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Marquee Modifications and Performance Enhancement
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Ohmess



Joined: 11 Sep 2008
Posts: 242
Location: Vienna, VA


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 3:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Thanks. The resistors check out ok. Swapping the TL084 back in is the next step.
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radar



Joined: 05 Dec 2007
Posts: 72
Location: Sydney, Australia


PostLink    Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With regard to the fan mod, as I understand it, the original LVPS fans runs at 12v in standby and 24v when tubes are on. The m3/min = 0.95.... but I'm not sure if thats the maximum airflow. If it is, what is the m3/min when in standby?

With the mod that nashou66 deploys, the fan runs at 12v.... do you run this at full power in both standby AND when tubes are on? or do you slow down the fan in standby?

I'm thinking another alternative is:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Noctua-NF-B9-92mm-1600RPM-Fan_W0QQitemZ300274588514QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Components?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116

Where the airflow is 1.07 m3/min at max (and this is 17.6dba).
With ULNA switch: Airflow is 0.68 m3/min (and this is 7.9dba)

So, my idea is when 24v is detected, run the fan at max. When the pj goes to standby, then trigger the fan to run at ULNA.

What do you think?

If you like the idea.... anyone interested in creating a circuit diagram to make all this happen?
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16170
Location: West Seneca NY


PostLink    Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You really don't need to get that fancy. higer speed fans make more noise air turbulence wise The fans I used run the same speed all the time and when in stand by you can barely hear them. I have to be right next to it to hear them. I think the air flow is 46 cfm for those enermax enobal bearing fans, which is a bit more than the stock fans. they are really quite. And i was going to make a second power supply for each fan, but its been fine for two years now. I think a big help was cutting out the grill on the outlet side.I think the belly fans are more noisy, but those are more critical and need more attention for airflow. Isolating those belly fans from the case does more to quite them than new fans. I had a modded set of belly fans in one PJ and then did my other PJ with original fans and just sound dampening and it is actually more quite than the new lower db fans.

EDIT: I just looked at the specs on those fans you linked and they show the static pressure also, the higher the better but at lower speeds so those have a very low static pressure of .64mm H2o not very good for the lowest speed, I look for ones that are above 1.5mm h2o static pressure. Even thoguh it has 41 cfm for the lowest speed the static pressure isnt as good as mine for about the same cfm. I had data on mine but cant find it anymore, but as some will tell you data means nothing with out real world testing so the only way you can really tell is to try different fans and spend some money doing so, or take others experience and use that.

Athanasios

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"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

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Ohmess



Joined: 11 Sep 2008
Posts: 242
Location: Vienna, VA


PostLink    Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nashou66 wrote:
Hi Ohmess, I have no idea what happened, although i have not changed out those op amps, U2 is part of the focus section and U701 and U901 are for the vertical yokes. It has to be in those. Id change them back to the originals and see what happens, you should have done one chip at a time so you could see what happens after!!! U901 is part of the Green and Blue and U701 is for the red section. Change out one and see if that changes anything.

R46 is in the U12 circuit now that i am looking at it more closely , it could have caused something to short out that Chip. Change that one first. You may have to check some parts after that op amp now, R49, Q3, R77 and Q2.

Athanasios


Hey Athanasios -- I shifted to other things for a bit and have come back to my VDM. I tried replacing U12 first, and got a picture that was worse than before. I went back over various bits, and found both Q2 and Q3 need to be replaced.

So, I could use some (more) help. Q2 is a "2N7000 TMOS SS 60V .2A". Is this the proper replacement part:

http://www.mouser.com:80/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=0dwsXDNhqlyINFLGqOxObw%3d%3d


Also, Q3 is a "TIS42 30V .05A FET" according to the schematics I have. This appears to be an obsolete part:

http://www.mouser.com:80/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=vLkC5FC1VN9CJLpejkZlFQ%3d%3d

Can you help me locate the proper part to replace Q3?

