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1209s LC Hardware Swap
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Gary M.
Guest






Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 9:02 pm    Post subject: 1209s LC Hardware Swap

anyone have any advice on this?

is it very difficult? haven't seen any tutorials or etc. for this

nothing is beyond me doing it but I was just wondering what I would be getting myself into with this project

thanks

-Gary
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MikeEby



Joined: 24 Jun 2007
Posts: 5237
Location: Osceola, Indiana

Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 9:09 pm    Post subject:

Gary,
Did you see JohnsHWman G90 tube replacement guide, I don't know how close it is to a Barco.

http://www.curtpalme.com/Sony_G90_tube_replacement2.shtm


Mike

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jkruger



Joined: 24 Oct 2007
Posts: 2435
Location: Carlsbad, CA

Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 9:19 pm    Post subject:

Gary, I thought you already tore that set all apart. Did you sell the tubes too?
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Gary M.
Guest






Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 9:41 pm    Post subject:

J, I am about a fleas ass from getting her up and running, just lack the green tube and this swap/install

Mike, I just looked at that G90 swap guide last night, it looks easy as pie, don't know if that relates to the Barco or not

-Gary
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jkruger



Joined: 24 Oct 2007
Posts: 2435
Location: Carlsbad, CA

Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 9:42 pm    Post subject:

Cool! Can't wait to see the results.
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r.bauer



Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 280
Location: The Netherlands

Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 11:05 pm    Post subject:

Barco's are only glued around the edge of the tube and not the front like marquees. Just cut through the silicone and remove the tube. You will see that the tube rests on 4 clear plastic tabs that hold the tube at the proper distance from the c-element. Don't loose them!

Swapping a tube is not that hard. Oh, and make some pictures and put them up here.

Glue them back in place using standard black silicone caulking, like the one used for bathrooms. I always use the one that is the purest, ie that has the least additives. They can be found easily because they are the cheapest of them all at your local DIY store. So no additives for quick drying or increased temperature.
Do take the time to let the tube dry because it only dries at a rate of 1 or 2 mm/24hrs, so wait at least a week, or more, before putting the glycol back in.

When you have cleared the housing properly of the old silicone, clean and degrease the housing that comes into contact with the new silicone and clean the new tube using something like 97% alcohol or something similar that leaves no residue. probably best to use cotton cloth in stead of cleaning paper, as paper is very dusty.

Use as much silicone as was used on the tube from the factory, just fill the entire gap around the tube with a layer of at least 2-3 cm of silicone.
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Gary M.
Guest






Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 11:08 pm    Post subject:

r.bauer wrote:
Barco's are only glued around the edge of the tube and not the front like marquees. Just cut through the silicone and remove the tube. You will see that the tube rests on 4 clear plastic tabs that hold the tube at the proper distance from the c-element. Don't loose them!

Swapping a tube is not that hard. Oh, and make some pictures and put them up here.

Glue them back in place using standard black silicone caulking, like the one used for bathrooms. I always use the one that is the purest, ie that has the least additives. They can be found easily because they are the cheapest of them all at your local DIY store. So no additives for quick drying or increased temperature.
Do take the time to let the tube dry because it only dries at a rate of 1 or 2 mm/24hrs, so wait at least a week, or more, before putting the glycol back in.

When you have cleared the housing properly of the old silicone, clean and degrease the housing that comes into contact with the new silicone and clean the new tube using something like 97% alcohol or something similar that leaves no residue. probably best to use cotton cloth in stead of cleaning paper, as paper is very dusty.

Use as much silicone as was used on the tube from the factory, just fill the entire gap around the tube with a layer of at least 2-3 cm of silicone.


thanks for the advice, much appreciated

is the HV lead the same as the G90 install that Mike linked to?

-Gary
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r.bauer



Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 280
Location: The Netherlands

Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 11:19 pm    Post subject:

Gary M. wrote:
thanks for the advice, much appreciated

is the HV lead the same as the G90 install that Mike linked to?

