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radar
Joined: 05 Dec 2007 Posts: 72 Location: Sydney, Australia
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| Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 11:21 pm Post subject: Benchmark for focus sharpness |
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Often we choose projectors based on a few factors, one of which is sharpness. We are told that the high end units (9") are much sharper than 7" units. The question is (if you've never seen a 9" unit), how sharp is sharp?
Theoretically, a projector that can handle a 1920x1080 source (say a PC or Blu-ray) should see a 1 pixel line (running from top to bottom) of an approximate width of 1mm on a 7' wide 16:9 screen. Alternately, a projector set up for 1024x768 should see a 1 pixel line of approximately 2mm on a 7' wide screen.
So... if I have a 7" unit or a 8" unit or a 9" unit, how wide would that line be? And could that be used to be a benchmark to compare sharpness of a projector?
Also, if I knew that a stock Marquee 8" projector should throw a 1 pixel line and be around 3mm thick (under the same conditions as above on a 1024x768 setup on a 7' screen), then I could compare my setup to the benchmark and tune accordingly. I would also be able to tell if my tubes are getting weak or not performing.
Is there another way to benchmark sharpeness so we can compare our pj's against them?
Any thoughts if we should add a new pj list with regards to sharpness? If we add a new lense to a pj, what value does this change the sharpness by? If we have a benchmark, perhaps we can say "projector A is 33% sharper than the benchmark". So if we knew that the benchmark was 3mm (1 pixel width on a 1024x768 setup on a 7' screen) then projector A should show a 2mm pixel width under the same conditions. If we do go with this idea, what should the benchmark be (pj, screen size and source)? I'm thinking for screen size - 7' and source should be a PC with 1024x768 (in 4:3) and 1920x1080 (in 16:9)... don't know what would make a good pj benchmark.
Cheers,
Kevin.
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stuffandpuff
Joined: 30 Jul 2008 Posts: 69
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| Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 11:43 pm Post subject: |
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Any digital can be your benchmark. A brand new 7" ES tube with good lenses is probably as sharp as an 8" EM tube. At least this seems to be my experience. Problem is, ES tubes don't stay sharp for very long. I would say the NEC PGs I've owned are as sharp as any CRT projector I've owned or saw. I've never seen a 9" so I don't know how it would compare. I know none of this address your questions but it's all I got.
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Person99
Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 4899 Location: Flower Mound, TX
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| Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 11:43 pm Post subject: |
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It is very difficult to benchmark sharpness. A CRT does not handle 1 on/1 off patterns well due to the transition. So, it is not really an accurate representation of the PJs sharpness, but can be used for relative comparisons (i.e. most 8" machines will not show a 1-on/1-off 1080p vertical bar pattern whereas many 9" machines will. Also, how well a PJ does this is how "white" the white lines are and how "black" the black lines are. No CRT will do them correctly as white and black lines both due to the nature of them and the very low ANSI CR. So, this is difficult to measure to see which PJ is doing it better.
Additionally, set up skill is a significant factor in CRT sharpness. A "sharper" PJ can look less sharp if not as well set up.
Lastly, the condition of the electronics in the PJ as well as tube condition play a role, as noise in the video chain, etc introduce resolution diminishing artifacts.
In the end, we pretty much use our eyeballs. A lot of the people here have seen most of the major PJs in action. Few side by sides in identical new condition, but many general impressions. We pretty much go on that to set up the "rules of thumb".
_________________ Dave
A train station is where the train stops. A bus station is where the bus stops. On my desk, I have a work station....
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Gary M. Guest
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| Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 11:45 pm Post subject: |
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it is tube dependent, PJ dependent(quality of controls over tubes) and setup ability dependent
impossible to benchmark IMHO
-Gary
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Brian Hampton
Joined: 22 Apr 2006 Posts: 1173
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| Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 11:47 pm Post subject: |
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If the scan lines of 1080i remind you too much of "video" so you use 1080p and the image is still sharp... then it's good.
