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Need soldering advice on how to proceed with a big IC chip
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JustGreg



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3098
Location: Kenosha, WI

Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 7:36 pm    Post subject:

Nashou66 wrote:
Yeah!!! A rework Hot Air station is where its at, I got mine new for 159 dollars IIRC, bought the tweezer Iron too, Now Id like to get that IC suction thing in that one video, that is neat !

Athanasios

I saw that too...that was slick! My wife would KILL me for getting a HARS...only because I'd be pulling sh*t apart that wasn't even broken. Laughing
A little side track here, I downloaded the free ExpressPCB software today to start learning on. It should make a good winter hobby if nothing else. http://www.expresspcb.com/ExpressPCBHtm/Tips.htm
3 boards for $51 for 2 and 4 layer! Unless you print and etch your own, which I'm going to take a shot at.

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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 8:40 pm    Post subject:

The eagle software is better i think. and AP circuits in alberta works great with the Eagle files.

Athanasios

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JustGreg



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3098
Location: Kenosha, WI

Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 9:28 pm    Post subject:

Nashou66 wrote:
The eagle software is better i think. and AP circuits in alberta works great with the Eagle files.

Athanasios

Thanks for the tip...I'll check that out too. One can't have too much to play with one doesn't understand, can one? Wink

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Greg

"Is it ignorance or apathy? Hey, I don't know and I don't care!" --Jimmy Buffett
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CIR Engineering



Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 4269
Location: Chicago USA & Berlin Germany

Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 11:36 pm    Post subject:

JustGreg wrote:
Nashou66 wrote:
The eagle software is better i think. and AP circuits in alberta works great with the Eagle files.

Athanasios

Thanks for the tip...I'll check that out too. One can't have too much to play with one doesn't understand, can one? Wink

LOL Razz

craigr

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lostmandan



Joined: 09 Jul 2008
Posts: 146
Location: Kitchener/Waterloo, Ontario, Canada

Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2008 1:12 am    Post subject:

RVonse wrote:
The closest I could come to piano wire was unwraveling an old coil off an old junk tv chassis I happen to have. It was really thin and somehow made it under the pins.

It worked perfect! The chip is now off and the board still looks in decent shape. Now the challenge is to get the new chip on it but I think I'll probably manage.

Thanks very much Dan, that wire idea worked out perfect!


Hey, no problem! I am glad to hear it worked out, especially first time through.

I wish I had one of the proper rework stations - but I just don't do enough to justify it. Maybe someday Smile Until then, I'll use my shoestring budget Wink
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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G

Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2008 5:52 am    Post subject:

lostmandan wrote:
RVonse wrote:
The closest I could come to piano wire was unwraveling an old coil off an old junk tv chassis I happen to have. It was really thin and somehow made it under the pins.

It worked perfect! The chip is now off and the board still looks in decent shape. Now the challenge is to get the new chip on it but I think I'll probably manage.

Thanks very much Dan, that wire idea worked out perfect!


Hey, no problem! I am glad to hear it worked out, especially first time through.

I wish I had one of the proper rework stations - but I just don't do enough to justify it. Maybe someday Smile Until then, I'll use my shoestring budget Wink


I don't even have a shoestring budget these days. I've graduated to velcro.

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tommo2



Joined: 03 Jun 2006
Posts: 226
Location: Ireland

Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 1:58 pm    Post subject:

I'm surprised no-one has mentioned a solder sucker. Simply melt the solder, suck the solder right outta there and move onto the next pin. Keep the soldering iron as hot as hell, it makes it melt quicker, so you can take the heat away quicker.

It's better to apply a huge heat for a very short time, than a more gentle heat for longer. I used a soldering gun once. It was a POS. It took ages to melt the solder. By the time the solder melted, the heat had conducted to the whole board and melted nearly everything.

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CIR Engineering



Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 4269
Location: Chicago USA & Berlin Germany

Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 3:06 pm    Post subject:

tommo2 wrote:
I'm surprised no-one has mentioned a solder sucker. Simply melt the solder, suck the solder right outta there and move onto the next pin. Keep the soldering iron as hot as hell, it makes it melt quicker, so you can take the heat away quicker.

It's better to apply a huge heat for a very short time, than a more gentle heat for longer. I used a soldering gun once. It was a POS. It took ages to melt the solder. By the time the solder melted, the heat had conducted to the whole board and melted nearly everything.

A solder sucker will not work on a SM chip. A solder sucker leaves a little solder behind and this is enough to keep every single leg of the IC attached to the board getting you nowhere unfortunately.

craigr

_________________
JETI 1501-HiRes 2nm Spectroradiometer
JETI 1211 Spectroradiometer
Photo Research PR-650 Spectroradiometer
Klein K10-A Colorimeter
Murideo Fresco SIX-G HDMI 2.x Multimedia Generator
Murideo Fresco SIX-A HDMI 2.x Analyzer
Light Illusion ColourSpace XPT Color Calibration Software
Light Illusion LightSpace XPT Pro Version 10.x Color Calibration Software
OMARDRIS JVC Software Patch to use K10-A and Jeti with JVC OEM AutoCal Software!
Sencore CR7000 CRT Tube Analyzer / Rejuvenater
Authorized Dealer for Lumagen & just about everything worth buying Wink
www.CIR-Engineering.com - craigr@cir-engineering.com
Phone: 865-405-6892
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Tinman



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1326
Location: Carson City Nevada

Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 7:31 pm    Post subject:

I have a complete Metcal system as well as a Hakko hot air system. Still, I cut the pins on the edge of the chips, remove the chip itself, and then wipe the pins away with flux and a little solder. Leaves the board totally clean and perfectly tinned for the new chip. And it's FAST.