Thanks a ton.
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16170
Location: West Seneca NY


PostLink    Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

check this out for Q3:
http://www.newark.com/58K2816/semiconductors-discretes/product.us0?sku=fairchild-semiconductor-2n5638&_requestid=253172

Athanassios

_________________
Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher


"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

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Ohmess



Joined: 11 Sep 2008
Posts: 242
Location: Vienna, VA


PostLink    Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool. Thanks. I'm getting there. My HVPS, Neck boards, HDM, and Convergence board are done; and once I get the fried stuff replaced on my VDM, that too will be done.

Another question: Whist taking a break from my VDM, I attacked my LVPS, which leads me to my next question. What did you use to replace C126? It is a 1000uF 16V Aluminum Electrolytic. I ordered the list of parts you recommended (and have everything else done), and it is not clear to me which one is to be used for C126.
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16170
Location: West Seneca NY


PostLink    Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I up'ed the Value to this:

Newark# 04M9018
PANASONIC EEUFM1E222L
Description: CAPACITOR, RADIAL 25V 2200UF
Series: FM



Nashou

_________________
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"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

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Ohmess



Joined: 11 Sep 2008
Posts: 242
Location: Vienna, VA


PostLink    Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still more questions. In the portion of this thread dealing with the Focus board, you state that you added inductors to your VIM and CLM. I found the CLM upgrade, but did not find the explanation of the VIM inductors. Where did you add those?

Are you going to be doing a VIM section?
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16170
Location: West Seneca NY


PostLink    Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have not done the Vim upgrades yet to the better boards only to the older 2005-03p Vim, I also had an issue with the HV shut down during high frequency content, I was diagnosing if it was the Vim or the VNB and during the testing i shorted something on the VIm out then later discovered it was the VNB possibly causing an OVER-I Issue, swapping the VNB had the issue follow. During the testing I found that the voltage drop on the VNB from the same Inductors used on the CLM cause a voltage drop on the vim that could possible cause spotkill. But now that the Vim is out of commission i can not say for sure if that voltage drop or the OVER-I incorrect readings were causing the HV shutdown. So I need to do some testing of the Inductors on one of the newer Vims(2035-0x-p). I think the Inductors I had may not have had enough current draw capabilities and may have caused the issue. The voltage drop I think was enough to cause the HV shut down but by me shorting something out on the Vim I am not able to confirm this till i either repair the Vim or mod
my other 2005-03p Vim in the same manner, but that Vim I am testing the THS3201 op amps(almost have them working, red not working).

And yes I will do the Vim section but i want to finish my work on the older vims as my test bed, i now they are different
but not really by that much for the main video chain. the newer boards consolidated a lot of separate op amps to either
quad op amps or dual. and not only in the video path but in other places,and they added some tech bulletins to the new boards.
Other than that I think they look the same but i am not an EE so i could be totally wrong.Looking at the schematics for the video
path they are not that different schematic wise but board wise they do differ a lot, so this board design change could be the major
improvement as the board itself can act as a limiting component in the design.

I noticed earlier you said you did the HDM also, I just did mine as well but have not done the write up yet, but its straight forward as the rest of the cap mods on this thread.

Now stating that i have the HDM cap upgrades done there were some things I wanted to get an opinion on from some here more knowledgeable than I. Going back to the CVA board we changed some of those Mickey mouse resistors ,as Mike Parker calls them,near the output amps. I noticed that near the output amps on the HDM near the heat sink there are some small resistors that feed the fets just like in the CVA and am wondering if replacing these would also be of any benefit for stability to the horizontal scan circuits. Mike if your following this could you comment?

Athanasios

_________________
Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher


"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

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Ohmess



Joined: 11 Sep 2008
Posts: 242
Location: Vienna, VA


PostLink    Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 12:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks man. Keep us posted. I finished my LVPS today; so I'm pretty pumped.
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16170
Location: West Seneca NY


PostLink    Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 11:58 pm    Post subject: Horizontal Deflection Board capacitor upgrade Reply with quote

Horizontal Deflection Board capacitor upgrade. This is just a general Capacitor upgrade
of all electrolytic Caps and if you want to add the WIMA film cap upgrades as well.
Once Again I used the Panasonic FC and FM series caps when i could find similar values, if
not I looked for a cap with higher ripple current specs. There are also some film capacitors
that you could upgrade to WIMA brand caps As my one Board has these on them I assume
from the factory, the seller told me it was from an Ultra PJ.

