CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[brenwaterys]

A couple of questions that came up when I was working on my BG808 this weekend. I do have a spare BG808 that I can swap parts if necessary. Both of these issues should be independent of the source that I am using but I will list that chain in case it isn't.

PS3 (1080p) -> HDFury1 -> BUF2000 -> BG808

1) I finally got around to checking the G2 so I followed the instructions in the users manual as well as the interactive setup menu. I went into the menu on the projector where it said to slowly turn the pot until the LED turns off. I figured it would be fairly straight forward but I was unable to get the LED to turn off regardless of how much I turned the pot. Am I doing something wrong or does this indicate problems elsewhere. If I remember correctly this projector has 10,000+ hours on it on what I think are the original tubes - B & G tubes are 6's with R being a 7. Would low emissions cause this? I also had to lower the +17v power supply down from 17.65 - could this have caused what I am seeing (or anything else for that matter?)

2) As I am trying to place the image inside of the existing wear on the tubes I have to drop the vertical and horizontal size a fair amount. When I get the horizontal size close to where I want it I get rollover in the image on the right side and stretching in the image on the left. I will try to get some pictures taken to show this. I have done a complete reset to mid position and removed all convergence in an effort to remove this but I still get the same problem when I get the image size down to where I fit inside the wear (92" diagonal vs. good raster usage would give me 110" diag 16x9). My vertical size is around 9 (on the 0-100 scale) could this be causing the problem with the H phase / H size?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[secstate]

For question one you need to turn very, very, very slowly. And I mean barely moving slowly. It drove me nuts the first time i tried to adjust a g2 in a Barco.

[brenwaterys]

Ok - I guess I assumed that it operated like this: (where X is the desired setting)

pot stop ------LED ON ----- X ----- LED OFF ----- pot stop

Instead, if I understand what you are saying is it operates like this: (where LED OFF is the desired setting)

pot stop ----- LED ON ----- LED OFF ------ LED ON ------ pot stop

Is this correct?
Thanks

[Ile]

1. Forget leds, adjustment pot for led could drift after 10k hours and then led wont go off ever. Other option is that somebody have messed those adjustment pots from rgb amps...

Select 6500K from color menu.
Set brightness to 50 and contrast to zero. Project video black picture and adjust G2 pots from G2 board until you just barely see rasters gloving when you look in to tubes. Then tweak grayscale from custom color menu.

2. First adjust plankings off from all edges. Set Hwidth to near min. Go to Hphase menu and set contrast to 10 and brightness to 70. Look in to tubes and adjust Hphase so that active picture is in center of raster. Now you should have least 10mm unused raster in both side of picture in tubes, if not your source have bad timing settings. Now you can adjust Hphase so that picture is bit more in right from center, so that beam have more time to stabilize before actual picture. This prevent raster ringing (=vertical beams near left edge) that can be seen with higher resolutions.

Then adjust picture to center of the green tube with raster centering and adjust width and height...

[secstate]

[brenwaterys]

That information will definitely help setting the G2 set - hopefully in the next couple of weeks I will get a chance to try out both suggestions. I will also give Ile's suggestions a try on the H phase / H size issue. Unfortunately I have to get the house painted first. Thanks for all of the help.