I used to replace large VLSI chips at a shop. I was accused of not actually doing the replacement, so I sat my supervisor down next to me and showed him. The cut and remove method works very well. When you then re-flow the new chip and clean up the flux, it's hard to tell it was replaced.

Marc

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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 2:40 am    Post subject:

Bumping this old thread to the top. I am about to make the plunge into SMT stuff. Time to be able to solder and desolder SMT stuff. I do have a desoldering station, I will post a pix this weekend of it. It's one I bought from Australia about 5 years ago, but never got around to getting the 220 volt stepup transformer for it. I'm about to do that, and wanted to see what the latest recommendations were for soldering irons. Anything new hit the market since this thread?
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CasetheCorvetteman



Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia

Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 6:39 am    Post subject:

Curt, if you got it from Australia, you can run it from any two phases, which will be about 220 volts ( we are 230v and 400v here in Australia by the way Wink ). You should have 2 phases coming into your main switchboard, so connnect the active to an active, and the neutral to a different active, earth obviously goes to earth.
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gjaky



Joined: 05 Jun 2010
Posts: 2802
Location: Budapest, Hungary

Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 8:17 am    Post subject:

CasetheCorvetteman wrote:
Curt, if you got it from Australia, you can run it from any two phases, which will be about 220 volts ( we are 230v and 400v here in Australia by the way Wink ). You should have 2 phases coming into your main switchboard, so connnect the active to an active, and the neutral to a different active, earth obviously goes to earth.


it's sqrt(3)*110V= 190V, it still sounds a bit little to me.

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CasetheCorvetteman



Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia

Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 9:51 am    Post subject:

I know the equation, but thanks all the same you raise a good point. Its 120v and 208v are nominal there, however there is also 120v and 240v split phase systems. Having never looked into it id imagine they use a capacitor bank to lift the phase angle to leading in order to give them the split phase supply. ( simular to capacitor start and capacitor run split phase motors )

I shouldve been more specific about what i meant. Maybe someone else will know exactly how they do it for their larger appliances.

The way we do it here when we hook up some US items ( comercial grade cooking equipment is one reasonably common, the high output charger for an electric car is another ) on our supply is connect L1 to L1 and L2 goes to neutral, which gives 230 volts ( nominal ). If the device has an electric motor, it wont work properly here anyway due to the frequency being 50Hz and not 60Hz, so the motor will spin slower here even though youre feeding it a higher voltage. ( 120xF / no. poles= syncronous speed )
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macgyver655



Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508


Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 2:47 pm    Post subject:

Curt Palme wrote:
wanted to see what the latest recommendations were for soldering irons. Anything new hit the market since this thread?


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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 3:46 pm    Post subject:

CasetheCorvetteman wrote:
Curt, if you got it from Australia, you can run it from any two phases, which will be about 220 volts ( we are 230v and 400v here in Australia by the way Wink ). You should have 2 phases coming into your main switchboard, so connnect the active to an active, and the neutral to a different active, earth obviously goes to earth.


Ya, totally illegal wiring if I do that. I'd need to run a new 14/3 wire from the panel to the bench, not an easy task. A $100 upconversion transformer is going to be cheaper..
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gjaky



Joined: 05 Jun 2010
Posts: 2802
Location: Budapest, Hungary

Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 6:00 pm    Post subject:

Curt Palme wrote:
CasetheCorvetteman wrote:
Curt, if you got it from Australia, you can run it from any two phases, which will be about 220 volts ( we are 230v and 400v here in Australia by the way Wink ). You should have 2 phases coming into your main switchboard, so connnect the active to an active, and the neutral to a different active, earth obviously goes to earth.


Ya, totally illegal wiring if I do that. I'd need to run a new 14/3 wire from the panel to the bench, not an easy task. A $100 upconversion transformer is going to be cheaper..


Get some spare transformer from a matching rated-power amplifier which has switchable primary windings and use it as autotransformer

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CasetheCorvetteman



Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 6326
Location: Australia

Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 2:38 am    Post subject:

Curt Palme wrote:
CasetheCorvetteman wrote:
Curt, if you got it from Australia, you can run it from any two phases, which will be about 220 volts ( we are 230v and 400v here in Australia by the way Wink ). You should have 2 phases coming into your main switchboard, so connnect the active to an active, and the neutral to a different active, earth obviously goes to earth.


Ya, totally illegal wiring if I do that. I'd need to run a new 14/3 wire from the panel to the bench, not an easy task. A $100 upconversion transformer is going to be cheaper..

Oh so they do have some common sense when it comes to unlicenced electrical wiring in Canada do they? Thank god for that. Laughing
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