NOTE: there are 6 "width tuning coils" on this board that are fragile and can break easy.
Be carful when working on this board as to not break them. If you do Curt has a good way to
repair them, Find a slightly larger heat shrink wrap and put it around the coil and hold it in place
while heat shrinking it around the broken coil. If you want you can do this before working on the
board for added protection. I just kept that side of the board off the edge on my
bench while working on the under side.


First remove the plastic screw in the center of the small Daughter board on top of the
main HDM board.

Plastic screw in center of board



Remove Daughter board



Removed Board



First I changed out the three larger caps 2 220uf 35v caps and a 100uf 50v.
once again if there is room up the voltage value i went to 50v caps for all three.



Dont forget the small 22uf cap on this board also



Now on to the main Board. Up on the right hand corner of the board is a single electrolytic
of 10uf 50v I went with the same value, the other two caps may differ on your board some are
like the pic and others have an axial small cap for C1. C3 is in series with the H-Drive signal and could be
changed out to a Wima same value. On C1 my board has it with a 2.2uf film cap and i have an
older board here with a 100nf ceramic. you could up that cap to the same as my supposed
Ultra's HDM's 2.2uf film. I would think a nice stable drive supply and H-drive signal would improve
stability.

Three caps in question, electrolytic replaced



Next are the 6 3300uf 6.3v caps, these are for the centering circuit
same value up to 10v, any higher voltage are larger and may not fit.

6 old caps



4 of the new caps in place, see how much larger the 10v's are !!!



Dont forget the 22uf cap as well !!



All 6 in place from another view



Here are the Wima caps that were already on my board.



Some more near the heat sink(ones in back)
Also see how they are lifted up on one end, the Wimas and the
6.8nf Ero's, they have small ferrite beads on one leg of there pins, if your do not have them
i'd add them like the pics. I have seen packs of these at radio shack, small hollow cylinders.




Next are C32 and C29, these couple a +/- 3 v live from Transformer T1, they feed
U11 that has some duties with centering, its on the other side of the board
near the 6 3300uf caps .

C29 and C32,these will be removed and replaced with same value
but higher voltage.




Next is C50 from the Mike Parker Marquee Maintenance Thread
this couples the +85 volt rail that feeds Transformer T2 which puts out
a few different voltages/signals. Consequentially this helps hold width
of the ratser steady from his comments and others. If your having a maximizing
of width issue this may help. Some older board have 100v caps up them to 160,
Mine looks like it was already done but I still changed it with a panasonic EEUED2C221.


C50 location(new 100uf caps in background)



Also the high voltage cap I changed out , it was a 47uf 385v I went to a 400v
it was same hight but much smaller a shown in this Pic.




There are some more electrolitic caps of 22uf and one 47 uf that are under the
daughter board that need changing also. With these you need to leave some lead space
so you can bend them down out of the way of the daughter board when it is replaced.

Also don't forget to solder some points on the board according to Mikes Thread.

Solder all these points (pics from Advanced Procedures section )





Don't forget to clean the board afterwards!!!!

Then put it all back together, remember to test between each cap section change!!!!

Now I was looking at the board and the Schematics and there are some areas that have small resistors
like the ones on the CVA and VDN that may also be exposed to varying temperatures and may
drift in value as a result. These are near the heat sink and are in series to the output fets/amps
on the heat sink ,R3,R2 and R8 they are 22 ohm and small in size a larger resistor may help with any drift here.
Also there are three 2.2 ohm resistors for three smaller gates/fets Q3,5,7 R13,R1 and R4 These may
also get hot and drift. Any one think changing these might help? I might try them when i get a
chance, the heat sink needs to be removed and this may be a good time to clean the isolation strip
and lube it with Petroleum jelly like the Rear heat sinks and then gibe the amps a good coating of
heat sink compound as well. I am not sure about these resistors as they do get a direct blast of colling
air from the belly fans. It may worth a try. Anyone who does so it be great to hear what the
results are.

