CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

dturco · Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 4:49 pm Post subject:

I was wondering what to use to clean the Green C-Element with. I am thinking about using the cleaner I use for my glasses and the cleaning cloth. I did not have to clean the Red C- Element because it was sealed NIB not a speck of dust on it. My water is from a well and has terrible mineral deposit in it.

Maybe bottled water?

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

Just clean water is all that is needed, clean filtered water would be best.

Athanasios

Gino · Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 4:53 am Post subject:

I'd vote for Frankenyokes if it were an option. It's the only mod I've done to my spare 9500LC Ultra, although it came with a corrected red C-element. Next I plan to go dragan's mods.

stefuel · Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:41 pm Post subject:

Based on the bulk of todays Marquee posts, I think the first mod is the one that keeps it running longer then 2 seconds. Laughing

Heck, even AnalogRocks AmPro 4000 runs longer than that Thumbs Up

dturco · Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 9:21 pm Post subject:

That remains to be seen as I have to put the tubes back in to find out Exclamation

If not it's back to the How do I thread Rolling Eyes

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

stefuel · Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 11:09 pm Post subject:

dturco · Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 7:31 pm Post subject:

All 3 bellows are in the tube housings. No Leaks as of now. These last 2 were a little bit different on the install. I did not put the housing together on these because they would not go together if everything was bolted up.The bellows kept coming off the housing as the C- Element was put in place. This didn't happen on the Red tube or maybe I just didn't notice the movement, or got real lucky the first time out. So I stood the tube assembly up being careful of the tube pins, left the housings loose, and installed the C-elements in this orientation. Then the assembly was put back together as it was already lined up.

There are no leaks and I don't think there will be, but erring on the side of caution I will wait a few more days to put GOZER back together.

Whatever the case it is really simple to do. Just be careful, take your time, and always trust your instincts. If it doesn't feel right it probably isn't.

Also the Unistrut ceiling mount is up and waiting for GOZER. It has been weight tested. I did pull-ups on it. Thumbs Up

schmoe · Joined: 30 Mar 2008 Posts: 374 Location: Seattle, WA

"We must prepare for the coming of Gozer."

dturco · Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 4:29 pm Post subject:

It's ALIVE Exclamation

I know I said I was going to wait a couple of days. Well the tubes were bone dry yesterday and dry today so... I put them in and fired it up!
And GOZER is alive! And the test grids are up and the Glycol is crystal clear, so clear I can see the inside of the chamber in detail.

Boy that old Glycol was dirty and Brown. Surprised

So far so good. Only one little problem the air bubbles in the Glycol and a small piece of something inside the green on the c-element. Hopefully this will settle to the bottom and the bubbles will work out with some run time. I believe the convection currents of the heated Glycol should do this.

We'll see.

stefuel · Posted: Wed Jul 08, 2009 9:58 am Post subject:

GOod job. Everyone complains about the bubbles the first time they do a LC of any brand. It will take a couple of weeks of hard running for the bubbles to work their way out of view. They will of course end up as a larger bubble at the top but that's not a bad thing. In the mean time, they will be hardly noticeable on screen.
From here, I'd button it up, set it up and run the $hit out of it for at least a week with many power up cycles to test reliability. Just turning it on and letting it run 24/7 is not a good test. My expreiance is most projector failures happen at start-up and not while it's running (assuming it's set up correctly).
Then hang the sucker, do a COMPLETE set up (or have it done for you) and then do a color calibration.

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

I would also keep an eye on the seals for glycol leakes after it heats up , you said you used no RTV correct? The heating of the Glycol will be the real test now, so keep an eye on them...i am curious to how well these new bellows hold up with no RTV on the seals.

Athanasios

dturco · Posted: Wed Jul 08, 2009 3:25 pm Post subject:

I ran GOZER for 6 hours last night. No leaks, and the bellows weren't even warm when I turned it off. I will Keep monitoring it. Also I did not use any RTV.

A note on installing the bellows DO NOT put the LC chamber together with the bolts before you install the C-Element. It will push the bellow off of the housing OR compress the bellow in such a way as to produce a brown ring on screen during bright scenes. My blue needs to be re-done to get rid of this phenomena.

This is my fault not the bellows, the red and green are fine. The blue never felt right but I went ahead any way. I'll fix it later.

draganm · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

I also put the C on last, I actually put the glycol in the chamber while its vertical then put the C on and seal it then i use the fill screws to top it off.

Athanasios

dturco · Posted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 4:01 am Post subject:

draganm · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado

i've assembled a number of these with the tube flat on the bench. Not sure what all the tilitng and leaving parts off is about but it doesn't matter i guess, whatever works for you in the end.

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

If you look at my advanced procedure for the Bellow and C-element removal( the one to not damage the bellow) you basically have to take the whole assembly apart.

Athanasios

dturco · Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 5:28 pm Post subject:

O.K., New tweak I have the Moome card older version VIM HD. It has HDMI and Y Pb Pr component inputs. The board stamp is

VIM HD VI. 02
2007.06.13
PJI-HD INC.

I see a small blue rectangle shaped box with 633to
x502 stamped on top with a tiny screw in the front of it.

Is this the Gamma trim pot? If so how does one adjust it from an unknown position while outside of the machine?

The picture is really good at this point just not great at shadow details.

Any suggestions. And oh yeah I have ringing while using short retrace is this harmful or just an annoyance?

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

the gamma adjustment doc is posted in Moomes forum somwhere.

Athanasios