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dkap
Joined: 14 Aug 2008
Posts: 109
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| Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 9:36 pm Post subject: |
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Well, I finally disconnected enough cables to be able to take a picture. See attached. I rotated it to match the layout here:
http://curtpalme.com/Barco701_Layout1.shtm
However, I'm still unable to fully remove the tray due to that thick red wire that comes from what is labeled as the HV quadrupler area. It runs through the grommet in the middle of the unit and does not look like it would be possible to pull through, so I'm assuming it has to be removed somehow from the tray. It isn't immediately obvious how tricky that will be.
I've got the built-in line doubler, but not a quadrupler. Do they both go in that spot, or am I misunderstanding something?
The gray IRIS cable does not pull through, either, as it is zip tied to other stuff along its length. It appears I can disconnect it from the back of the IRIS, though.
That green wire with the orange crimp connector in the upper right corner is a real pain to remove...
I'm half thinking it would be better to take it down from the ceiling at this point and test stuff at floor level, which might eliminate the need to remove everything else. It already looks tough enough to remember where all those yellow cables will have to plug back in. There were 7+ of them that had to be disconnected in order to pull the tray out, but I don't think any were the same size.
Dan
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dkap
Joined: 14 Aug 2008
Posts: 109
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 3:21 pm Post subject: |
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[bump]
Is my guess correct about the quadrupler/doubler and the safety in removing it?
Dan
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Tom.W
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6635
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 3:49 pm Post subject: |
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Can you get to any of the main and standby power fuses now without going any further ?
Are you asking is it safe to pull the HV lead from the splitter ? Should be OK as the projector has been off for quite awhile.
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dkap
Joined: 14 Aug 2008
Posts: 109
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 6:11 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah, I think I can get to all of the fuses without any further disconnecting. I can definitely get at the Main AC fuses and can just reach the Standby Supply fuse.
When it comes to measuring continuity, I never know if I'm hooking up to the right thing... There are some very good suggestions here, but they still leave me guessing at what to do.  Do I need to remove the fuses and measure them tip to tip, or something before and after them, or...? Electricity has always been a mystery to me.
Dan
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Tom.W
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6635
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 6:34 pm Post subject: |
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Pull the fuses and check them with an ohmmeter. They should test out at 0 ohms resistance or if they are open infinity.
Yes you test between the metal caps on the end of each fuse.
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dkap
Joined: 14 Aug 2008
Posts: 109
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 7:12 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks, that helps a ton.
Is ~100 ohms (0.5 on the 200 scale) considered zero? Ranging from zero to infinity, I would think that is within an allowable margin of error for a cheap multimeter. That's what both of the Main AC fuses read.
The Main AC fuses are both stamped as 10A / 250V, which I would assume means 10 amp, but when I use the 10 amp setting on the multimeter, I get nothing but a straight "1" reading on all of the ranges. Would that be infinity? (I don't see anything indicating 2 amp and 3 amp like in Curt's write-up.)
The Standby Supply fuse is stamped 125mAL250V, for what that's worth. It's reading 3.7 on the 200 ohm scale.
Dan
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Tom.W
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 7:17 pm Post subject: |
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Short the two leads on the ohmmeter together and consider that point on the scale as 0 ohms or calibrate that reading as 0 ohms on the meter.
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dkap
Joined: 14 Aug 2008
Posts: 109
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 7:25 pm Post subject: |
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Shorting the leads shows the same 0.5, give or take. I guess that means the Main AC fuses are effectively reading zero, so they're not the problem? What about the Standby fuse? That's 3+ after the 0.5 adjustment.
Dan
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Tom.W
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6635
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 7:29 pm Post subject: |
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The standby fuse should read 0 ohms also. Regardless of amperage and the voltage rating of the fuse.
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dkap
Joined: 14 Aug 2008
Posts: 109
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 7:34 pm Post subject: |
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I'm definitely not getting zero there. Is that a faulty reading (like I said, it's a cheap multimeter, but it was at least consistent on the Main AC fuses), or can the fuse be bad with that low of a number?
Dan
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Tom.W
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 7:50 pm Post subject: |
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Dan is that three meg (Million) ohms or 3 ohms ? 0-3 ohms should be OK depending on how good the connection is between the probes and the fuse.
Last edited by Tom.W on Mon Sep 01, 2008 7:55 pm; edited 1 time in total
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dkap
Joined: 14 Aug 2008
Posts: 109
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 7:51 pm Post subject: |
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I assume it's 600 or so, being 3.x on the 200 ohm setting.
Dan
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Tom.W
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
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dkap
Joined: 14 Aug 2008
Posts: 109
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 8:11 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | A good fuse will read 0 ohms (depending on what the meter reads when the leads are held together) and a bad fuse will read the same as holding the leads in the air. |
I'm not sure that illuminates things any as to what a reading in between means... It's not zero, and it's definitely not the same reading as holding the two leads in the air.
Thanks for your patience, by the way.
Dan
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Tom.W
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6635
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 8:22 pm Post subject: |
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Try a new fuse if in question. It's possible to have an intermittent open also but rare. Also can you can check the continuity of the main power resisters on the front end of the power supply without removing them with an ohmmeter but you will have to do a search on what to look for.
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dkap
Joined: 14 Aug 2008
Posts: 109
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| Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 3:16 pm Post subject: |
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I'm thinking the fuse isn't the problem. The Standby Fuse is the one with the questionable reading, but the projector died while powered up, not while in standby. That wouldn't cause the problem, would it?
Also, if I replace just the fuse, I have to go through the process of trying to reconnect all the wiring inside, only to probably determine that it's something else...
Power supply seems more likely. I'll see if I can find what to look for, but if anyone already knows offhand, please post.
Dan
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