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GEBrown
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 729 Location: Denver
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| Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 8:16 pm Post subject: |
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George,
I'm a little confused (again ) Are you adjusting the contrast and brightness with your PJ or with the VP?
I would think you would want to adjust set the brightness and contrast on the VP at neutral and adjust those parameters at the PJ first.
Then tweak later using the VP controls.
Or maybe that's what you said somewhere above.
_________________ Member of the Marquee Maniacs Club
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bubsnews
Joined: 08 Jun 2008 Posts: 15
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| Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 8:52 pm Post subject: |
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| GEBrown wrote: | George,
I'm a little confused (again ) Are you adjusting the contrast and brightness with your PJ or with the VP?
I would think you would want to adjust set the brightness and contrast on the VP at neutral and adjust those parameters at the PJ first.
Then tweak later using the VP controls.
Or maybe that's what you said somewhere above. |
First, I'm not sure what difference it makes adjusting contrast and/or brightness on the pj or the vp? If there is a difference, I'm all ears as to what it could be. As far as what I'm doing, I am adjusting on the vp with pj settings zeroed out. If this is wrong, I am willing to change it (my projector has to be sent back to the factory for an issue so I will be starting from scratch again when it gets back).
I am confused as to how best to set contrast initially before doing calibration. When reading through the guide, it advises to adjust contrast upwards until you get a ftL reading within the range of 12 - 16ftL. Well, when I tried that, anything above contrast +7 resulted in no increase in ftL. That is how I came to select contrast +7 as a starting point. The max ftL reading I could obtain was a bit over 13, with the contrast set at +7.
Afterwards, I did all my other calibrations based on that initial starting point for contrast. This, as pointed out to me by Kal, caused my higher IRE readings to be wrong. His advice was to cut the contrast and recalibrate. I then set contrast to zero and recalibrated based on that contrast setting. I then saw a decrease in shadow detail. So, bottom line, contrast +7 was too high a starting point and contrast zero was too low.
I made a comment that, if the contrast setting is the initial setting that all other settings are based off of during this calibration, perhaps there should be a more definitive way to set contrast initially. It didn't seem right to me to base this entire calibration sequence on an arbitrary starting point. I do see though, that you could pick a contrast setting, calibrate and see what your readings are and then adjust contrast and recalibrate. Seems rather hit or miss in my opinion.
Anyways, if it is true that I should be adjusting contrast and brightness in the pj vs. my vs, then I will go that route next time. My RGB Cut and Gain are in the pj (I haven't been able to find them in my vp yet, if they are even there).
I really appreciate all the information and feedback, thank you all. I watched a SD DVD last night, RED. The contrast and color accuracy was very amazing to my eyes as compared to the way my projector had been set up using the DVE disk as the only source of information. I can highly recommend the colorimeter in the Eye One LT, and adjusting or calibrating your fpj utilizing this additional tool well worth the investment. I think the improvement in calibration very striking. Of course, my wife said she didn't notice a thing but I bet I could hang a sheet over my Da-Lite HCCV material and she wouldn't say a word.
Luck all,
George
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picree
Joined: 31 Mar 2006 Posts: 351 Location: Johnson City, TN
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| Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 1:52 am Post subject: |
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| bubsnews wrote: | | First, I'm not sure what difference it makes adjusting contrast and/or brightness on the pj or the vp? If there is a difference, I'm all ears as to what it could be. |
It could certainly make a BIG difference. One component will likely have a better granularity in it's ability to adjust (probably the higher quality component). The higher quality component may also perform the contrast adjustment in a way that gives better results. Just because both controls are called "Contrast" doesn't mean they were implemented the same way in the electronics. I would use the controls in the PJ and zero out the others.
| bubsnews wrote: | | I am confused as to how best to set contrast initially before doing calibration. When reading through the guide, it advises to adjust contrast upwards until you get a ftL reading within the range of 12 - 16ftL. Well, when I tried that, anything above contrast +7 resulted in no increase in ftL. That is how I came to select contrast +7 as a starting point. The max ftL reading I could obtain was a bit over 13, with the contrast set at +7. |
So what's wrong with 13? In a dark theater 13 ftL will be really tough on your eyes.
| bubsnews wrote: | | I made a comment that, if the contrast setting is the initial setting that all other settings are based off of during this calibration, perhaps there should be a more definitive way to set contrast initially. It didn't seem right to me to base this entire calibration sequence on an arbitrary starting point. |
I have read in several places it's true that, yes, brightness has an absolute setting...black. But white does not (I think you can read a similar statement in the help file on the AVIA disk). White can be as bright as the video chain will allow it. The real issue is, for a given viewing environment, does 100 IRE make you squint? If it hurts your eyes then it's too bright! Don't think of it like "hit and miss". Think of it more in terms of what looks good. Of course you don't want to crush whites and you don't want to over-amp the imaging capability of your projector but beyond that it's really about what looks good.
Think of it in terms of audio. There are certain audio systems that have good "imaging". How do you measure that? I don't think you do...it's just what sounds good.
_________________ MAIN THEATER: (JVC RS2000; Yamaha UDP-LX500; Yamaha RX-V2400; Lumagen Radiance Pro, Vertex)
SECOND WII-ATER: (BG808; WII; Oppo 971H; Moome external box; BG-DVI transcoder; tse gamma box; Extron)
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