-Brian
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tse
Joined: 03 May 2006 Posts: 1014 Location: Sweatbucket, Fl.
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| Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 12:52 am Post subject: |
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MTF has been a measurement of resolution for many years. A quick explanation:
http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=633597
Keep in mind the lines are "gaussian" in profile. As they are placed closer and closer together they will overlap and the light at the base will add to the light from the next line. What should be a "black" line will be gray. The less black it is means a lower MTF. It's a way to measure resolution.
Another post showing a way to measure MTF with a camera and oscope.
http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=584081
Scott
_________________ "Were we directed from Washington when to sow and when to reap, we would soon want bread."
Thomas Jefferson
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY
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tse
Joined: 03 May 2006 Posts: 1014 Location: Sweatbucket, Fl.
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| Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 3:34 am Post subject: |
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[/quote]
Now that I have a scope I really want to try this, I wonder if it will work with my PAS digital cam in Video mode?
Athanasios[/quote]
You need an analog video signal to connect to the scope. The camera needs to focus close to the screen so not too many lines are displayed.
Scott
_________________ "Were we directed from Washington when to sow and when to reap, we would soon want bread."
Thomas Jefferson
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radar
Joined: 05 Dec 2007 Posts: 72 Location: Sydney, Australia
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| Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 3:56 am Post subject: |
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Person99: Yes, I agree that setup skills is a significant factor. How does a newbie know what to aim for if they don't have a simple benchmark? ie... "I'm aiming for 2mm thick line at 1 pixel wide - easily measureable".... or would the newbie think... "hmmm looks ok" but does not maximise his/her value out of their asset.
TSE: That is a great way to measure resolution! So if I had a scope and found out what the benchmark MTF is for a Marquee 8500 I would be in excellent shape. I used a camcorder on a tripod and a TV to get nice and close to the screen to dial in focus. What did peak my curiosity was the statement "You can increase MTF by overfocussing. This makes the top of the pulse wider but the edges get steeper and the foot of the pulse gets narrower." that one of the guys posted as a response in your referenced thread. I'll have to try this.
Nashou66: I'd be interested in your experiment with your modded 8500 against a stock 8500. That would give some perspective on how your mods improve sharpness.
Rgds,
Kevin.
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 4:11 am Post subject: |
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| radar wrote: | Person99: Yes, I agree that setup skills is a significant factor. How does a newbie know what to aim for if they don't have a simple benchmark? ie... "I'm aiming for 2mm thick line at 1 pixel wide - easily measureable".... or would the newbie think... "hmmm looks ok" but does not maximise his/her value out of their asset.
TSE: That is a great way to measure resolution! So if I had a scope and found out what the benchmark MTF is for a Marquee 8500 I would be in excellent shape. I used a camcorder on a tripod and a TV to get nice and close to the screen to dial in focus. What did peak my curiosity was the statement "You can increase MTF by overfocussing. This makes the top of the pulse wider but the edges get steeper and the foot of the pulse gets narrower." that one of the guys posted as a response in your referenced thread. I'll have to try this.
Nashou66: I'd be interested in your experiment with your modded 8500 against a stock 8500. That would give some perspective on how your mods improve sharpness.
Rgds,
Kevin. |
Most of the mods are just for maintenance to keep the PJ's longevity up, as Caps are the single most cause of failure to electronics. The other parts( newer op amps) I thought Id try to see if there was any change. I must say i do not have the PJ optimally set up because with each change some thing else changes that alters my first set up. Constantly redoing a complete set up after each change was too time consuming. But if I had to go in order, I think now that I am doing the
Barco focus coil mods just to see if it can be done, that the FrankenYokes are the best mod to be done next to the
obvious filament mod for tube protection. Then The HVPS resistor change, neck boards,then the rest, maybe put the CLM after the HVPS.
The over focus thing I do not thing helps sharpness but it plays with the numbers for MTF I bet, to give it a perceived increase on paper but not in actual viewing, I could be totally wrong here.
Athanasios
_________________ Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher
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