CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[HighDefMike]

Hi Curt. Thought you might see this before getting to your email.

But I received the Marquee 8500 I purchased a couple of weeks ago yesterday (08/19/2008), and the picture looks fabulous!!

I was surprised the shipping company only shipped it with bubblewrap, in a cardboard box, strapped to a pallet.
And as you know, I never got the tracking info from them...just the call the day before...for delivery the next day between 12-4PM.....the day Tropical Storm Fay was supposed to arrive here in Central Florida.

The box didn't appear to have gotten wet (we got not a drop of rain here where I live at least), but the box was slightly damaged along one vertical edge/seam (separated) of the package; so I'm wondering if something got jarred during shipment. I DID make a note of this on the shipping receipt btw.

But the projector powers up fine, no error leds lit,...just the green one on the back... but after approx. 25 mins.....I just timed the latest instance... the projector shuts down. I can easily power it up (or it will automatically power up with the Auto-Power-UP set ON), and everything is fine for another good 25 mins (at least).

What does this sound like to you, and what can I do to get it corrected? I'm hoping it's something that doesn't require too much effort. I've sent this same post to you via email as well.

Thanks Curt.

[JustGreg]

I'm not Curt (he has waaaay more money than I) but the first thing anyone should do after receiving a pj that's been shipped is to open it up and make sure everything is intact. Remove the lens cover panel and loosen the two screws at the top cover. Slide the cover to the rear of the pj and remove it.

Reseat the two cards in the metal cages (HDM and Focus board), remove the front panel and remove the screws for the two power supplies and pull them out and reseat them with authority, remove the metal cover on each tube neck and make sure the neckboards are firmly seated. They still wiggle freely even when seated all the way in case you're new to this.
It wouldn't hurt to reseat the CLM and VIM too.
What do you have G2's set at? What is Contrast and Brightness set at?

Don't forget to check the heater voltage at the P14 connector. It should be ~6.35v.

Your delivery sounds like the way I received an 8500 once. On just a homemade pallet...more cross sticks than anything, with some token bubble wrap thrown on top, and a cardboard box over the top banding the whole mess together. It didn't work at all. Especially with forklift stabs in the sides.

And now I bow out for the pro's to come in.

[Curt Palme]

This set came from me..

I box up sets with large triwall type boxes for a good reason: I've had more projectors get smashed in transit in heavy wooden crates than any other packing method. SHippers treat the crates as being bulletproof, and kick and drag them around. When sets are shipped in bubble wrap, and covered in a cardboard box, the truckers know that any rough handling will be shown by a damaged cardboard box, and then they get the crap kicked out of them.. As long as there's no damage to the box, the set "should" be OK. Famous last words.

The set ran for 24 hours before sending it. I've covered the troubleshooting process in the email I sent, but Greg more or less has the right approach. I'm guessing a wire got pinched somewhere, I've had that happen before. Push and pull gently on the wiring/chassis, and push down on the tube housings. I've had an IR sensor wire get pinched under the red tube, apparently a factory fault... that worked fine, and remained undetected... until I got the set and did a red tube toe in. That then sheared off and shorted out the IR sensor and killed the set.

I've also had a rear ribbon cable get pinched, causing an intermittent shutdown.

Of course it could be a CLM or power supply issue, but I doubt it.

Cheers!

[Curt Palme]

This set came from me..

I box up sets with large triwall type boxes for a good reason: I've had more projectors get smashed in transit in heavy wooden crates than any other packing method. SHippers treat the crates as being bulletproof, and kick and drag them around. When sets are shipped in bubble wrap, and covered in a cardboard box, the truckers know that any rough handling will be shown by a damaged cardboard box, and then they get the crap kicked out of them.. As long as there's no damage to the box, the set "should" be OK. Famous last words.

