CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

freak.zanjay · Joined: 09 Jan 2010 Posts: 1

It is not advisable to frame insulated boards against the cement wall because it may trap water. The next thing you know you are worrying about mold build ups. There are lots of better ways to take care of the sound. Show it first to a trusted home improvement agent and ask their opinion. Basement Dehumidifier

CRT_Ben · Joined: 28 Aug 2006 Posts: 1684 Location: Northern Virginia

OK, I'm bringing this thread back from the grave Smile

My basement will hopefully soon be a reality as two of my friends, one of which is a home builder, are coming to help in a few weeks to frame out the space and whatever else we can do in a weekend. Most of my basement is already finished, the new space to be completed is approximately 15x20, with only one exterior wall. Fortunately, it seems that Fairfax County Code doesn't include restrictions on insulation so we decided we'll go the high road and pull permits for everything (seems rediculous to me that I need permits to finish the remaining 1/4 of my basement, but whatever).

It seems like we have two schools of thought as far as insulation:

SC likes 2" XPS directly against the foundation followed by a narrow air gap (optional) followed by standard 2x4 framing with unfaced batt insulation.

Ron likes a 1.5-2" air gap between the foundation and standard 2x4 framing with unfaced batt insulation.

Obviously SC's method provides a higher R-value, but SC also describes the importance of the XPS preventing interior air from condensing on the wall. On the other hand, Ron states no moisture problems with his method of construction due to the air flow. I'm not too worried about achieving the max R-value since DC doesn't get terribly cold, so I'm more concerned with avoiding moisture problems. Both methods require the studs to be placed approx. 2" from the wall so space requirements are the same. This is a very interesting read that supports SC's method: http://www.eere.energy.gov/buildings/building_america/pdfs/db/35017.pdf

Another thing to consider is I'll be tearing out the wood paneling in an adjacent basement room which will become the theater. Currently, I believe the room is constructed with standard 2x4 framing directly against the foundation, and I'd rather not re-frame the room. I'm pretty sure there is zero insulation in there - just wood paneling, framing, foundation - so should I just stuff standard unfaced batt in there (no vapor barrier) and call it done?

ecrabb · Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 11:36 pm Post subject:

Ben, have you looked at the Subfloors for a basement? thread at all? The discussion turned to sub-grade foundation in general, and there's some good info.

More important, Lotree posted a good Holmes on Holmes video on the subject:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jSuWbdJy5A

SC

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 4:16 am Post subject:

ronholm · Joined: 26 Jan 2007 Posts: 12111

Watching that clown screw all the framing lumber in is more than I can take... I love what he does helping folks out and all... but he is just a bit to proud sometimes.

I try hard to like him... but to often he is one of those guys that know oooohhh so much better than everybody else and is busy making mistakes fixing stuff that isn't broken.... Or simply overkilling stuff and causing problems..

Screw a framing wall together and when you inevitably find it a smidge out of level or square.. then you persuade the wall or single stud into place... yeah... your stupid screws just held the wall real good until they didn't huh... crapp you wana screw the wall together use steel studs.. its really the best way anyway.... Makes me wana do a show ripping out his crap and putting steel in... LMFAO...

dont mean to knock his good works though he leaves those places much better than he finds them.. and I am all about that

tri_joel · Joined: 03 Jul 2007 Posts: 646 Location: Northern Virginia

tri_joel · Joined: 03 Jul 2007 Posts: 646 Location: Northern Virginia

I like how in one episode he bad-mouths some contractor for doing something that Holmes dis in a previous episode. For example, Holmes is a big Kerdi guy - probably gets the stuff for free Schluter. Anyway, kerdi is IMHO the best waterproofing shower system. He was explaining in one show that grout and thinset are pourous and should not be considered waterproofing - no brainer. A few episodes later he is installing a tub/shower combo. He explains to leave the CBU off the tub lip 1/2 inch to allow for movement - again good advise. Then they kerdied the walls and leave the kedi short 1/2 inch and fill the gap with thinset, "because thinset is waterproof," he says. But Holmes - you said earlier that its not, oh and by the way, the thinset in the gap negates the purpose of the gap - it doesn't allow movement dumb-dumb.

I like his show, I watch it all the time. I also use screws when framing. But all of my work is interiors so the screws are toe-nailed in most cases so it's easier than nails to move around if need be. I couldn't imagine screwing together an entire house, as Holmes seems to think is the only way to do it.

johndeniel · Guest

This is looking dangerous for your home. You should insulate it properly. It would be better you should talk with an electrician. You can also place a wood panel. These wires should be within in plastic pipes. Then you should cement them on the wall. This would reduce the sparking problem.