I guess he is getting a little more picky because he never mentioned it before. I explained to him that one of the Marquee Air Coupled machines known image shortcomings is the tint of the red.
I now link him to this
http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=5bc4e75048c632b04a2b647ee50ff164&threadid=349017&highlight=rosco
I'll be taking a red rosco to his place to see if he can live with the better color and mild decrease in optical focus. If not then I guess he needs color corrected lenses.
Thats another story.
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 12:45 am Post subject: |
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| energeezer wrote: | Yes Yes Yes.
I'm happy this is fixed. I've been helping Deewan from the start and we did swap every single board with my brothers 8500 boards and the problem remained. Clearly every one here was stumped. Deewan had given up and asked me to help him hoist the beast one last time and he would watch it with the existing issue and just live with it. I've seen a few PJs and have noticed that for no good reason these things can just change their raster setup among other things. He then mentioned that he noticed the raster had moved ever so slightly. I had never seen it on a Marquee but had seen it on BG800s and 808s. This type of uncommanded change sometimes results in weird ghosting or image folding issues. After we hoisted the beast I recommended he do a full reset and then full mechanical setup from scratch as if he just took it out of the box. I left his place with my fingers crossed because I was by no means sure this was the problem.
Its water under the bridge now I guess.
I'm even more happy Deewan won't now have to go digital because I just bought a 60" Sharp LCD TV for my upstairs. The first thing I did after setup was throw in a movie and watch for a few minutes with my brother then head downstairs and fire up the same scenes on my XG1352.
At first it looked as if the CRT had met its match but then the not so bright scenes came and it was obvious to both of us that the XG still throws an overall better image. I realize the Sharp is not the pinnacle of flat screens but sheesh its 2010 and the XG is 1998 and its throwing a 100" image. LOL.
So now Deewan tells me the Marquee seems a little challenged in the color Gamut. I guess he is getting a little more picky because he never mentioned it before. I explained to him that one of the Marquee Air Coupled machines known image shortcomings is the tint of the red.
I now link him to this
http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=5bc4e75048c632b04a2b647ee50ff164&threadid=349017&highlight=rosco
I'll be taking a red rosco to his place to see if he can live with the better color and mild decrease in optical focus. If not then I guess he needs color corrected lenses.
Thats another story. |
Yep, Sometimes a complete reset will fix weird issues, but what is weird he swapped CLM's Unless there is something saved on the back plane that an Initialization also clears there.
Glad its working for now ! 
Nashou
_________________
Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher
"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan
One Smart Dog!!!
Marquee High Performance Bellows now shipping!!
Marquee Modifications and Performance Enhancement
Marquee C-element and Bellow removal
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 2:08 am Post subject: |
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fix that P14 voltage or it won't be working for long 
Also I would add the HD-145 color filtered lenses if he really wants good colors, NEC's had those one every machine. Also, an electronics upgrade helps here too.
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