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Ridebreck



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 943
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 2:32 pm    Post subject:

My apologies for not knowing this, but was this a gov liq score or did you find these somewhere else? Just curious.

Oh, and a belated YOU SUCK!!

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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 2:33 pm    Post subject:

Ridebreck wrote:
My apologies for not knowing this, but was this a gov liq score or did you find these somewhere else? Just curious.

Oh, and a belated YOU SUCK!!


the Gov liq auction in Alabama.

Nashou!!!!!

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1031



Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 657
Location: Finland

Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 2:39 pm    Post subject:

Nashou66 wrote:
1031 wrote:
I have one 8" tube set here (tube are near 5-7 rated) and housings are without bellows..Want to swap one thomas tube for 8" lc hardware?


Hmm this sounds tempting Jarmo........ i'll let you know in a few weeks. did you want another Blue?

Athanasios

Same here, i must think also. Hardest part (and time consuming) is to take tubes out at hardware, and iīm not sure if i have time to do that in near future..
But Pm if you have intrest for those.

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larryk



Joined: 23 Aug 2007
Posts: 106
Location: Edmonton Alberta

Posted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 2:33 am    Post subject:

Yes a Red One Camera will do 4k resolution very nicely. It's an amazing camera. I got to play with one at a workshop recently as we intend to shoot part of our feature on one, although The real scenic shots will still be 35mm film as it is still superior for that kind of thing. We filmmakers here in Edmonton have access to one from our local coop. Let me know when you can display it and I will send you the video to try it out. It's a bitch to edit but it looks amazing.

Larry
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draganm



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado

Posted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 4:15 am    Post subject:

Nashou66 wrote:
There were many people who knew but we all have to admit here most of us a cheap SOB's and even 1000 is too high for most I told Bruce I was going to id up to 1500 each, then in the excitement i told myself 2000 each as I would never find a NIB marquee again Athanasios
I'm betting you won't either. I wasn't smart enough to call the site manager and ask or I would have tried hard to get even 1
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nomadII



Joined: 16 Jun 2006
Posts: 252


Posted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 6:27 pm    Post subject:

Nashou66,

As for my prior statement re the 9" Conversion, the cost to % improvement equation simply does not make sense.
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 6:54 pm    Post subject:

nomadII wrote:
Nashou66,

As for my prior statement re the 9" Conversion, the cost to % improvement equation simply does not make sense.


Ahh.... but what if you have 2 sets of LC housings, over 6 sets of NIB 9 inch tubes plus many more of the critical greens, and a soon to be had unlimited supply of LC bellows for these? then would it be worth it? Oh and one more thing, the cost of all those parts were about the same maybe a little more than the cost of my Longbows. Smile Wink

Athanasios

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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 7:00 pm    Post subject:

draganm wrote:
Nashou66 wrote:
There were many people who knew but we all have to admit here most of us a cheap SOB's and even 1000 is too high for most I told Bruce I was going to id up to 1500 each, then in the excitement i told myself 2000 each as I would never find a NIB marquee again Athanasios
I'm betting you won't either. I wasn't smart enough to call the site manager and ask or I would have tried hard to get even 1


its not that you weren't smart enough, just that you didn't have the presences of mind to call Wink

However, the one Bruce has for sale i still think is a good deal for one of these, and trust me these are very very high bandwidth machines. To do the same with a 50 hour tubed older marquee ultra and mods would cost you more i'd think.

PS: I allowed Bruce to use my pics on Videogon for those who are curious.


Athanasios

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Spanky Ham



Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 5643
Location: Comedy Central

Posted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 11:04 pm    Post subject:

draganm wrote:
Nashou66 wrote:
There were many people who knew but we all have to admit here most of us a cheap SOB's and even 1000 is too high for most I told Bruce I was going to id up to 1500 each, then in the excitement i told myself 2000 each as I would never find a NIB marquee again Athanasios
I'm betting you won't either. I wasn't smart enough to call the site manager and ask or I would have tried hard to get even 1


How quickly you forget. I believe that was a NIB G70 in JAX from Dec 07. The bidding on that went to I think $1800. That was the auction that I talked to the manager about showing pics of the tubes and the pjs turned on. I even told him about this site, which he bookmarked. Unfortunately, not many CRTs have went through there.
I doubt this is the last of NIBs from the gov. There may not be many left, but there will probably be at least one or two. Of course, how many people will care after most have already switched to digital? Mr. Green
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 1:10 am    Post subject: First attempt with the longbow Blend(and stack)

Well i finally got around to play around with Actual blending of the LongBows. Like many have said this is not an easy task, and I'm glad I decided to mess around with them on the floor first so I could learn my way around the C2-2250. The hardest part for sure will be the actual alignment and placement of the PJ for the best use of the Phosphor. This is still the part I need to get right(even though this will be one of many trial runs) and another person around would be
much appreciated and useful. The table carts i made do a good job but i should have put threaded rod into the table top where the mounting holes on the bottom of the marquee are. This way i could raise,lower, level and tilt the PJ's to the exact place i need them. I think i will do this this week sometime. It will also help to keep them secure and not move.

