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AnalogRocks
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Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G

Posted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 3:48 am    Post subject:

While 1.4 is a good starting point don't forget that you have to feed it a signal of the type you intend to use ( eg 1080i, 720p 1024x768 etc... ) before determining where exactly it's going to go.

You'll need to maximize the rasters but stay within any wear area that's already present on the tube face or you'll end up with a band on your screen.

Get your signals straitened out first, maximize the rasters then throw a picture and move the projector forward/backward to fit your screen. This is where leaving it on the floor for a bit comes in handy. Once you know exactly where you need it. Set up your custom mount and have at it.

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1031



Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 657
Location: Finland

Posted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 10:06 am    Post subject:

stefuel wrote:
What are you curious about the tubes or fitting Marquee LC's into a AmPro. I have another AmPro mod that I was working on with Scott. I had always wanted raster centering rings on my AmPro. As you know, AmPro's use electronic centering. However, at high scan-rates, almost full right shift is required to center it. Scott sent me what he thought would work in the form of magnetized rings. I modded a set of focus yokes and incorporated the rings on them. I set them to Scott for testing. The design was sound but the rings he sent me were bogus. My hopes for that mod was to reduce electronic strain and reduce heat.


Is this type rastercentering rings out of question?
https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=2498.html

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416ray4538



Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 517
Location: near Toronto Ont

Posted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 9:51 pm    Post subject:

AnalogRocks wrote:
While 1.4 is a good starting point don't forget that you have to feed it a signal of the type you intend to use ( eg 1080i, 720p 1024x768 etc... ) before determining where exactly it's going to go.

You'll need to maximize the rasters but stay within any wear area that's already present on the tube face or you'll end up with a band on your screen.

Get your signals straitened out first, maximize the rasters then throw a picture and move the projector forward/backward to fit your screen. This is where leaving it on the floor for a bit comes in handy. Once you know exactly where you need it. Set up your custom mount and have at it.


Good advice. I intend to play with it for a little while before hanging it. The manual could be clearer but whatever. It makes sense to initialize the electronic adjustments so that maximum range is available before setting the manual adjustments. ( focus, position, size, alignment.)This is covered but a lot of back and forth required. Makes sense to write my own notes on sequence referenced to pages in the manual. As far as having the grey stuff I have my moments like most of us but it's no replacement for having done it. It appears that several (50) sets of adjustments can be stored but I have to start somewhere. My screen is 5' X 9' , the projector guns are round; occasionally the picture will be 4 X 3. At 16 X 9 the longest distance is obvious and everything else ultimately has to fit on that. A chat with someone who has done it would be helpfull (DUH). Oh that's why we have forums. Cool. Thumbs Up
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stefuel



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3353
Location: Green Harbor MA USA

Posted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 11:53 pm    Post subject:

Put the projector on the floor about 130 inches from a white wall. Set each of the lenses 2 adjustments to mid point. The lens flapping bolts (large allen head bolts) on the lens mounts should be gradually turned in all the way till they bottom out, then back out 1-1/4 turns. This is your starting point. Turn on the projector and press help. The instructions will come from the green gun. Rough focus the green lens adjustments on the first page so you can read it. Just follow the instructions and you'll have a watchable image in about a hour. This will walk you through your first time set up. You will need a long 3/8ths allen ball driver to make the lens flapping adjustments. Try not to read to much into the instructions. Just do what it says. Trust me. After you do it a few times, you won't need the help screen any more. If I'm telling a un-truth, may Pete beat me to death with a Barco.
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A Barco is only a AmPro with training wheels

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416ray4538



Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 517
Location: near Toronto Ont

Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 12:04 am    Post subject:

Wow thanks. I just got 2 of my daughters friends to help me carry it into the room at pretty close to the distance you suggested. Manually lining the guns up using the crosshairs then the other patterns it fills most of the screen, that's most, so down to finer adjustments next and probably back a little. I ordered a transcoder off this site so when it comes I'll continue as you said with the help menu (downside-up). Soon after... gotta get a B-ray. More boxes to make the B-ray work?? Why not if loooks good.
Thanks to all for the moment.
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416ray4538



Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 517
Location: near Toronto Ont

Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 3:43 am    Post subject:

Help shows in green against a blue background fired of course by the blue gun. Hash border is is incomplete and some letters missing at beginning of lines on lower right as viewed, so in right side up that would be problem with upper left. My guess is that green picture is misadjusted and vanishes off of raster?The red gun was turned all the way in (physical adjustment) so the projector had been mounted over the left shoulder. The help is in 4 X 3 so maybe not a good guage for distance. Sure am glad I didn't stick it to the ceiling yet.

Last edited by 416ray4538 on Sat Aug 08, 2009 2:45 pm; edited 1 time in total
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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G

Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 5:09 am    Post subject:

Push the "Blanking" button and back off all the blanking so you can see the whole help screen.
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stefuel



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3353
Location: Green Harbor MA USA

Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 10:38 am    Post subject:

"downside-up"
If you mean you are seeing the text wrong then you need to follow the instructions for scan reversal. It's in the manual and requires unplugging and reversing two cards. Very easy.

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Chip
A Barco is only a AmPro with training wheels

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416ray4538



Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 517
Location: near Toronto Ont

Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 1:14 pm    Post subject:

just upside down because the projector is upside down, but yeah the beginning of some lines doesn't show, and the help menu is 4 by 3 so with the distance proper the help top and bottom miss the screen. i don't want to set up the distance just for the help menu, because then i would have space on both sides of the screen, but i'll get it figured out anyway .. with a little help from you folks.

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stefuel



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3353
Location: Green Harbor MA USA

Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 3:30 pm    Post subject:

The projector is designed to do table or ceiling mount with front or rear projection. It takes only a few minutes to correct it for the time you have it table/front configuration. Any time you move it, you'll have to start from scratch. Set it up correctly for the floor/table mount so you can learn it better. So shut up and do what your told Mr. Green
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Chip
A Barco is only a AmPro with training wheels

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416ray4538



Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 517
Location: near Toronto Ont

Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 11:09 pm    Post subject:

Doing what I'm told I can usually manage; shutting up I'm not so good at.
I'm waiting for a transcoder and in the meantime I'm sorting out the manual and the setup ritual (on the floor). It's making sense for the most part; the manual doesn't seem to be written in any particular order but so what. I do have a question.
The manual talks about turning registration on and off but doesn't define registration. Registration to me means getting several printers to print their color on the right spot and so the paper has to stop in the same position in each printer. Convergence is used to mean this is this context. Am I guessing right that with registration on adjustments made to green affect red and blue also? Question
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stefuel



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3353
Location: Green Harbor MA USA

Posted: Sun Aug 16, 2009 10:45 am    Post subject:

416ray4538 wrote:
Doing what I'm told I can usually manage; shutting up I'm not so good at.
I'm waiting for a transcoder and in the meantime I'm sorting out the manual and the setup ritual (on the floor). It's making sense for the most part; the manual doesn't seem to be written in any particular order but so what. I do have a question.
The manual talks about turning registration on and off but doesn't define registration. Registration to me means getting several printers to print their color on the right spot and so the paper has to stop in the same position in each printer. Convergence is used to mean this is this context. Am I guessing right that with registration on adjustments made to green affect red and blue also? Question


You are close. When you turn the registration off you are seeing what the image is like with no convergence. The only thing it does not effect is the red and blue static vertical shift. If you have the projector set up correctly, when you turn off the registration, the image should still be perfect in the center but off all around the edges.
If you use the "HELP" menu to set up the projector and follow it all the way through, it will automatically turn off/on the registration for you at the correct time in the process. This is why I told you to use "HELP" before and just do what you are told. Don't try to read anything into it. AmPro's "HELP" menu is quite good. They are designed for someone who has no idea what they are doing. The "HELP" menu will not work for you if you think you are smarter that the projector and skip or do something other then what you are told.

