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How do you do greyscale?
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 7:46 pm    Post subject:

tommo2 wrote:
Hey KAL,
dont forget about including G2 setup before any grayscale calibration.


I was wondering about this with regards to the Marquee's. I think using Tim Martins mothod of doing grey scale by eye first
would be a good starting point for marquee owners. Then use HCFR to fine tune it to perfection.


WTS wrote:
Interesting how different your settings are. Are you pointing the probe at the projector or at the screen? I used the AVS BR test disc with the HCFR probe pointed at the screen, it was about 3/4" from the screen at an angle, I tried to attach at jpg pic of it but it is too big.


I have read some point it at the projector having the probe shadow in the 10% window using the diffuser . I guess the best way is to try it both ways from different distances from screen and projector. It may take a few times to find the right method. I tried it both ways and found I got alot more foot lambets reading it facing the Projector about 1/3 the way from the screen to Projector.


Athanasios

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WTS



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
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Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 7:49 pm    Post subject:

Yes of course you'll higher lum readings but then you don't take any colour shifting/tinting that the screen might cause/add into the grayscale calibration. I think I prefer to point at the screen just for that reason.

Kal, I find it odd and unlikely that your R and G cutoffs end up being the same.

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tommo2



Joined: 03 Jun 2006
Posts: 226
Location: Ireland

Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 7:54 pm    Post subject:

Of course you will get more foot lamberts facing the projector, especially going nearer to it. When we look at a screen we are interested in measuring the reflected light from it. This is what we see when we look at the screen.

We couldnt give a toss what light intensity is hitting the screen. The picture we see is what is reflected off the screen. Hence we measure the reflected light from the screen.
This only really applies to front projection, as with LCD and plasma we do see the light intensity emitted.

I think this is why kal says to set the HCFR to lcd.

Hope this makes sense, and I have grasped this right.

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kal
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Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 18114
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 2:19 am    Post subject:

Nashou66 wrote:
Ok I found some infor on the Display2LT probe from EYE ONE. I am waiting for some specific answers about the planar surface thing. But it does have to be calibrated : Apparently it needs to be put into a black box with not light comming in and an offset calibration needs to take place from the set up menu in HCFR for the probe.

So I read some of the stuff there and it seems overly confusing (having to put the thing in a black box first to calibrate it??). I'm not going to include the Eye-One in my recommendations in the writeup since I don't have one to play with and don't ever intend to so I don't want someone to get stuck not knowing what to do. The results wouldn't be any different anyway between the two sensors.

WTS wrote:
Interesting how different your settings are. Are you pointing the probe at the projector or at the screen? I used the AVS BR test disc with the HCFR probe pointed at the screen, it was about 3/4" from the screen at an angle, I tried to attach at jpg pic of it but it is too big.

Thanks for sending in your chc file! I changed the forum settings here so that .chc files can now be uploaded without people having to rename them or ZIP them. (We'll probably get a lot of them in the nexts few months). Smile

As for the sensor orientation, I pointed at the screen and was angled slightly up, a couple of inches or so from the screen. So pretty much exactly like you.

Quote:
What cal file did you use, I used the NEC XG file, last time I used the NEC PG6 file, not if one is better than the other, although I will say the cal I just did does look very good.

The cal file only contains primary information on a specific projector so that when you measure your own primaries you can see how you compare to the 'stock' values for that model of projector. It does absolutely nothing for the regular greyscale readings. You didn't measure your primaries anyway (based on the chc file you uploaded) so it doesn't matter what you use. Though the 6PG wouldn't have exactly the same primaries as ours as it has tinted HD144/145 lenses and different tubes (different phosphor) than our HD215 lenses and tubes.

I only care to compare my measured primaries to whatever the HD (Rec709) or SD (Rec601) perfect primaries are anyway. Who cares how close we are to a 'stock' Zenith 1200?

