CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[Ridebreck]

[Nashou66]

So Dragan, How are things holding up... I hope the install is doing its job. Has the Silicon cured fully? that stuff is a pain in the Arse!!!!

Athanasios

[Mark_A_W]

Why don't you guys get those housings black anodised so you don't end up with cloudy glycol?

You've fixed the bellows, now fix the housings! (I'm really impressed by the bellows initiative guys.)

[draganm]

[Nashou66]

[1031]

I havent talked about this at public yet..But here it goes. I was worried also how that old anodisation will work, screw holes showed allready little corrosion etc..
I "paintet" whole lc-chamber (metal parts that are exposed to glycol) with Hylomar RTV-silicone and that seems to work pretty ok. At least these few months that has worked ok. I pulled small tubing (heat shrink tube) that had RTV around it through those fill holes so there is no exposed metal that glycol can thouch. Part of those fill holes is without that tube so that screw can be installed and when i installed those screws i used little RTV-silicon so that tube inside fill hole is "sealed" with RTV when screw is in its place. Will that hold for long time hard to say yet? time will tell
One thing, that has on my mind that there in not so much heat transfert now because silicone between glycol and metal acts like insulate, but i think that is not big issue.

That black Hylomar was actually quite easy to "paint" to those metal surfaces. I used very small foam paint roller and i leaved nice matte surface.

[draganm]

[cmjohnson]

There are some finishes developed for the gun industry that are insanely tough and extremely chemically resistant. I would recommend Cerrocote if LC parts have to be refinished. Cerrocote is removed by sandblasting. Nothing else, really.

There's also KG Guncote, and there are some pretty incredible baked-on epoxy finishes to look at as well.

For anodizing, I would recommend HARD COAT anodizing, which is considerably tougher than standard anodizing. It's a thicker build of
anodizing and it's harder and has greater chemical resistance.


Compatibility tests SHOULD be performed. It would be very nice to know that the new bellows material doesn't have any nasty
interactions with the glycol or aluminum LC chamber parts, regardless of finish.

Personally, I was thinking that the new bellows would be made of a very high grade of silicone, and was surprised to learn what was
selected. But Apple's chemical engineers know WAY more about this stuff than I do.

CJ

[draganm]

[stefuel]

I would take the chambers minus the tubes to a automotive machine shop and have the areas in question glass beaded to remove the old coating. Then I would find a hobby shop that deals in model airplanes. Ask for spray cans of Dope. This paint stands up to nitromethane. I don't think that projection fluid will touch it. One can of primer and one of flat black should do many couplings.

[km987654]

I have painted a LC tank that had some scratches with a mat black etching primer. I was planning to only use the tube for a short time but as of today that tube is still in the projector and has been now for 6 months. There does not seem to be any apparent reaction as the glycol is still clear.

[Nashou66]

[km987654]

[Nashou66]

[stefuel]

That is a good score. Most primers don't adhere well to aluminum. "etching" primers are supposed to work with aluminum.
I have never seen it in black though.

[km987654]

[Nashou66]

Thanks for the brand name.... i wonder if this would work as well? And would i still use epoxy paint after?

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1141&itemType=PRODUCT



Athanasios

[km987654]

You may need to cover the primer with something. The etch primer was necessary to stick to the aluminium but I have no idea if it will resist glycol over time. The epoxy enamel may help here or perhaps something else.

[draganm]

Just a final follow up, I filleld the tube with coolant 2 days ago and everythign is fine. Longer term etsting hopefully over the summer wit hPJ in use.

[Mr. Green]