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Mounting to Engineered beams
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dturco



Joined: 06 Feb 2009
Posts: 3778
Location: Eastern Shore Maryland

TV/Projector: Runco DLP VX-3000i Marquee 9500 parts doner

Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 5:48 am    Post subject:

Man that is a cool room. Somehow many posts back the uni-srtut got forgotten about which is what is going across the 3 joists like your pictures show. That is all that is needed.Also somewhere on this site is a blow by blow uni-strut install I can't remember where but it is very detailed.A projector is a minor load. And as for the engineered I- Beam the wood will give out before the glue that is used does if BIG IF it was manufactured correct. Razz

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MikeEby



Joined: 24 Jun 2007
Posts: 5237
Location: Osceola, Indiana

Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 6:19 am    Post subject:

dturco wrote:
Man that is a cool room. Somehow many posts back the uni-srtut got forgotten about which is what is going across the 3 joists like your pictures show. That is all that is needed.Also somewhere on this site is a blow by blow uni-strut install I can't remember where but it is very detailed.A projector is a minor load. And as for the engineered I- Beam the wood will give out before the glue that is used does if BIG IF it was manufactured correct. Razz


Thanks,

Compared to some of the newer rooms I think my circa 2002 room looks pretty dated with the curtains and all. When the economy comes back I think it will be time for an update with some newer style wall treatments and a 2:40 screen. I'm keeping the seat though. I've had all 12 full at times.

Mike

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Heywood Jablome



Joined: 12 Mar 2006
Posts: 1548


Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 12:47 pm    Post subject:

Bruce 09 wrote:
jkruger wrote:
Anything you do to the bottom runner will reduce it's strength. How much? Maybe not enough to cause a problem, but the method in Heywood's diagram looks like the best way to me.




Technically Heywood's method compromises the joist the most by adding lateral load to the web .Wink

The plywood gusset is the ONLY way that is accepted in an I joist repair , some will require web filling first . The gusset Will add so much "strength" to the joist is it not funny .

I have repaired Joists that had either the full top or bottom Flange damaged or simply completely cut out . For the simply load requirements and mounting bracket used every fix here will work . The center span of the joist is also the least critical for structural compromise.



Bruce




That's torsional, not lateral, Razz Razz Razz and is something I completely overlooked! Wink
Bruce is right... torsion in these engineered timbers is itself Something To Be Avoided. Doubling the all-thread in the downward direction (with a second thread hanger) will prevent twisting the beams.
Combining any of these methods will stiffen the floor AND make hanging safe.

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"Those countries which lag behind in industry, in the application of mechanics and technical chemistry, in the careful selection and utilization of natural products, where the respect for such activities does not permeate all classes of society, will unfailingly decline in prosperity. They will sink faster when neighbor states, with an energetic exchange between science and industry, go forward with renewed vitality."
-- Baron Alexander von Humboldt: 1769-1859
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stefuel



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3353
Location: Green Harbor MA USA

Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 10:25 am    Post subject:

Heywood Jablome wrote:
Bruce 09 wrote:
jkruger wrote:
Anything you do to the bottom runner will reduce it's strength. How much? Maybe not enough to cause a problem, but the method in Heywood's diagram looks like the best way to me.




Technically Heywood's method compromises the joist the most by adding lateral load to the web .Wink

The plywood gusset is the ONLY way that is accepted in an I joist repair , some will require web filling first . The gusset Will add so much "strength" to the joist is it not funny .

I have repaired Joists that had either the full top or bottom Flange damaged or simply completely cut out . For the simply load requirements and mounting bracket used every fix here will work . The center span of the joist is also the least critical for structural compromise.



Bruce




That's torsional, not lateral, Razz Razz Razz and is something I completely overlooked! Wink
Bruce is right... torsion in these engineered timbers is itself Something To Be Avoided. Doubling the all-thread in the downward direction (with a second thread hanger) will prevent twisting the beams.
Combining any of these methods will stiffen the floor AND make hanging safe.


This is the best application for the way I hang projectors and the way we hung Heywoods 9500LC. Glue and screw baby, glue and screw. 24 hours later, you can hang a car from it. I think Heywood has pictures.

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Chip
A Barco is only a AmPro with training wheels

Card carrying member of the AVS chain gang.
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aenglish



Joined: 21 Jan 2009
Posts: 78


TV/Projector: Barco BG808s (2002 build)

Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 6:37 pm    Post subject:

Heywood, pictures would be great if you have them.

I plan on hanging this beast this weekend while my wife is out of town and hopefully can convince her witht the WOW factor watching one of her favorite movies when she gets back.

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Heywood Jablome



Joined: 12 Mar 2006
Posts: 1548


Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 12:23 pm    Post subject:

Okie dokie... This is Chip's mounting method. HOWEVER I still recommend picking up the center of an engineered timber rather than the bottom... that bottom rail is intended to be in tension longitudinally, not in pure shear straight down.

You can see the cable arrangement for the lift, and 2x4 sister joist which was used to allow the sheet-rock strapping and plywood to both have a full joists' width for fastening. (If the rock were cantilevered it would have never held a tape line.)
The plywood is 3/4" AC with no voids, and the sheet-rock is held off the joists 3/4" with strapping, making the plywood flush with the BACK of the sheet-rock. Those two sawzall slits at the top of the last pic were to remove several inches of strapping so the sheet-rock on that side is fastened to the plywood.
Screen alignment of the low-profile unistrut rails was accomplished with a laser level prior to fastening with a few dozen 3" sheet-rock screws. With the help of Chip and a single screw near the centroid of the plywood plate, this was actually pretty easy AND dead-balls perpendicular to my screen wall.
Finish (not shown) was accomplished by fastening new 1/2" sheet-rock over the plywood plate, taping and mudding conventionally, and then mimicking the plaster texture (boy howdie was THAT a learning curve for me!)
The low-profile 'strut rails are about 1/8" taller than the finished ceiling, 1/4" or so from smooth sheet-rock. Standing just barely proud of the finish lets the top mount slide back and forth and does not draw the eye (well, any more than a 200+lb projector hanging from the ceiling!)


Before anybody asks, the odd dogleg cutout in the ceiling (top-right corner of the last pic) is the location of the ceiling duplex outlet for the NEC 9PG mains input. This was moved for the Marquee 9500 to the front, also not yet complete in these pics.
FYI for anyone doing this: You can find good quality 14 or even 12 gauge IEC mains power cords as short as 12" online and at specialty electronics hobby stores.... I've got three more of them in my equipment rack making the short run to a full-height power strip adjacent to the rack. Clean, no bundles wire tied and hanging out everywhere, and they look better (IMO) than the old 'cut-it-short and replace the cord cap' act.



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_________________
"Those countries which lag behind in industry, in the application of mechanics and technical chemistry, in the careful selection and utilization of natural products, where the respect for such activities does not permeate all classes of society, will unfailingly decline in prosperity. They will sink faster when neighbor states, with an energetic exchange between science and industry, go forward with renewed vitality."
-- Baron Alexander von Humboldt: 1769-1859
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