BTW, your average gamma value seems a bit high (you're average is 2.46 instead of the target 2.22). If you look at the luminance graph you're consistently underneath the perfect luminance curve - exactly like what I get and explain in my procedure when I turn off the RTC2200 gamma boost. To me this makes the dark details not be visible enough and washed out. By adding in the RTC2200 back in I get all that perfect shadow detail back. Just something you may want to try - you're using an EXT-HD so it's easy to do. Crank the gamma up about 1/2 way and re-measure the grayscale and check the luminance graph. You'll likely be very close to te perfect curve.

WTS wrote:
Kal, I find it odd and unlikely that your R and G cutoffs end up being the same.

That's where they ended up... I used quite a bit of the special "midlight" red control (only on higher end Barco's) to tame a red hump I had so that may explain why it's a bit different. Every projector is different I suppose! My final graph looks good and flat and more importantly, the greyscale windows actually LOOK grey. I use my eyes a lot of confirm what I'm seeing before I adjust. I got pretty good at looking at the screen and guessing where the R/G/B levels would end up before the sensor gave me the numbers.

tommo2 wrote:
dont forget about including G2 setup before any grayscale calibration.

Nope - I won't forget. I won't have an actual G2 setup procedure for every single CRT projector of course - it'll just be a one-liner to remind people to do it and try and do it so that all the tubes cut off at the same time for 0 IRE.

Kal

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garyfritz



Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 12088
Location: Fort Collins, CO

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 2:46 am    Post subject:

kal wrote:
Thanks for sending in your chc file! I changed the forum settings here so that .chc files can now be uploaded without people having to rename them or ZIP them. (We'll probably get a lot of them in the nexts few months). Smile

You might want a separate calibration forum...

Quote:
The cal file only contains primary information on a specific projector so that when you measure your own primaries you can see how you compare to the 'stock' values for that model of projector. It does absolutely nothing for the regular greyscale readings.

Oh is THAT what it's for!! I wondered. OK, I'll compare to the PG just for grins, but I won't worry about having a cal file.

Gary
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kal
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Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 18114
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 1:10 pm    Post subject:

garyfritz wrote:
kal wrote:
Thanks for sending in your chc file! I changed the forum settings here so that .chc files can now be uploaded without people having to rename them or ZIP them. (We'll probably get a lot of them in the nexts few months). Smile

You might want a separate calibration forum...

Yup. Once I complete it, this guide will be the first sticky thread in our new calibration forum. The new forum will cover all forms of calibration (both audio & video)

Kal

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WTS



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 1276
Location: Calgary

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 4:55 pm    Post subject:

Hi Kal,

I forgot you're using a Spyder probe which doesn't require a cal file, only if you use the HCFR probe do you need a cal file. My probe is pointed upward slightly trying to get the same ( reverse ) angle as the light from the tubes is hitting the screen with the sensor about 1" away.

As far as the gamma goes, it all depends on who you believe some say 2.2, some say 2.5 and then others say anywhere in between 2.2 - 2.5. There's nothing wrong with my shadow details as far as I can see.
So changing what will bring the gamma curve down?
Actually my brightness setting was 55 not 47 like I noted. I noticed your ftl luminace are way higher than what mine are, yet your contrast is only 5 clicks higher than mine and I have a 1.5 gain screen and you have a 1 gain screen, or is your screen gain higher. Again it might be the probe factor too.

It's actually hard to compare our data because we're using different probes, I doubt even the same model probes would give the same results on the same projector let alone different pjs, unless of course you're using $1k+ probes. Would be nice if theses probes came with calibration curves so you could compensate for their short comings.

I learned not to trust my eyes for the proper settings after I got my first Minolta analyzer and saw how far out it really was.

I wish there was a fine gain/bias control on these 1200's because I find that one click either way can change the readings in the continuos mode more than I like.