Even though i am far off from watchable blend I can see why its so desirable, You can get the image so much sharper using a slightly less lower resolution than with a single or a stack(tried this too earlier). And this is with out any Schiemflug or work on the CPC magnets !! I first tried 1152x800 and was having a hard time with the top 2-3 inches of the grid being squiggly/wavy( need to alter timings but got frustrated and moved on). So i decided to try the perfect 1.33 aspect using 800 as the horizontal, that came out to 1064x800 for each PJ. Once i set up and converged this res at 72 Hz on each I began to move the PJ's into as close to where i thought they should be for a 10% blend zone. this is where I think I need to get some one's help that has blended. I couldn't get the Images to over lap at first with out moving one of the images over and losing its left or right most position on the edge of the screen. I finally was able to somewhat get enough overlap to get a fair matched blend zone. I do need to learn how to move the PJ's with relation to the screen, I think i am trying to hard to max out the raster and should just try to match the aspect on the screen. Practice here will make perfect.

The C2-2250 is a very cool VP, even if not for Blending. the resolution editor is great and allows you to see before hand what the Pixel clock will be. also load ing the res into the VP is fast and making changes this way is not as cumbersome as I originally envisioned it to be. And those high refresh rate possibilities from the DVI out is way cool.
Before i tried the blend earlier this week i set them up in a side by side stack after i was failing miserably with the blend.
A stack is much easier and the ultras added Geometry is awesome compared tot he standard Marquee's.
I ran 1080p@72 out and it did look super nice, and geometry was spot on. I was going to take a screen shot and in my haste i tripped over the power cord moved the PJ and Effed up the whole set up Sad So i did nothing till today and did the half ass blend. The C2-2250 has all the controls you need to manipulate the image and I found out what i needed to get a closer blend, it was almost aligned to a watchable alignment but i was off on the over lap area so anything moving through the "seam" looked like it was going through a heat wave off hot asphalt( get the visual?)

The most important thing is color calibration for sure!!! I just did both by eye and if you do not have them both exactly the same i cant see how you can blend. This is where i stopped for now as i had to go to work. But this is going to be a fun project, and i am sure i will be able to get it perfect once i keep at it and learn more about the VP and the longbows.

I definitely should invite Craig Rounds to stay at my place on his way home form the calibration tour... maybe i can convince him this is a good learning experience Wink

Athanasios

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Kiev Savoie



Joined: 25 Oct 2007
Posts: 432


Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 3:53 pm    Post subject:

Just curious, this guy Craig Rounds is on a tour Calibrating systems? Does he have a web page? I would like to know more.

Congrats on getting your blend started. It sounds like fun even if it is a bit daunting (new projects always are though right?)
I can't wait to see some pics once you have it close to finished.
good luck
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 6:30 pm    Post subject:

Kiev Savoie wrote:
Just curious, this guy Craig Rounds is on a tour Calibrating systems? Does he have a web page? I would like to know more.

Congrats on getting your blend started. It sounds like fun even if it is a bit daunting (new projects always are though right?)
I can't wait to see some pics once you have it close to finished.
good luck


Sure, here is his web page.... http://www.cir-engineering.com/


Athanasios

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Gino



Joined: 22 Apr 2006
Posts: 1363
Location: Trinity Beach, AUSTRALIA

Posted: Tue May 26, 2009 2:18 am    Post subject:

tse wrote:
It is not the lines that you need to change. It is the pixels. Standard 1080p has, of course, 1920 displayed pixels. Total pixels are 2200. That leaves a short (1.9us) 280 pixels for horizontal blanking/retrace. Try increasing the total pixels to 2400. That will give 480 pixels for h blanking/retrace. Use half for back porch, 240. 150 for sync and 90 for front porch. The long retrace might allow all the active pixels to fit, if not there should be plenty of raster left over letting you phase the active area out of the jail bars with short retrace.

