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DIY Wilsonart ongoing disaster.
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lyd




Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 390
Location: Lake Mills, Wi


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Today is glue-on-the-laminate day. I'll post pics of the transitional steps in a few days to that URL I linked above, but this is the current state of the thing:



The hardboard is glued to the aluminum, trimmed off flush, a few screws around the edges for good measure, joints sanded flat, joints and screw holes filled and then sanded flat again, and the whole thing scuffed up for good key with the contact cement.

It would be freaking awesome job if the whole thing was actually flat, which it isn't. The long pieces of aluminum are slightly bowed out of true, resulting in a very slight concavity relative to the screen face. A secondary effect of that is a slight hump in the center, across the horizontal supports, because the concave bow makes the edges lower than the center there.

These are extremely minor variances, the hump in the center is not visible at all, you can only just feel it when running your hand over the surface, and the concave bow is only perceivable when sighting carefully down the edge, but it is still disheartening. I think the bending occurred because of the way I was working on the frame, up on supports. I thought the square aluminum tube would be more resistant to that sort of deformation, so I didn't take appropriate care in supporting it while I was screwing the brackets in. I just held it in one hand while screwing with the other.

I just hope it will be usable. If there is one thing I can say no question at this point, and treat all the I-told-you-so's as read here, it is that the 2x4 frame and 2 panels of 1/2" MDF are a much better way to go, if you can get over the weight issue.

If I had a better place to work I could have pulled this off, but big sheets of mdf would be a lot more forgiving.

lyd
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lyd




Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 390
Location: Lake Mills, Wi


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, it's done, for good or ill.



I plan to construct a nice border later, but it seemed to need something now, and I had some old hockey tape lying around that perfectly matched the extra inch I left in the screen itself, so...



That's that. Now I just need help hanging it. With that last application of material, the laminate itself, it became too heavy for me to easily manage alone.

lyd
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Mr. Green




Joined: 23 Feb 2007
Posts: 1394
Location: Calgary

TV/Projector: Marquee 9501LC / NEC 9PG+


PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 1:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, what an ordeal! Sorry, it hasn't gone well. Hopefully your latest attempt will work well enough. I wanted to do the wilsonart screen as well, but I need a pull down. I'm too cheap for the motorized screen, but I was thinking (still just thinking at this point) that this screen would do it for me...

http://www.eastporters.com/estore/cart.php?target=product&product_id=111&category_id=33 Much cheaper.

Yes it's 4:3 format, but at 120" diagonal if I want 16:9, I just don't pull it down as far. Then I'll just have a piece of blackout material I can stretch across for the top border (or use a couple velcro tabs to hold it up). If I want 4:3 format, then I get a really big screen.

I did have a thought... Could you screw a 1/2" thick sheet of MDF to the wall, then use contact cement to put the laminate on?

OR...

screw a 2 x 4 horizontally to the wall where the bottom of the screen will be (to keep the screen perfectly verticle). Then do the same at the top but cut a 45 degree into it to create a hook. The picture should explain a little more clearly. I've seen commercial cabinets installed this way. That way you bond the laminate to the MDF while it's on the floor, then get a friend to help you hook it into place.

Just an idea in case your latest attempt fails. My way would cost almost nothing to do. Just MDF and 2X4's. Hopefully your laminate will survive if you remove it again.



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screen idea.JPG



_________________
You can be young only once but, you can be immature forever.

Current Projector Marquee9501LC with PS3 (BLu-Ray) at 1080P LOVE IT! Screen is an Elunevision 120" 4:3 (2.4 gain - no hotspots). (also own a NEC 9PG+)
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lyd




Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 390
Location: Lake Mills, Wi


PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 2:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr. Green wrote:
Just an idea in case your latest attempt fails. My way would cost almost nothing to do. Just MDF and 2X4's. Hopefully your laminate will survive if you remove it again.


I doubt this laminate will survive anything else. It is glued on at this point.

I need multiple panels of MDF for my screen size, at least as I can find it around here. I've seen people talk about larger, but I haven't seen it yet.

If I had to do it again, I would use 1/2" mdf with a 2x4 frame, basically the design posted earlier by crabby:



I don't know if I want to do it again with laminate, though. Next one will be made with commercial screen material, I think. This sheet of laminate has a small flaw, a manufacturing defect of some sort, about 6" down from the top and nearly dead center horizontally. I didn't see it until after the fist cut, and HD wouldn't take it back. I can live with it for now, it is only about 1mm by .5mm, just a little dark spot, but I will want to replace the whole screen eventually.

lyd
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Joust




Joined: 05 May 2006
Posts: 2431
Location: Almonte, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Marquee 8501LC


PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 3:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you can get MDF 5'x10' at least I can in Canada.
thats why I suggested that earlier in this post.
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lyd




Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 390
Location: Lake Mills, Wi


PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 3:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joust wrote:
you can get MDF 5'x10' at least I can in Canada.
thats why I suggested that earlier in this post.


Well, that's ok, I couldn't get a 5' x 10' sheet of material up the stairs into my apartment, anyway. Wink

lyd
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Joust




Joined: 05 May 2006
Posts: 2431
Location: Almonte, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Marquee 8501LC


PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 3:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

so can you see your seems?
It looks good in the pictures but the CCD is not as critical as the human eye.
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lyd




Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 390
Location: Lake Mills, Wi


PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 3:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joust wrote:
so can you see your seems?
It looks good in the pictures but the CCD is not as critical as the human eye.


No, definately can not see any seams, screws, or anything else. That surface was flawless after filling and sanding.

Unfortunately, I have some other issues, as described above.