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kal
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Joined: 06 Mar 2006
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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 1:45 am    Post subject:

WTS wrote:
As far as the gamma goes, it all depends on who you believe some say 2.2, some say 2.5 and then others say anywhere in between 2.2 - 2.5. There's nothing wrong with my shadow details as far as I can see. So changing what will bring the gamma curve down?

Sure - it's a personal preference. But I've always found that anyone that's tried it, never chose to not go with at least a little more gamma boost. To add more gamma (ie: bring the gamma value down), you need to add a gamma boost - if you're still using Moome's EXT-HD simply turn the gamma pot. Try about 1/2 way and remeasure the greyscale to redo the luminance graph & get an average gamma

Quote:
I noticed your ftl luminace are way higher than what mine are, yet your contrast is only 5 clicks higher than mine and I have a 1.5 gain screen and you have a 1 gain screen, or is your screen gain higher. Again it might be the probe factor too.

The probe should not make a difference. There may be very suble difference between probes but this Spyder2 thjat I have gave me the same readings on other projectors I've tried it on where the people used different probes. If they were all very different it would be somewhat useless.

You have to use the 10% windowed pattern to measure ftL output. If you're still using full screen patterns that's the reason. I get 13.8 ftL with 10% windowed patterns at 100 IRE but only around 6-7 ftL with a full screen 100 IRE pattern.

As well, my average gains are bit higher than yours and my contrast is a bit higher. I also use the Blue gamma boost option in the Zenith 1200 service menu (default is off) so that'll boost light output too.

I looked at your HCFR file again and I don't understand how you got your luminance values! At 100 your Y value is only 1.17 or 0.32 ftL! Something weird going on there.

Quote:
It's actually hard to compare our data because we're using different probes, I doubt even the same model probes would give the same results on the same projector let alone different pjs, unless of course you're using $1k+ probes. Would be nice if theses probes came with calibration curves so you could compensate for their short comings.

They're all pretty close. People over at AVS are getting pretty consistent results with different probes. You don't need a $1K probe to get fairly consistent readings.

Quote:
I wish there was a fine gain/bias control on these 1200's because I find that one click either way can change the readings in the continuos mode more than I like.

I agree. I also wish that it would display both values on screen without us having to modify them first by clicking up or down! Frustrating.

Kal

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perisoft



Joined: 29 Aug 2007
Posts: 2920
Location: Ithaca, NY

Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 2:50 am    Post subject:

Quote:
You don't need a $1K probe to get fairly consistent readings.



"Send out a probe!"

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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 3:10 am    Post subject:

An update with the Eye One Display 2 LT, It works very well, have been playing around with the diffusor on and off and get very similar readings both ways, as long as you make sure in the setting you select either useing or not using the diffusor. Kal the calibration is easy, i just put it down on a flat surface like the area next to my track pad on my Mac book and click calibrate, takes a split second. I did a trial run and was getting very high blue valeus for anything lower than 5o IRE then realized i was boosting gamma in my lumagen so i need to make another pass , too lazy to do it right now. But HCFR is very cool, like your barcos i wish the Marquees had more steps in the adjustments for G2 and drive. I wonder if the newer software versions have that fine control. But once i get the PJ levels set as best I can, on to the color gamut controls of the lumagen for super fine tuning.

Athanasios

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WTS



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 1276
Location: Calgary

Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 4:40 am    Post subject:

Kal,

Don't forget that with either Moome's or Kim's gamma circuits, when you increase the gamma you're also increasing the contrast by a large amount. Are you compensating for this? Your contrast is actually alot higher than you think if you have the gamma on Moome's unit set about half way. Actually I have modified the unit I have to bypass the gamma circuit completely at the moment.

I was using 10% windows, I used the AVS BR disc.

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kal
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Joined: 06 Mar 2006
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Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7

Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 3:27 pm    Post subject:

WTS wrote:
Don't forget that with either Moome's or Kim's gamma circuits, when you increase the gamma you're also increasing the contrast by a large amount. Are you compensating for this? Your contrast is actually alot higher than you think if you have the gamma on Moome's unit set about half way.