The set ran for 24 hours before sending it. I've covered the troubleshooting process in the email I sent, but Greg more or less has the right approach. I'm guessing a wire got pinched somewhere, I've had that happen before. Push and pull gently on the wiring/chassis, and push down on the tube housings. I've had an IR sensor wire get pinched under the red tube, apparently a factory fault... that worked fine, and remained undetected... until I got the set and did a red tube toe in. That then sheared off and shorted out the IR sensor and killed the set.

I've also had a rear ribbon cable get pinched, causing an intermittent shutdown.

Of course it could be a CLM or power supply issue, but I doubt it.

Cheers!

[HighDefMike]

Thanks guys....I'll try some of these...I'm sort of new to this....I have an ECP 4000 that I've replaced a voltage splitter on, but that's the extent of my experience.

Gotta head to work first though....

[HighDefMike]

OK.....I did a few things....and it's ON now...but I have to let it warm-up, and then see if it does it again.

What I did, by looking at the excellent "Electrohome Marquee Teardown" notes an images was...reseat the two cards (HDM and Focus boards), pulled out and reseated the LVPS (couldn't do the HVPS...my screwdriver didn't fit the two screws ), & reseated the CLM.

Tried to remove & reseat the VIM, but it didn't want to come loose easily, so I thought it best to leave it alone.

But I have a few stupid questions..... so humor me....

A fan is always ON on the LVPS, even when the projector is not POWERED ON, but plugged into an A/C outlet. That's normal, right?

Curt, I didn't get a POWER cord with the unit; must've been accidentally left out. So I substituted one from an extra Xbox 360 I have here. Do you suppose that might have something to do with it? Although the 360 power cord is robust, compared to most home electronics at least, and seems to fit snugly....I was just wondering if THAT might be contributing...limiting current or something? I can always go by Home Depot, and see if I can find something more heavy duty that fits.

After performing all the above steps, I plugged the unit into the AC, and when I initially tried to POWER IT UP using the remote, nothing happened. (PANIC sets in). I look at the back of the CLM and notice a red led on for LVPS. CRAP! Knew I shouldn't have touched anything! So I unplug it, unscrew the front panel, and remove and reseat the LVPS a second time; even though it felt pretty snug and well-seated the first time to me.

Plugged the unit in, tried to POWER UP again, same results! Red led for LVPS (Now I'm really upset at myself...life and all.)
I start looking for Curt's number (it's only 9:30PM I thought, SURELY he sits by his phone waiting for idiots to call!)...and WHILE I was doing that, I hear the unit SWITCH ON! .

So, disregarding the FACT I have NO CLUE what I'm doing , do you think the LVPS could be suspect...not making good contact or something?

I'll let you know if it shuts off. I don't need any more drama tonight though.

[Nashou66]

Clean all the contacts of the boards but i am sure Curt did that before he sold it. And that cord might not be able to have enough draw i think the LVPS says right on front 5 amps, thats quite a bit more that the x box uses, feel the cord after its running for a bit if its hat then i would get another thicker cord for it, the right connector type too!!

Dirty CLM chips also cause weird problems, and the vim should pull out if you unscrew the two plates, did you unscre the one right next to the 5 bnc conectors? that hols the vim in too you need to remove the two out side screws the one to the right of the audio jacs and the one on the empty plate on the far left next to the 5 bnc's.

Athanasios

[Curt Palme]

Shoot me an email Mike. I might just send you a bunch of boards for the heck of it, I've got lots of Marquees here. The LVPS error light could indicate a short somewhere in the set, or it could be the LVPS itself. It won't be:

HVPS or the tubes. That's for sure..

[Curt Palme]

Shoot me an email Mike. I might just send you a bunch of boards for the heck of it, I've got lots of Marquees here. The LVPS error light could indicate a short somewhere in the set, or it could be the LVPS itself. It won't be:

HVPS or the tubes. That's for sure..

[HighDefMike]

OK...it finally shut off after over an hour , and the red LED was on for the LVPS. But after some seconds (seemed like 30 or so), the unit powered itself back up...and it's been going since (43 mins. and counting). I didn't even think to check the LEDs when it shut down before...but it usually powered itself back up before i could have gotten to the unit anyway....about 10 seconds tops.

