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Corleone88
Joined: 09 Dec 2006
Posts: 474
Location: France
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| Posted: Sat Jul 18, 2009 9:45 pm Post subject: Barco 808: R7621055 board (port 3) |
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Hi,
I am changing caps on this board and some of them (10microF) do not seem to have polarity: C3,C4, C13, C14 and C23 for example. The picture on the board representing the caps does not look as usual (+ polarity is not shown). Am I wrong?
As I am using only port 3, I am looking for the list of caps used for the RGB signal through the R767481 board (switcher). Does anybody have a picture of the design for this switcher board or (better) the list of the caps that I need to change?
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Ile
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland
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Corleone88
Joined: 09 Dec 2006
Posts: 474
Location: France
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| Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 4:51 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks very much Ile. I also have C53, C54, C43 and C44 to change with no polarity. Do you have them as well (even you didn't seem to have changed these caps)? You didn't seem to have replace all the caps (I noticed the radial blue caps). Any particular reason?
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Corleone88
Joined: 09 Dec 2006
Posts: 474
Location: France
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| Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 10:00 am Post subject: |
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Well I answer the question myself : these caps don't change the RGB signal quality  .
Meanwhile, I noticed a change in the colors of the picture. I had my system calibrated before I changed the caps (RGB amps, RGB second board and SP) and now it seems that I have to do it again. For example, the faces look redish.
Is it normal?
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Ile
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland
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| Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:16 am Post subject: |
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Chancing caps shouldn't chance grayscale that much, but some chances can happen to high hour boards.
You probably installed rgb amps other way around, those have some variation in gain and cut-off levels.
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Corleone88
Joined: 09 Dec 2006
Posts: 474
Location: France
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| Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 5:15 pm Post subject: |
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That's right, I didn't check the order for RGB amps.
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Corleone88
Joined: 09 Dec 2006
Posts: 474
Location: France
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| Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 9:56 am Post subject: |
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Where are the values of the gain and cut-off stored? In the RGB amps?
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Ile
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland
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| Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 10:09 am Post subject: |
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| Corleone88 wrote: | | Where are the values of the gain and cut-off stored? In the RGB amps? |
Amps have manual pots for factory calibration with test picture and scope. No need for this adjustment.
Use custom black and white adjustment from menu to compensate. These affect signal in driver board.
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Corleone88
Joined: 09 Dec 2006
Posts: 474
Location: France
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| Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 9:34 pm Post subject: |
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Ile,
After changing the 6 caps on the driver board, I have an issue: my red tube lights up for a few seconds after starting my pj, and then shuts down. I checked what I have done, but I didn't see any soldering problem. Any idea about what can be wrong?
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Ile
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:30 am Post subject: |
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| Corleone88 wrote: |
Ile,
After changing the 6 caps on the driver board, I have an issue: my red tube lights up for a few seconds after starting my pj, and then shuts down. I checked what I have done, but I didn't see any soldering problem. Any idea about what can be wrong? |
Check again caps polarities from my picture. Maybe one cap is installed wrong way and that cause problem.
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Corleone88
Joined: 09 Dec 2006
Posts: 474
Location: France
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 1:12 pm Post subject: |
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I checked and that seems ok. I was wondering more of a problem with the caps values, could please you check if these values are correct :
C36 = 10mF 50V
C22 = 2.2mF 100V
C33 =10mF 25V
C459 = 10mF 50V
C23 = 2.2mF 100V
C24 = 2.2mF 100V
Strange to have the red tube lighting up for 2 seconds only...
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Ile
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 3:06 pm Post subject: |
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| Corleone88 wrote: | I checked and that seems ok. I was wondering more of a problem with the caps values, could please you check if these values are correct :
C36 = 10mF 50V
C22 = 2.2mF 100V
C33 =10mF 25V
C459 = 10mF 50V
C23 = 2.2mF 100V
C24 = 2.2mF 100V
Strange to have the red tube lighting up for 2 seconds only... |
Values are ok.
Maybe either one of those new caps in red line was defective (C22 or C36).
Can you test with other driver board?
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Corleone88
Joined: 09 Dec 2006
Posts: 474
Location: France
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 3:57 pm Post subject: |
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I put back the old caps for C22 and C36 and I have tstill the same problem.
I bought a BD801s recently for spare parts. I will have it on Wednesday. I will try with the spare driver board.
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