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A Barco is only a AmPro with training wheels

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416ray4538



Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 517
Location: near Toronto Ont

Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 11:24 pm    Post subject:

OK got a break out cable. Hooked it up to the transcoder. No signal. Hooked it up to my laptop: no signal.
Any thoughts??

That's wierd my desktop shows on screen now. Takes time to see a signal??

My desktop shows no problem. It looks like the projector works!!!!!
When I plug the breakout cable into the transcoder I get a hum from the speakers (usually a bad sign) and no signal into the projector. The input to the transcoder is from my preamp component out (red Pr, Blue Pb, Green y) Blue and green are reversed on the transcoder but ...... My first impression is maybe a fault with the transcoder but more likely I'm missing something obvious. Ever notice how the really obvious things are the easiest to miss or is it just me?
Any thoughts are appreciated.


Last edited by 416ray4538 on Wed Aug 26, 2009 12:19 am; edited 1 time in total
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416ray4538



Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 517
Location: near Toronto Ont

Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 12:06 am    Post subject:

Found the problem. Bypassed the preamp and connected to DVD output and now there's a picture. I was reluctant to blame the preamp; it just came back from the shop. 3 months plus a few dollars. If I complain I'll be without it again so wired direct looks like how it's gonna be. What the h... less connections that way . Thanks all
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stefuel



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3353
Location: Green Harbor MA USA

Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 1:58 am    Post subject:

Now all you need is a long 3/8ths (10MM may also work) allen/ball driver to adjust the lenses. That and the help button and you're good to go. Have at it Thumbs Up
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Chip
A Barco is only a AmPro with training wheels

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416ray4538



Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 517
Location: near Toronto Ont

Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 6:52 pm    Post subject:

The help menu really does help. On the floor everything went well. Now the projector is hanging and the lenses won't pivot. The mounts in the manual are in a different position than they are in the real world but that"s easy. Somehow the mounts are interfering with the pivots?
The size was set to 70% which seems a bit of a waste; when I look into the lenses I see what I presume to be the useable portion of the face of the CRT, there's a lot of margin around the picture. Any suggestions what a more realistic margin should be?
Thanks
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Robert A. Hill



Joined: 19 May 2006
Posts: 182
Location: Simpsonville, SC

Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 10:02 pm    Post subject:

Sometimes the crt s or neck cards will get caught on a cable. This will make it very difficult to pivot the tubes. Do not force them as you may break something. Open the convergence trays and see if anything is preventing the tubes from swinging.

If the image is too small, you have located the projector too far from the screen. You can move the pj closer and run a larger image. Make sure you are using your preferrred resolution/source when you do this. With my 3600, I see a big difference in size depending on the source. Do not let the image extend over the tube edge! This will qucikly over stress the power supply and could crack the tube by excessive heating.
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416ray4538



Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 517
Location: near Toronto Ont

Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 12:22 am    Post subject:

Thanks.
By extending past the tube edge I'm assuming that the edge of the image would disappear when looking into the CRT.
I relieved the tension on the mounting bolts and the pivots freed up. Rather than tighten the bolts into the projector I'll use backup nuts so that there's no tension on the chassis of the projector.
Thanks.
I'd like to hear more about your 3600 if you're in typing mood.
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416ray4538



Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 517
Location: near Toronto Ont

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 12:37 am    Post subject:

Ampro 4600 is hanging from the ceiling. I've been running it on my old POS DVD player. Fun but some improvement in picture quality would be nice. I bought a Blu-ray player, an HDFury2 and a box 2220. The box 2220 has been hooked up all along to make the connection possible. Connecting the blu-ray and the HDFury 2 has yielded a large clock (tick-tock-tick-tock) instead of a nifty picture on my screen. Any ideas?
Thanks
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 12:54 am    Post subject:

Do you have the power supply for the FUry2?
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