-Gary

If your new tube came whithout the HV lead, the swap will be the same as described in the G90 pages. About the only thing that is similar in a tube swap on a 1209s Mr. Green

Also clean the EHT cap and the area around the connector on the tube real good with something like alcohol, or 'spiritus'.
When applying the silicone for the EHT cap, I apply it only on the glass and I aim for a result where no silicone comes in contact with the actual connector itself, both on the cap and the tube. If that happens drying time for the tube increases 4 times or more. Drying time is also long, taking the 1-2mm a day guide into account. But you should be fine as the G90 pages describe this procedure very clearly.

If the cap starts sparking you have to start all-over again.
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incova



Joined: 27 Nov 2006
Posts: 789
Location: london

Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 4:00 am    Post subject: do a search for in this forum

do a search for in this forum

How to remove a LC chamber ?

I had to take out my ampro 4600 lc chamber I doubt its that much different, leave the silicone for at least 10 days to cure I reckon and pile a lot on! Lots of useful advice in that thread, good luck!

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the less I know.
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Gary M.
Guest






Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 5:50 am    Post subject:

I am having a hell of a time trying to get the tube out of the housing, it is so flush against one of the 4 sides that I can't cut the silicone bond, no amount of prying will get her out

any advice?

the HV lead was covered on the inside with silicone, all the way down into the HV pocket on the tube and all over the connector on the lead, it was a PITA to get off Sad

thanks for the help

-Gary
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NewbieDAN



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 319
Location: Bunbury Western Australia

Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 6:25 am    Post subject:

Standard mineral turps will soften the silicon if you let it sit in turps bath. Then scrapie-scrapie with a blade.
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km987654



Joined: 25 Jul 2007
Posts: 2874
Location: Australia

TV/Projector: Barco BG809s

Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 7:18 am    Post subject:

Not an easy job. Barco mounted the face of the tubes right up against the housing leaving no room to get a blade in. I am not aware of any easy solution. Curt says he does this by working a blade between the tube and the housing. I am not sure how he manages this though. I am sure that you need to be very carefull because the only tubes I have managed to get out of Barco housings have broken. (fortunately they were no good anyway).
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Gary M.
Guest






Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 8:27 am    Post subject:

finally got it, thanks for the advice

I managed to chip a few small pieces out of the top rim, won't be a problem after sealing up but it doesn't look the best

I managed to slip a thin pocket knife all around and pried back and forth along every inch or two, then stuck one corner of the housing under my very heavy work bench and just lifted the tube right out

tube came out with a little scratching on the surface way back in the corners

just got done completely removing the silicone from inside the housing, it is now ready for a new P19lug Green, anyone wants to make me any offers feel free to do so Mr. Green

what a job!! Sad

-Gary
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r.bauer



Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 280
Location: The Netherlands

Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 9:34 am    Post subject:

Great to hear you got it done!

Did you take any pictures? I forgot when I swapped a tube.
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Gary M.
Guest






Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 11:04 am    Post subject:

I will take some pics for you guys Wink

-Gary
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secstate



Joined: 20 Mar 2006
Posts: 720


Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 1:35 pm    Post subject:

Well I will be watching. I have swapped 180DVBs to P16LNQs but I have not done any 9" tubes so far. However I picked up two Runco 1100s over the weekend so a 9" retubing may be in my future.
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Gary M.
Guest






Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 12:11 am    Post subject:

were are all these Runcos coming from?

-Gary
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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G

Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 1:23 am    Post subject:

HT guys that think d!gital is an upgrade Rolling Eyes Oh well better for us.
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secstate



Joined: 20 Mar 2006
Posts: 720


Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 2:00 am    Post subject:

Gary M. wrote:
were are all these Runcos coming from?

-Gary


Good question they were as rare as hen's teeth until the last six months or so. My two were out of the Marriot headquarters "Boardroom" via a guy's basement in Capital Hill in DC.
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Gary M.
Guest






Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 6:03 am    Post subject:

mine (1101) came down from a theater in southern Cal., it was replaced with Runcos latest greatest DLP

I have counted at least 12 of these things for sale in the past 3 or 4 months, oh well all that means is 1209s goodness for us Wink

-Gary
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