Maybe it's simply the LVPS?

I gotta hit the sack, but yeah Curt, maybe a LVPS would do it?

BTW, the AC cord isn't warm at all, but it probably wouldn't hurt for me to get something heavier...that would fit of course.

[Curt Palme]

For S&G, check the fans on the side of the power supply, and the three belly fans. If you pull the focus and H boards, you can see the edges of all three fan blades through the hole in the chassis. You can run the set without those boards installed. You won't get a pix, but you'll see the fan blades spinning.

[Curt Palme]

For S&G, check the fans on the side of the power supply, and the three belly fans. If you pull the focus and H boards, you can see the edges of all three fan blades through the hole in the chassis. You can run the set without those boards installed. You won't get a pix, but you'll see the fan blades spinning.

[JustGreg]

FYI, the VIM WON'T just slide out like the CLM (to the left of it.) There are 3 mini coax cables plugged into the top of the board. They loop back on themselves when the board is carefully slid in and out. They feed the individual colors to the neck boards. Just use a non metallic (plastic) guide to keep them from snagging on the board components when sliding the board in and out.

As always I defer to the pro's but I'm thinking on the same lines as Curt...it's heat related. Something either isn't getting cooled properly, or a component chose now to fall out of spec and intermittently faults when it warms up, or as Athanasios said, the chips on the CLM and VIM are creeping out after the set warms up, just enough to cause a shutdown. It could literally be any one of a couple thousand solder joints too. The beauty of the 'Quee's are/is everything is modular tho so replacing most everything can be done in a few minutes.

I seem to remember either Tim or tse (Scott) saying a year or so ago to check the IR remote connector at the back plane (Curt just said it also) as a loose connection there caused almost the same issues as you're experiencing.

Just tossing out some ideas. Hopefully it's just a matter of getting everything reseated.

[PaulB]

Hi Mike,
Welcolme to the Forums!

[tse]

This really doesn't help alot but the red LVPS led comes on if the CLM sends the turn on signal to the LVPS and the main section of the LVPS doesn't turn on. So the CLM is trying. Sometimes the LVPS connector can be fussy about how the LVPS is plugged in. Try reseating the LVPS again pushing firmly at the bottom of the box, don't expect the screws to pull the box in, they won't.

Scott

[Tim in Phoenix]

Hello


I suspect shipping damage. Try removing the gray metal panel in front, it is held by four phillips screws. See if both power supplies are fully seated, or does one have bent sheet metal at the "handle" and might not be fully seated into the connector in back.


.

[HighDefMike]

Hi Curt & all.

Would you believe it hasn't shut off (of its own I mean) since my last post a few days back?!!

Not that I'm complaining mind you. I didn't turn it on yesterday, but I'm gonna let it warm up now and check it out.

But here's another observation...not that it just occurred.....it's been that way since I got it. But I thought I'd make sure the unit would stay ON before mentioning it

There's like a 2-inch high (vertical) light band that extends across the entire width of the picture at mid-screen. It's mainly noticeable during extreme bright scenes (or a white screen); perceptible, but barely during normal, color scenes.

Does this sound familiar, or completely alien? I might be able to get a picture of it (with a still, white or bright scene); but my digital camera isn't that great.

[Nashou66]

[HighDefMike]

[Curt Palme]

Yep, that is banding. Good to hear about the set, I'll hold off on doing anything unless I hear from you.

[Curt Palme]

Yep, that is banding. Good to hear about the set, I'll hold off on doing anything unless I hear from you.

[Nashou66]

Yepp banding like curt said, i would do a complete re initialization of the set and start over, when you do it look at each grid to see of its level to the horizon before you do any geometry. if its not, you need to straighten it either by the focus coil but usually its the scan yoke that needs to be ubglued from the bell housing and straightend, this must be done while its on and those scan yoke wires are exposed. so be carfull, look on tims site for that procedure too.

http://www.etechvideo.com/techtip9.htm

Athanasios

[HighDefMike]

[HighDefMike]