CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

oddgenetix · Joined: 29 Jan 2009 Posts: 23 Location: Orlando Fl.

so here's the deal.

I bought a sony d50 sans remote, unaware that the machine is crippled without it. I purchased a remote for the 12xx series on ebay, and when I received it, much to my dismay, the pcb was missing the IR diodes, the s-control jack, and even the leads that brought power from the AA batteries.

The strange thing is they were never soldered there to begin with. It has one single connector labeled "CN1" that has four pins. I'm assuming 2 are power, and 2 are signal.

What I need is for someone to let me know how many conductors are on the s control cable, 2, 3, or 4?

Also, if anyone has a service manual for the d50 that'd be awesome, since the install guide doesn't say jack. And if anyone had schematics for the remote that would be incredible. Though I'm not holding my breath on that one.

Also if anyone could enlighten me why a remote would be configured with it's standard outputs missing from the factory. Just to satisfy my curiosity.

Now it's back to the wonderfully soft and scan-line enriched 1020, while I Wait. I've tried to buy 2 nice projectors now, an ecp 3500 (who's memory refused to save convergence when powered down, until the power supplies went bad), and the now defunct sony d50q, which is like a car without keys. I've always fallen back on the 1020, because it doesn't need 100 extra parts to work. supply power and video and BAM, image. No remotes, no cables, no schematics, just a barely visible softly focused image.

I have a Pronto CCF of the d70 remote codes. It's 100% complete, but it won't fire my projector, I'm assuming it's because I'm emulating a pronto on a PDA, and the irDA on PDAs is known for not having the balls to control some devices. So if anyone needs that CCF let me know.

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 12:05 am Post subject:

You bought a 12xx series control panel that was mounted in the top of a projector. The remote is the same but with the batteries IR senders and other stuff.

PM Ray he may have a remote he can sell you for the D50. Those are nice little proejctors. Lemme look up Ray's forum name I can't remember Laughing

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 12:06 am Post subject:

oddgenetix · Joined: 29 Jan 2009 Posts: 23 Location: Orlando Fl.

I'll see if I can grab a remote from rabies_70, otherwise I'm still looking for the number of conductors in the s control cable so my soldering iron can be swift in equipping the remote with a jack for the s-control.

Thanks a ton! I need me some Cathode Ray Glory!

Also, I have an IFB slot, I'm thinking of getting the hdmi card from the front page, any cons to this device, or should I just jump in?

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 12:30 am Post subject:

Surf Moomes forum here: https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=7563.html

See if there are any problems with that card. I don't remember for sure. Mome's cards are great. I have two of them. One DVI/component ( c.2005 ) and a HDMI/component ( c.2007 ) very good quality stuff.

oddgenetix · Joined: 29 Jan 2009 Posts: 23 Location: Orlando Fl.

I poured through the schematics in the 12xx service manual (page 100) and found the pinout for the 4 pin connector on the back of the remote.

as follows:
1: SirCS
2: Ground
3: Sub 5v (figuring I'll run it at 4.5v since that's the voltage of 3 AA's)
4: CONT (not sure what this one is/means, but time and lots of schematics are on my side)

The soldering iron....is warming.

oddgenetix · Joined: 29 Jan 2009 Posts: 23 Location: Orlando Fl.

Update for anyone who cares (I'm already addicted to these forums)

I found the meaning of "cont" on pin 4.

the remote connector on the 12xx is the same as the connectors for the front/back sircs receivers built into the machine, this is apparently a power bus that runs at 5.7 volt for the sircs, but the RC connector (for the chassis remote) is shown not using this pin when looking at the frame schematic diagram (pg# 243 of the service manual for the 1271q). Leaving only the 3 pins, signal, power, and ground.

I plan on soldering a custom cable to a 1/8" TS jack to run into "control in" on the back of my d50, and repairing the internal battery compartment (on the remote) to house power. That is unless I can find the service manual for the d50, so I could find an active 5v bus to tap in to. The jury is also out on whether the internal control voltage for the CN1 connector is the same as the signal voltage sent through the S control. But again, schematics+time=answers.

The soldering iron is hot (figuratively) however I'm going to resist my hacking urges for a time to see if any forum members may neigh say this plan. And please, if this doesn't seem safe/practical in every way, please for the love of God neigh say with all of your might!

F16wes · Joined: 29 Jan 2009 Posts: 24 Location: Orlando, Florida

Hey Oddgenetix I know this is a little off topic but did you buy this D50 from a guy in Kissimee?

oddgenetix · Joined: 29 Jan 2009 Posts: 23 Location: Orlando Fl.

Yes I did. Why do you ask?

Is it a bomb?

F16wes · Joined: 29 Jan 2009 Posts: 24 Location: Orlando, Florida

No its not a bomb you just beat me to it.

oddgenetix · Joined: 29 Jan 2009 Posts: 23 Location: Orlando Fl.

Ah, well it's come with it's frustrations for sure. (hence the multiple mentions of a soldering iron)

Sorry for snatching it, we'll see if I can breath life back into it. (we're yet to see the other inevitable problems since it's not "Working")

F16wes · Joined: 29 Jan 2009 Posts: 24 Location: Orlando, Florida

Well good luck with getting it working and if you don't mind could you keep informed on its progress I'm curious to hear how it turns out.

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 5:40 am Post subject:

That's funny! Two new members today, both from the Orlando area, and both looking at the same projector! I think that can only happen here. Thumbs Up

oddgenetix · Joined: 29 Jan 2009 Posts: 23 Location: Orlando Fl.

Yes sir, I'll keep you posted.

I've determined now that the reason I couldn't get the Pronto Remote CCF for the d70 to work is because the board for the front SIRCS receiver is bad. Burnt actually. And it was sucking voltage from the control board. I'm suddenly worried about this thing, what could've happened to send enough voltage down a 5.7v line to BURN a board?

Stay tuned.

oddgenetix · Joined: 29 Jan 2009 Posts: 23 Location: Orlando Fl.

F16wes · Joined: 29 Jan 2009 Posts: 24 Location: Orlando, Florida

Yeah well the same projector part is easy to explain. There are virtually NO crt projectors in florida worth buying at least not on fleabay and craigslist.

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 5:58 am Post subject:

You do realize Ampro and Marquee are made there in Cape Canaveral

oddgenetix · Joined: 29 Jan 2009 Posts: 23 Location: Orlando Fl.

I did not. Perhaps an impromptu tour is in order. haha.

I scored my 1020q down here, I rescued it from a skating rink where it had put in almost 20 years of service playing videos at kids birthday parties. Paid 30 bones for it. Popped a new blue tube in, and it's still rocking. The image out of those things may not be that great (at all) but holy crap in a pita, you could drive a nail with that projector and it would still work.

I will say I'll miss the analog convergence. What it lacks in precision it makes up in speed. The 1020 is my "mobile" projector (because I can carry it by myself haha) I can have that thing set up, focused, converged, and off the line in no time.

mike calcott · Joined: 18 May 2006 Posts: 307 Location: Australia

Its a PIA but you can setup the projector without the remote using the control panel on the projector. Once setup you will only be using the remote to turn it on and off

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 6:27 am Post subject:

Hey the D50 was my portable projector. I can carry it by myself