Athanasios

_________________
Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher


"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

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HK-Steve



Joined: 15 Jul 2006
Posts: 849
Location: Switzerland

TV/Projector: Marquee 9500, Epson 8100


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Athanasios,
Now that you have finished the HDM and have tested it,

No go and take the HDM Daughter board off again,
Remove the chip sockets for U525, U528
and solder them directly to the board.

No issues with the chips creeping out of the sockets, thus more reliable, and less resistance to each chip leg.




Cheers
Steve
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16170
Location: West Seneca NY


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HK-Steve wrote:
Athanasios,
Now that you have finished the HDM and have tested it,

No go and take the HDM Daughter board off again,
Remove the chip sockets for U525, U528
and solder them directly to the board.

No issues with the chips creeping out of the sockets, thus more reliable, and less resistance to each chip leg.




Cheers
Steve


Great idea and I was wondering why i have one board slodered in chip and one not. I noticed this n a CLM I have here as well, all chips are soldered except U35 and U16.

Athanasios

_________________
Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher


"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

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Ohmess



Joined: 11 Sep 2008
Posts: 242
Location: Vienna, VA


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you post pictures when you do this please. I haven't pulled my daughter board and looked, but I am not quite clear on how to remove chip sockets. thx.
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16170
Location: West Seneca NY


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its just pins that go through, remove them and add the chip back its the same pin spread as the socket.

Athanasios

_________________
Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher


"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

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draganm



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8818
Location: Colorado


PostLink    Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PaulB wrote:
Did you get the 1.2ohms - them suckers are big!!!



Fitting them all on to the CVA is gonna be fun.........., not! Pretty sure its only 24 of the 1.2ohms that need to be fitted though - even thats bad enough.
Hey guys, just wanted to mention I found a local electronics surplus place that has 1.2ohm wire-wound precision resistors in 1/4 watt size and they're cheap. I bought 100 of them for 5 bucks. They're the same size as the half ohm above in center of pic and a lot easier to fit than the big Blue 1.2 Half-watter. Also, I was paying Mouser like 60 cents each for those, ouch.
If anyone wants some let me know and I'll probly go back and buy the remaining inventory.
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16170
Location: West Seneca NY


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For those who can not do these mods themselves Draganm is offering these mods at a vary fair price. So if you have 10 thumbs Dragnm is the guy for you.
I appreciate those who have asked me to do the work but I have no time for these as my other projects take precedence.

here is the link for the Mods:

Marquee HD Mods by Draganm

Athanasios

_________________
Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher


"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

One Smart Dog!!!

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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16170
Location: West Seneca NY


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Over 22,000 views!! Cool Very Happy

Maybe this winter I'll get back to some research and try some different things after I test them out.

Nashou

_________________
Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher


"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

One Smart Dog!!!

Marquee High Performance Bellows now shipping!!
Marquee Modifications and Performance Enhancement
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1031



Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 657
Location: Finland


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nashou66 wrote:
Over 22,000 views!! Cool Very Happy

Maybe this winter I'll get back to some research and try some different things after I test them out.

Nashou

I have also few ideas (have to found more time to develope those "things" little more) And if those works out, i can post those here too.

_________________
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16170
Location: West Seneca NY


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1031 wrote:
Nashou66 wrote:
Over 22,000 views!! Cool Very Happy

Maybe this winter I'll get back to some research and try some different things after I test them out.

Nashou

I have also few ideas (have to found more time to develope those "things" little more) And if those works out, i can post those here too.


Cool ! Thumbs Up Thumbs Up its been too long since we corroborated. Now if we can get HK Steve to add some tid bits Wink


Athanasios

_________________
Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher


"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

One Smart Dog!!!

Marquee High Performance Bellows now shipping!!
Marquee Modifications and Performance Enhancement
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