It should do me until I figure out what the heck I am doing with the projector, though, at least. When I can set it up precisely enough that those very slight screen geometry problems start to be an issue, I'll know it's time to look for an alternative.

lyd
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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26690
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G


PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad to see you finished it. Good looking aluminium frame. Hope this works for you. (this time) Thumbs Up

I was thinking 1/4 plywood as a substrate to keep things lite but then I had to work with some recently and it wouldn't lay flat. It always warps. IT would have to be nailed to 2x3's at a bare minimum.

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ecrabb
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Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 15909
Location: Utah

TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010


PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 6:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr. Green wrote:
screw a 2 x 4 horizontally to the wall where the bottom of the screen will be (to keep the screen perfectly verticle). Then do the same at the top but cut a 45 degree into it to create a hook. The picture should explain a little more clearly. I've seen commercial cabinets installed this way. That way you bond the laminate to the MDF while it's on the floor, then get a friend to help you hook it into place.

I didn't go into detail in my earlier post, but what you just described at the top is exactly the method I used. It's called a "French cleat". The method works beautifully for any larger or heavier objects - and worked perfectly for my huge and HEAVY screen assembly.

SC
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GEBrown




Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 729
Location: Denver


PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lyd wrote:
. . . This sheet of laminate has a small flaw, a manufacturing defect of some sort, about 6" down from the top and nearly dead center horizontally. I didn't see it until after the fist cut, and HD wouldn't take it back. I can live with it for now, it is only about 1mm by .5mm, just a little dark spot, but I will want to replace the whole screen eventually.

lyd


I believe you said early on that your screen is 96"x54", which means the seating distance is out around 115"-125" (1.2 - 1.3 x screen width).

I doubt that you would even be able to discern a .5mm x 1mm speck at that distance.

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lyd




Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 390
Location: Lake Mills, Wi


PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 10:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GEBrown wrote:
lyd wrote:
. . . This sheet of laminate has a small flaw, a manufacturing defect of some sort, about 6" down from the top and nearly dead center horizontally. I didn't see it until after the fist cut, and HD wouldn't take it back. I can live with it for now, it is only about 1mm by .5mm, just a little dark spot, but I will want to replace the whole screen eventually.

lyd


I believe you said early on that your screen is 96"x54", which means the seating distance is out around 115"-125" (1.2 - 1.3 x screen width).

I doubt that you would even be able to discern a .5mm x 1mm speck at that distance.


Well, you know how it is. I will probably see it, at least in light scenes, because I know it is there. I can certainly see it plainly from seating distance with the room lit up normally. No one else will likely ever notice it at all.

lyd
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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26690
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G


PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep you can't un-know it's there.
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Mr. Green




Joined: 23 Feb 2007
Posts: 1394
Location: Calgary

TV/Projector: Marquee 9501LC / NEC 9PG+


PostLink    Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'll see it... unfortunately. I have a one (just one) dead pixel near the centre of my plasma TV. Unless there's a lot of movement in what I'm watching, I can always see it and I'm 2.5 times the screen width away from it. It's almost enough to drive you mad.
_________________
You can be young only once but, you can be immature forever.

Current Projector Marquee9501LC with PS3 (BLu-Ray) at 1080P LOVE IT! Screen is an Elunevision 120" 4:3 (2.4 gain - no hotspots). (also own a NEC 9PG+)
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lyd




Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 390
Location: Lake Mills, Wi


PostLink    Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 3:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went ahead and hung it myself anyway.



Part two of the construction pics, hastily assembled and sparsely annotated, are here. If you want to start from the beginning you can go here.

Thanks to all for the suggestions. Now I can get down to the real business of setting up the projector. At least until the next screen build.

lyd
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PiRho




Joined: 24 Nov 2007
Posts: 4
Location: Lake Stevens, WA


PostLink    Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 3:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I feel the pain on getting the screen just right.
I went a bit overboard with a 60"x104" screen area plus a 2" black border using 1/2" MDF as a backer.
Largest mdf available locally was 4x8 sheets. Bought three, using one in the center as a flat reference,
then gluing and screwing the other two from the back so the seam between them was right down the middle.
Perfect. Barely had to sand the joint.
To make sure the bond to the screen material went well, I primed the MDF surface before putting down the
contact cement. I used 5x10' white parkland plastics material for the screen.
The size and weight were almost too much, it took four people to hang it. I used a steel hook system similar
to the wood mounts mentioned before.
In the end, it was a very flat, very nice screen.
I was sad to sell that house. I've heard from friends that they still enjoy the system I built.
Good news is I'm a homeowner again and am figuring how to fit a theatre into the new place.
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garyfritz




Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 12026
Location: Fort Collins, CO


PostLink    Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lyd, would a carefully-applied tiny spot of white paint cover the flaw well enough so you don't notice it from the viewing position? Probably wouldn't match the DW perfectly, but better than the spot does....
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lyd




Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 390
Location: Lake Mills, Wi


PostLink    Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 3:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

garyfritz wrote:
Lyd, would a carefully-applied tiny spot of white paint cover the flaw well enough so you don't notice it from the viewing position? Probably wouldn't match the DW perfectly, but better than the spot does....


Yeah, it might. I have considered it, but I'm not going to bother with it until I have the projector set up and determine whether the other problems with the screen will make the spot seem minor by comparison.

lyd
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Spanky Ham




Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 5643
Location: Comedy Central


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 4:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why didn't you just paint a screen on the wall?
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lyd




Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 390
Location: Lake Mills, Wi


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The wall is not anything close to flat, as you can see by all the shimming required for the screen hanger. It's old plaster, and there are numerous bulges, sags and other oddities.

lyd
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