You're right - the actual light output is combination of almost a dozen or more factors. This is why I rely on what the sensor tells me in terms of ftL output. Nothing else really matters - it's the end result of light output that matters. My target is around 12-14 ftL. That's what everyone should be trying to achieve. I get around 13.5 with the way I have my contrast, gains, gamma, etc set currently. I can easily do 8 ftL too but the image is a lot less lifelike.

Kal

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garyfritz



Joined: 08 Apr 2006
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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 4:09 pm    Post subject:

The worrisome thing about the gamma circuits is that you can't just counterbalance it by lowering contrast. They're increasing the Vpp in the video signal, and there is a limit (different on every model of projector) of how much the video input circuits can take without overdriving. If the input circuit saturates, lowering the contrast won't help. Even if you're not showing artifacts of overdrive (in my projectors the colors "bleed" to the right of intense areas), you're not working in the designed range for the circuit and I suspect that could cause problems.

That may be the biggest advantage of the voltage-output adjustment in Moome's new box, assuming it lets you *lower* the output voltage enough to counteract the gamma boost.
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WTS



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 1276
Location: Calgary

Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 6:31 pm    Post subject:

HI Gary,

I did scope the output of a prototype version and if I remember correctly I do beleive that at full gamma there was just barely enough cut to get it close enough to.7vpp to be good. You still need a scope to set it up correctly, don't just rely on "if I turn this one up this many turns then I should turn this one down that many turns" kind of setup.

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WTS



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 11:19 pm    Post subject:

Here's another HCFR file I did last night. I took the HCFR probe out of the plastic case it was in because the holes for the sensor weren't drilled directly over the sensors so it might have been some internal reflected light scatter, not sure if it really made much difference.


cine8-april20-08.chc
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 Filename:  cine8-april20-08.chc
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kal
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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 12:10 am    Post subject:

Looks pretty good Walter. Your gamma's a tiny bit lower now (2.37 average instead of 2.46). Do you notice any extra shadow detail?
I still don't understand what your Y (luminance) measurements mean.... according to your numbers you're getting 1.897 ftL at 100 IRE which is definitely not right!

Kal

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WTS



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 12:30 am    Post subject:

Hi Kal,

Never really had any time to watch much last night after I finished playing with it, had to watch Calgary kick San Jose first before I played with it.

I have no idea why the luminance is so low a reading. Unless your contrast is in torch mode and mine is in flashlight mode, but mine has plenty of punch to it. I guess I'll have to ask the HCFR guys why that is.

Some of the other reading don't match either, if you look at the RGB levels graph and the RGB levels on the Free measures they don't match either. When I do the greyscale setup using the continuos mode the RGB levels are basically on top of each other from 20 to 100, sometimes you only see one colour because the other 2 are buried under it it's so close. But you look at the RGB levels graph and it shows that they're off mostly the blue, which isn't really the case. So now I go well which one is correct, I say the continous measure is correct because it's realtime compared to a snapshot, but that's my guess.

Well goit the Moome board back today so I'll play with and set the gamma up, I think you said your's was at about half, that's a good enough starting point. And of course I'll scope it to set the 100ire level to 0.7vpp after I set the gamma up. Then I'll run another greyscale setup.

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timf



Joined: 07 Jul 2007
Posts: 102
Location: Adelaide South Australia

Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 11:37 pm    Post subject:

Kal,

Are you far off posting that sticky? Busting my a$$ to give this a shot Smile
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kal
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Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 12:25 am    Post subject:

I was working on it again today, wordsmithing a lot. I'm working on it again tonight. I'd really like to get it done in the next 2-3 days to get it out of the way.

Kal

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timf



Joined: 07 Jul 2007
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Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 12:28 am    Post subject:

You are a true legend Wink
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