Vertical data should be something like 1080 displayed lines, blanking lines = 55. Total lines = 1135. As always use half the blanking time for back porch or 28 lines. Generally you want the sync to be bigger than the front porch so 14 lines for sync and 13 lines for front porch. These porportions are alot more important for horizontal than for vertical.

Scott

Is there any good resources for the theory behind all these timings and porches? eg. sync should be bigger than front porch, back porch should be bigger than front porch etc...

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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Tue May 26, 2009 6:14 am    Post subject:

Gino wrote:
tse wrote:
It is not the lines that you need to change. It is the pixels. Standard 1080p has, of course, 1920 displayed pixels. Total pixels are 2200. That leaves a short (1.9us) 280 pixels for horizontal blanking/retrace. Try increasing the total pixels to 2400. That will give 480 pixels for h blanking/retrace. Use half for back porch, 240. 150 for sync and 90 for front porch. The long retrace might allow all the active pixels to fit, if not there should be plenty of raster left over letting you phase the active area out of the jail bars with short retrace.

Vertical data should be something like 1080 displayed lines, blanking lines = 55. Total lines = 1135. As always use half the blanking time for back porch or 28 lines. Generally you want the sync to be bigger than the front porch so 14 lines for sync and 13 lines for front porch. These porportions are alot more important for horizontal than for vertical.

Scott

Is there any good resources for the theory behind all these timings and porches? eg. sync should be bigger than front porch, back porch should be bigger than front porch etc...


Gino here is a good paper on Video in general.. i have not read it in a year but i think it touches on what you want to know.

Building Blocks of Video Format

Athanasios

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Gino



Joined: 22 Apr 2006
Posts: 1363
Location: Trinity Beach, AUSTRALIA

Posted: Thu May 28, 2009 5:40 am    Post subject:

Nashou66 wrote:
Gino here is a good paper on Video in general.. i have not read it in a year but i think it touches on what you want to know.

Thanks for the refresher, but I'm aware of the structure of a video frame, just wasn't aware that as Scott mentioned, certain elements of the blanking region should be a certain size etc...

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tse



Joined: 03 May 2006
Posts: 1014
Location: Sweatbucket, Fl.

Posted: Thu May 28, 2009 2:18 pm    Post subject:

Attached is a worksheet for calculating VESA video timings. It has the formulas used to determine the lines and pixels. VESA is an attempt to standardise timings. Sometimes the answer might need to be tweeked. For instance, the Marquee does not like horizontal sync that is less than 1us in width.

Scott



VideoTimingGenerator.xls
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Download
 Filename:  VideoTimingGenerator.xls
 Filesize:  88.5 KB
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schmoe



Joined: 30 Mar 2008
Posts: 374
Location: Seattle, WA

Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 5:09 am    Post subject:

Interesting spreadsheet. Thanks for sharing.

According to the spreadsheet, the VESA timings for 1080p are quite different than the usual timings I see for devices that output 1080p.

"Typical" 1080p:
H Front: 88
H Sync: 44
H Back: 148
Total Blank: 280

VESA 1080p:
H Front: 128
H Sync: 200
H Back: 328
Total Blank: 656

VESA 1080p - Reduced Blanking:
H Front: 48
H Sync: 32
H Back: 80
Total Blank: 160
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schmoe



Joined: 30 Mar 2008
Posts: 374
Location: Seattle, WA

Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 8:14 am    Post subject:

tse's suggested settings came close but didn't quite work for me. Still have about 4% cut-off on the left side. The sweet spot for me seems to be around 518 blanking pixels. FWIW, I tried the VESA timing and it got the entire picture in as expected (656 blanking pixels!) but the image became squished. I would have had to increase the h-size on the PJ.
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 10:42 am    Post subject:

Yeah you have to play around as it depends on how much raster you have and other things as well. I think my total pixels were like over 2600. You just have to keep playing around with it. The TV-One resolution editor that you use to store the timing and resolutions aslo is the same an figures out pixel clock and so forth.
I like it a bit better because it looks more like a HTPC set up even though I dont use a HTPC. I think I linked it somewhere in this thread.

here is the link: it starts the down load right away....

C2 Resolution Editor

Athanasios

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tse



Joined: 03 May 2006
Posts: 1014
Location: Sweatbucket, Fl.

Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 12:59 pm    Post subject:

The resolution editor looks like it gives the same answers as the spreadsheet except the vertical front porch and back porch lines are reversed. It's very unusual for the front porch to be larger than the back porch.

Scott

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